Lazy Days

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So the ride to Plett was a long hot one. We had a rental car - I was driving with Mike and Chapala - and it was a blistering hot kind of day. Sun coming in, sweat pouring down. We left at 10am, stopped a few times for drinks and snacks and made it to Plett by 5pm. In the meantime we looked at all the scenery on the garden route, lots of beaches and such, and had some good conversation. They were both great to talk to. When we got to Plett, I called Susie to let her know I was in. Susie works at the zoo in Boston where I was zookeeping - we somehow hadn't met but she stayed in touch when she found out about my trip. She's in South Africa visiting her fiancee Louis and they have very kindly offered me a place to stay. So she met me at the car, helped carry my things up to her apartment, showed me to my beautiful room in her beautiful apartment, and we had a good chat before my internet addiction kicked in. Ended up making some yummy pasta dinner - well, Susie made it while I showered the sweat from the car ride off. We had to bake it and couldn't get the oven on, so we went to Louis' work to ask him how and still couldn't manage. Thank God for microwaves.

Friday was a nice relaxing day, a theme that was to follow for many days. Susie and I walked down to the beach from the apartment. On the walk there, I actually ran into someone I knew! What are the chances? His name is Daniel and I met him in the Cape Town hostel I was staying at. After a bit of a chat we went on our way and met Louis at the beach where I met Chaz, an ex-pat friend of his. Then we met up with Morne, another of Louis’ friends and the four of us played Frisbee for a while before swimming. First time I’ve been in the ocean in a while. It was cold at first but eventually felt great. Afterwards we came back to the apartment, showered, and after a bit more relaxing, we started getting ready for friends and fun - there was a dinner and poker night happening at our place. People eventually started arriving around 7pm - Rocky and Maritjie (Marikee), Droopy, Nick, and Morne. The main course was a squid that Droopy brought (professional fisherman) and Rocky and Louis cooked up. Maritjie and Susie made the salad and helped out while Nick and I just sat about chatting. He’s also from Boston and is here volunteering, as Susie had done previously, at Rocky’s place. The dinner turned out amazing and afterwards the boys got down to the poker while those of us not parting with our money settled out on the patio to chat. Maritjie turned out to be a lot of fun to talk to and has one of the best South African accents I have heard yet. Ended the night around 2am while the poker continued until 3am.

Saturday we got up and headed out to the Farmer’s market for a look around and some breakfast. I had a wonderful bacon and egg sandwich and bought some chocolate-covered orange fudge. The weather had turned cloudy and gotten colder, so we didn’t stay long. Came back to the apartment to do some more nothing for a while. I can’t tell you how wonderful this was. For the last three months I have mostly been living in dorms with shared bathrooms, with absolutely no privacy and constantly running around trying to see everything I can before moving on to the next site. Here I have my own room, my own bathroom (where I can actually leave my toiletries instead of lugging them to the bathroom every single time), and the time to absolutely relax. It was about this time that I realized that although I had two weeks to see South Africa before my overland tour began, I would in all likelihood not be leaving Plett before I went back to Cape Town. Susie and Louis were so wonderful to let me stay with them and had so many good ideas of things we could do to fill up the time in this area that it seemed silly to me to run around trying to see more. For dinner they made a really nice chicken stew type meal and then we watched more tv than I have sent these last three months - some really bad movies followed by one of the original pink panther movies. Classic.

Sunday we had plans so we got up early and headed out to pick up Nick at Rocky Road (Rocky’s volunteer place). On the way there, Louis remembered that he had forgotten his driver’s license, so we turned around to get it. Good thing we did. On the next go around we were pulled over at a traffic road block. Initially it was because the car (which we were borrowing from Morne) had a front license plate that was hanging down a bit. But once we were pulled over, the cop looked very thoroughly at the car, giving us quite a shake down, literally. He bounced up and down on at least three corners of the car, checking the shocks apparently, as well as kicking the tires. He eventually took Louis to the little tent he had set up, grabbed a preformed ticket, and modified it enough to fit the bill. We got ticketed because the car, although licensed, didn’t display the license tag in the window. This fine was 300 rand, or about $50. We finally got on our way, got Nick, and after a brief tour of Rocky Road, proceeded to Monkey Land. Rocky has connections there and we were able to go for free. It is a primate sanctuary with an enormous chunk of land where nine of the twelve species roam free. Many of the species are actually from South America, but they also had Gibbons and lemurs. We actually saw baby ring-tailed lemurs that were less than a week old! This, coupled with the fact that only 8% of their forests are in tact, has totally inspired me to go to Madagascar (the only place in the world where lemurs are found) following my overland tour. That was my original plan, though I thought I might change it due to financial considerations. Next we went to Birds of Eden, which is the largest free flight aviary in the world, and connected to Monkey Land. Kind of lost on four non-birders, but we did see some amazing birds. We were going to try to see the Elephant Sanctuary, but it seems Rocky may be able to hook us up on a different early morning day. Instead we got some sandwich fixings and went back to Rocky Road to eat. Afterwards we said good-bye to Nick and along the drive home, we stopped at the beach where my happy couple fell in love.  We walked around a bit, but it was another cloudy and cool day, so we eventually went back to the apartment, where we had chicken dinner leftovers. We then went for a movie rental, which took us at least an hour to make a decision. We ended up with Shallow Grave, a disturbing movie, and Secondhand Lions, which turned out to be a far bigger hit than we thought.

Monday we decided to be active and do a hike around Robberg Peninsula. This hike is apparently better (easier) on a cooler day, but of course we chose the first hot day since I came to Plett. We went anyway and it was hard, but beautiful. It’s a nature reserve with three main trails, all part of the same loop. You can walk for 45 min, 2 hours, or 4 hours. Of course, being tough, we decided to do the four hour hike. On the very first uphill portion of the walk, I thought it was over for me. I was so hot and sweaty and having a hard time that I thought I wouldn’t be able to finish in the four hours - and we were somewhat time constricted as Louis had to be to work after the hike. But I rested a bit and my body got used to the conditions. The hike itself was very pretty - almost always looking out at the ocean, and for a while we could even watch the seals swimming around in the water below us. We got to a portion of the hike where it looked like we would have to turn around - we had to walk down to the beach and hike along near the water, but it was high tide and we weren’t sure that we could make it. We saw another couple coming from below and asked them about it - they said they had gone down but had to come back up for just this reason. I was relieved that we weren’t too far down yet so that getting back up would be a bit easier. But Louis, with all his masculine sureness, thought we would be able to find a way. And find a way we did. Turns out that the couple was dead wrong - must have been tourists. We were perfectly able to go that way, with a little care - I mean, there was a skull and crossbones on that part of our map, but I’m sure it was just friendly warning. In the end, we did the hike in three hours, exactly. Somehow we shaved an hour off, despite the heat. We stopped at the beach for a cool down swim, but today the water was definitely too cold to get it. Sat around for a bit and then headed back home where I had a nice shower and then Susie and I went out for some fish and chips and to spy in on Louis while he was at work. Came back and…. relaxed. When Louis came home we discussed plans for the next day, which somehow involved me bungee jumping. I said I would sleep on it and see how it went in the morning.

Tuesday I woke up and decided hell no, what was I thinking? How could I bungee jump off a perfectly good bridge? So when Susie and Louis woke up I told them no, today is not a bungee kind of day. They were not planning to jump anyway, so we called ahead to find out about going to the Elephant Sanctuary and were able to work out a free trip there instead. The elephants were amazing. The sanctuary has six African elephants, which have free roam in an enormous area. We got to interact with three of them. We had a guide who taught us a lot about the elephants and each elephant had a handler who worked with it. When elephants travel together, they walk in a line, each holding the tail of the one in front with its truck. We were able to walk the elephants around in this manner, with our right hands curled around behind us as our tails, walking with the elephants truck in our hand. It was a really nice (and wet) experience. Afterwards we were each given a one on one lesson with the elephants by the handlers - they told us all about the elephants and we were able to touch them as we walked around, learning about them. Although my zookeeping experience told me that free contact with elephants is not the best way to do things, it was an overall wonderful experience.

After the elephant sanctuary, we went to Rocky Road and picked up Nick to see if he was interested in bungee jumping that day. Somehow it seemed ok paired up with the elephants. Nick was in so we headed out to the bridge. I was the original one who mentioned bungee jumping when I first arrived, and now I wonder why. Probably because Plett has the world’s highest bungee jump, and if you’re going to do something, it’s always nice to do it big. So all of a sudden I found myself putting on a harness, standing on a scale, having my weight written for everyone to see on my hand (thankfully it was in kilograms so it meant nothing to me), paying over the big bucks and walking with a group of others onto this enormous bridge. The length that we walked was 216 meters - about 650 feet. This was also the same distance I would be falling off the ground as I hurled towards the ground. And believe me, looking down into the gorge, that is a long way to go indeed. I spent a very long time wondering if I could actually do it, thinking I couldn’t possibly, watching others do it. I could see them get to the edge, get ready, and go over. Then I could turn around and watch their fall on the Tv. Every time it was completely insane. I was so relieved when I found out that I would be going second to last, and Nick would be last. I have absolutely no problem waiting - I’m not the get it over with quick type. Eventually it was my turn. They put padding around my ankles, tied a piece of webbing between them, connected another safety piece of webbing to my harness. Then I was being connected to the bungee cord itself. From there it is all a blur. Luckily they give you no time to think - it all happens so fast. They have you stand up, lean on the two guys who hop you over to the edge (your feet are tied together), have your toes dangling over the edge, count to five and let go of you. They don’t push you over but you just go anyway. I never would have been able to do it on my own. You are supposed to look up as long as possible, keep your arms wide open and give yourself a bit of a boost off the ledge as you lean over. None of that stuff even entered my mind. All I can tell you is that at some point in the fall I realized my eyes were closed and made myself open them. It was the scariest thing I have ever done. I thought once I was off the bridge it would be easy. It was scarier than I ever imagined the whole way down - and up again - and down again. It was four seconds of free fall and four seconds more down with the stretch in the rope before coming back up again. The very scariest time was when I had come back up, just before falling the second time. It was such a weird disorienting feeling. They made a video and after seeing it I think I realized why - my head came up over my feet when I bounced back up the first time. I don’t think this happened to anyone else. Anyway, it was bizarre and weird and good but I doubt I will ever do that again. Once I stopped bouncing I brought myself into a sitting position and waited for the guy who was coming down for me to hoist me back up onto the bridge. We chatted on the way up and then I was on the bridge again, being photographed and untied from the bungee. It was all surreal. Nick was up next and I gave him a hug and wished him good luck. His jump went well. Afterwards we went into the shop, picked up our certificates for having jumped and bought our pictures but not the video - it is VHS and a different format than I can watch at home. I am going to check to see if it can be converted easily to DVD or not. I would love to have the video.

Once we dropped Nick off and got back to town it was 4pm and I was starving. We all had a quick bite to eat and then Susie and I went grocery shopping while Louis got ready for work. Came back and had a quiet night at home, making pasta, chatting about boys, and playing chess. We played one game in three hours - and I eventually won. But it was close.

Wednesday was a lazy day. Louis had to work all day, and Susie and I sat around for a bit and then eventually got it together. Checked out the library and some shops and then bought some groceries for the dinner party we would be having with some of Louis’ friends. We did some of the prep work but once Louis got home he took over. We were having burritos and wraps and Louis had all kinds of foods and flavors to dazzle the senses. Friends began to show up - Jeremy and Melissa, Jarrett and Liesje, and Tim - while Louis made all the tortillas by hand. Everyone was really nice and we had a good time - and a dinner invite to Jarrett and Liesje for the next week. Good night overall.

Thursday Louis, Susie and I went to Nature’s Valley, part of Tsitsicama National Park. We had a nice day with some sandwiches and books on a beautiful beach. Went swimming after some initial yelps - I am always so bad getting into “cold” water, and for me, it is all cold. Afterwards we came back and Nick stopped by for a bit. We ended up playing a game of chess (I won) and when he left, I played Susie (and won).  I like chess - thanks Mike, for teaching me how to play while we were in Peru. Afterwards we made some leftover burritos and watched Wet Hot American Summer. I am reminded why many people world over think all Americans are easy. But it was funny. After the movie I packed up for a weekend away at the Afrikaans festival. (See next blog)

Sunday was a lazy day for us. Around 1pm we almost started to get going once Louis suggested a braai (bbq) on the beach. Susie and Louis went to get groceries and when they got back Louis shot out of the house as the rest of us slackers proceeded to get ready for the day. We left around 2pm and headed for fun and the sun. It took a bit of time for Nick, Susie, and I to find Louis, but once we did we had a nice braai. Then we went and sat on the beach for an hour or so before packing it in. The boys made a potato bake and the girls made brownies for dessert. We rented Hero and Mean Girls and sat around watching movies til late.

Monday we got up hoping for a good day so that we could go Kloofing. Kloofing is best summed up as a hike down into a gorge filled with water, and then navigating those pools with a combination of swimming and hiking. We were hoping for hot sunny weather to keep us warm in the cold water. We got up and the weather was good so we headed out to Knysna, the closest town to the spot we were going. Took a while to drive there, and then we had to hike down to the bottom of the gorge to the water. It was me, Susie, Louis, and Nick. The hike down was rather steep and somewhat slippery. After sunscreen application, we hid the few things we had carried down under some rocks and bushes and then everyone else proceeded to get in the water while I looked on in fear. I am the worst person I’ve ever met for getting into cold water. It usually takes me tons of time just staring at the water and then slowly getting in, inch by inch. This happens every summer when I visit my grandmother at the lake in Wisconsin - it never gets any easier. Anyway, one by one they were in and shouting encouragements at me. Eventually I was able to do it, with Louis waiting behind and looking on. It was very cold. But it did get a bit easier for awhile. The sun was out by wasn’t high enough to reach us in our gorge so we got pretty cold pretty quickly. Luckily (for me) Nick got too cold and had to sit out in the sun once we reached a sunny site and I sat with him while the others went on a bit further. When they came back we headed back to the starting site, and this time around it was far harder to get in the water and stay there than even I anticipated. We made it back and had some lunch on the rocks, trying to heat up in the sun. Even though we didn’t get as far as we would have liked and we were all a bit cold (my toes were numb), I’m really glad we went. It was such a beautiful place and very relaxing with no one else around. While we were swimming we could look up the gorge and the rocks were amazing, and the trees and plants growing were beautiful, with big roots hanging down. After lunch we started the hike back up to the car. Being the slowest one uphill by far (of anyone I’ve ever met), Nick offered to carry my bag for me, which was a great help. You’d think with all the exercise I’ve gotten on this trip that things like walking uphill would get easier. You could think that but you’d be wrong. Got back to the car and headed back to the apartment reading my exciting novel. Once back I showered and continued reading while everyone else took a nap. Nick got up around 4:30 as he had to catch a ride back to Rocky Road at 5pm. We chatted and said good-bye in case we didn’t meet again. Played some chess with Susie in the evening (I won but man she sets it up well) and then we headed out to have dinner with Jarrett and Liesje at their house. They have a nice piece of land, a great new house, and two big dogs and a beautiful cat. Robert, who I had met at the festival, was there as well. Dinner was a lovely chicken and rice meal, with fabulous Belgian chocolates for dessert (Liesje is from Belgium). Afterwards we sat around chatting and looking at photos of their wedding and Jarrett’s trip to Namibia a few years ago. It was a nice evening.

Tuesday was unfortunately just a day for me to wash clothes, repack, and get organized. Thought about getting a pedicure but decided against the expense. Whatever happened to Jenn’s feet you might be asking yourself. Well, while I went to visit the falls in Argentina, my big toenail did finally come off to reveal a little nub-like nail beginning to grow in. Not nearly as horrible as I thought it might be. The toe next to that one was, however, a purple color under the nail (ever since my trekking in Chile) and remained that way until my first day swimming in the ocean in Plett. After that the purple was gone, revealing the fact that this nail too was dead and would be coming off as well. What are the chances?? Otherwise the feet are doing well, thanks for asking. No more blisters, no more cracked heels. Yee haw. In the evening I watched The Sound of Music for the first time ever.

I just want to add a special thank you to Susie and Louis. They have been so kind in inviting me to stay with them and going out of their way to show me around. I have had such a wonderful and needed break from the day to day packing up and moving on and rushing about that travel always brings on. And this just before I begin two months of overland tour in which I will be moving all the time whether I like it or not. I have had some much needed rest these last two weeks. And all this kindness without even having met me first. Not to mention all the fun we had. Thank you so much guys. I know these words can’t possibly explain how I feel. Good luck with your upcoming wedding plans and I look forward to meeting you again in Boston. (Also, all non-bungee pics for this blog and Oudtshoorn are Louis and Susie's doing - thanks again!)

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Photos

She's nervous
Will she be able to take the plunge?

Tan line
I took my watch off for this - check out the tan line!

Back up
This is how they get your crazy butt back on the bridge you never should have left.

And she made it!
This was me landing back on the bridge.

This man kept me alive.
Thank you!

Nick'e nervous too
or just pretending

Off he goes!
like a birdie

Walking in a line
Me, Susie, and Louis walking our elephants.

Me and my new friend
Bonding, can't you tell?

Howler Monkey
This is the only howler at Monkey Land, but we're hoping he will get a friend eventually...

Louis the chef
Louis cooking calamari all spicy while Droopy looks on.

Rocky the chef
Rocky made more calamari in the kitchen with Maritjie looking on.

Comments

[Darcey]

INSANE!
You are absolutely insane for jumping off that bridge! 650 feet??? You couldn't PAY me enough to do that! I'll admire you forever, jen! :)