Markets are endlessly entertaining - at the mysteriously labyrinthine market in Vilankulo, we met the Tupperware boys. We told them that we were looking for Tupperware that didn't open easily to ensure that our food would not spill out. Then ensued the dramatic demonstration, wrapping fingertips under the round lids, square lids, blue lids, green lids, gritting teeth, flexing muscles, straining faces, demonstrating just how impossible it was to remove these lids. In Montepuez, the underpants next to the soybean oil, George W. Bush wallets sold by men wearing Osama Bin Laden and Saddam Hussein shirts, bike parts in the garlic aisle, irresistible heaps of red kidneys and green lentils, yellow maize and white sorghum. And everywhere perfect little piles of dried fish. In the Central Market of Maputo, the soul of the city, we passed
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