Marrakesh

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Don't go to Marrakesh. It's full of lying, swindling, pestering, annoying people who spend their time trying to rip you off, sell you stuff you don't want or misdirect you (to their shop). The most annoying example was when we knew where we were and where we were going, but someone wanted to 'help'. We told him we didn't need help, we knew where we were, and went the other way. He followed us, and tried to persuade us to go his way instead. Eventually we let him take us there, much to our annoyance, but then of course he wanted money for 'helping' us. We refused, and as our mothers might read this we can't quote what he said.

We arrived in the heat of the middle of the day, after a long bus journey from Telouet with spectacular views of the red desert rock and lush oases, as we wound down the mountain passes.

We stayed in the lovely Tainam Riad. There was a refreshing little pool to cool off in, in the central courtyard, with banana trees round it. After hiding from the afternoon heat, we set out for the main square which, according to the Rough Guide is "the most wonderful city square in the world". We beg to differ. A nasty man put monkeys on Heather's head, and then wanted us to pay about £10 for the privilege! And it was just a larger version of other Moroccan city squares.

We found a lovely Spanish fish restaurant, Puerto Banus, serving very much what we might have eaten in England, but that was what we needed (the tagines and couscous weren't growing on us!). And there was a very good singer-guitarist serenading the diners.

We "did" the sights the next day. First the Jewish cemetery, then the 'El Badi' palace and Saadian tombs both of which belonged to the dynasty that ruled Morocco 1554-1669. We went to the Glaoui palace too, which the Rough Guide said should have been turned into a museum by now, but is in fact still officially closed to the public. Very luckily a bored caretaker took delight in showing us his treasures, and enjoyed all our "oohs" and "ahs". This was a highlight. Finally we visited some exciting (according to Heather), ancient toilets, the only surviving architecture built under the Almoravids (1062-1145).

As we left the city, we had to go through the Ville Nouvelle to the train station. It's much smarter and more Western than the rest of the town, and we might have liked to explore it a bit more. The overnight train to Tangiers was remarkably comfortable with the windows open, and we slept better than we have in some air-conditioned hotels.

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