Jenks & Jane on the Road to Morocco Days 1 and 2

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If you were to ask a patriotic Welsh couple what they would do on St David's Day (patron saint of Wales), how many would answer that they would flee the country???
Well that's what we did and our excuse was that we wanted (as in we REALLY wanted) to get some SUN; having been deprived of the same for so long we've forgotten what it's looks like. And so it was that on 1st March Jane and I boarded the Marrakech Express: otherwise known as Ryan Air flight FR8218 from Bristol. And I was wearing my daffodil lapel badge.
The flight went really well. It wasn't full so the seating was reasonably comfortable and best of all the flight took only three hours. As we left Bristol at 13.30 we arrived at Marrakech's sparkling new airport at 16.30 local time, which is conveniently in the same time zone as UK. Even better: the sun was shining and the temperature was a balmy 23C, AND our suitcases were the first and third bags coming off the carousel in the baggage claim, AND the taxi that had been reserved was waiting for us. So we were whisked from plane to our hotel virtually without stopping; an excellent way to start a vacation in the sun.
Our hotel (actually a guest house with only four rooms) is called the Riad Dar Balthazar and our suite – basicially is long wide corridor with the bed at the far end and a wardrobe, wash basin, shower cubicle and toilet on the way to the door. For some reason the room/suite has Chinese theme with a large tapestry of some Chinese god or demon above the bed and various Chinese ornaments dotted around. If you would like a conducted tour then go to Booking.com and enter Riad Dar Balthazar – our suite is called the Gaspard Suite and is the one with purple furnishings.
The Riad is inside the old walled city of Marrakech, known as the Medina, and it's about 150 meters from the nearest thoroughfare which means that you have to walk to get to it. Most of the Medina is off limits to cars as it's comprised mostly of narrow lanes, which would be fun if only motorbikes and bicycles were banned. Later, using the hotel provided map, we navigated our way through the lanes and souks (markets) to the Djemma el Fna (translated as The Place of the Dead but known as The Big Square) which is the heart of the Old City and we had dinner at one of the stalls; as recommended in our guide book. The square was certainly buzzing and there were thousands of people there, tourists and locals, buying, selling, eating, performing, watching. Lots of noise, music and action; all very vibrant. Afterwards we walked back to the hotel along one of the main thoroughfares rather than retracing our route through the souks, and as there was no bar, television or even much light to read by we were in bed by 9.30.
The next day, Wednesday, we walked to the Majorelle Gardens which had been Yves St Laurent's residence in Marrakech and which is now a museum to him. Getting there involved navigating the lanes of the Medina, while avoiding being hit by the motorbikes, then crossing some main streets in the Nouvelle Ville. The traffic in Marrakech could charitably be described as frenetic but more realistically as completely insane: and certainly something to be very, very wary of. The Majorelle was very pleasant, an oasis of peace in a loud city. The gardens are well maintained and although the house remains off limits there's a little museum in the gardens which brilliantly showcases some of St Laurent's designs. This was followed by coffee in the cafe then off to the Manara Gardens on the other side of Marrakech. Fortunately the taxi driver wasn't too outrageous with his fare demand, unlike the drivers outside the Marjorelle Garden about whom the guide book had warned us against using. The Manara Gardens are basically a large park with a lake in the middle and an ancient pavilion. There should have been a great view of the Atlas Mountains which rise just east of Marrakech but it was too hazy. Nevertheless it was quite pleasant if a little chilly on account of a cool wind off the mountains.
Feeling rather hungry we headed to the Djemma el Fna for lunch. The first taxi driver asked a ludicrous price for the journey and so we took another taxi for one third of the rate asked for by the first joker – and even the one third rate was apparently quite generous we discovered later.
Lunch was in a tiny scruffy restaurant recommended by the guide book. Good food and great value. Then we headed back through the narrow lanes of the souks in the Medina to our hotel; having accepted directions from a helpful schoolgirl who then demanded £8 for her efforts and got £1.60 (fancy her trying it on with one of Cardiganshire's finest. I was almost insulted).
After a refreshing coffee at our hotel we headed off to a nearby travel agent to book a trip up into the mountains for Thursday.
Then back to the hotel for a sit down and coffee. Then back through the lanes and lunatic motor cyclists of the Medina to the Djemma el Fna for dinner. This was again at one of the food stalls in the square that are erected after dark. You sit under an awning, on bench seats (along with a dozen or so of your closest Moroccan or tourist friends) and select from the menu. Jane had chicken couscous, a local speciality and I had prawns, salad and chips. With soft drinks the bill was £8. Very tasty.
Then back through the souks, much quieter by then (8.45pm), to the hotel. A quiet sit down in the very comfortable lounge - to finish off this blog. And so to bed. Off to the mountains of the High Atlas tomorrow.

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Photos

Road to Riad Dar Balthazar
The lane leading from the nearest road to our hotel

Grand Entrance
The front door of the Riad

Courtyard
The central courtyard of the Riad. The courtyard would normally be open to the sky but here they have put a plastic sheet over the open area at roof level with a plastic pipe trailing down from the middle of the sheet to take away any rain water. This sheet acts as an excellent insulator and the courtyard is very warm and cozy. The plastic sheet is removed in the summer months otherwise the courtyard would be too hot..

Majorelle Gardens
Tranquility Base Marrakech

Majorelle Gardens
Yves St Laurent's Studio, now a museum and gift shop

Menara Gardens
View from the pavilion towards the (invisible) High Atlas Mountains

Souk Scene
On the way through the souks of the Medina. Note the motor cyclist

Souk Scene
With a very colourful local all dressed up