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Africa » Morocco » Marrakech-Tensift-El Haouz » Marrakech
January 25th 2010
Published: February 7th 2010
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Right now I am sitting on the rooftop terrace of my riad enjoying the hot sun and cool breeze. It is 345 PM and I have just returned from exploring. I didnt see many official sites but walked many miles and soaked it all up. I think I may need a front end alignment since I obviously pull to the right and end up back where I started. Tried to make my way through the souks but ended up going circular. The travails of travel day seem eons behind me.

Arrived at my riad a little after 2AM with a wet bag full of damp clothes and very very tired. SO happy to see my driver with my name on a sign at the airport (being 9 hours late). Was driven to the edge of the main market square in the medina where we waited for a riad employee to collect me. There are no roads in the medina. My riad is a three storey building with a rooftop terrace. Main floor has rooms, reception area, office built around central courtyard with a small pool and orange trees. Second Floor rooms, around the central courtyard; Very small qnd functional rooms, no central heat but serviceable and picturesque. Must admit to a few moments of doubt last night but after a shower and sleep the world looked much brighter. This place is indeed delightful and I feel very happy to have found it and taken the chance. Morocco is a bit hit and miss here in that regard, and surprisingly pricey, but I have again successfully found clean bright and secure at one of the lowest prices I came across. (And right now I am hearing beautiful operatic aria over the rooftops).

A word or two about Marrakesh. The centrl square is tourist central and a bit of a three ring circus as a result. I had been warned and heard much about persistent and aggressive touts and scams so was very alert to this particularly as a woman travlling alone. Many horror stories about harrassment of women, intimidation etc. But I can tell you that my experience has been anything but that. This might be due to the fact that i chosenot to spend much time in the square but went exploring down the laneways through the souks. Or my age😊. On the other hand; you would be pretty vulnerable if indeed you zere to be harrasssed there. Everyone has demonstrated the utmost kindness and even sellers will smile gracefully if you say you will come back later instead of simply saying no thanks ( which makes them take it up a notch). I ate lunch overlooking the square (a veggie tagine) around 2PM and things were heating up with acrobats passing the hat, beggars out in droves so one last explore in the opposite direction and I am now home munching apricots and figs; and drinking water.

Which reminds me of a story that reinforces my experience here so far. Down a small laneway I came across a store selling some small things including water.I buy a large bottle and the total charge is 6dirham (10 drham is 1.30 CDN 100 dirham is 13.90 CDN). I did not have enough coin, and only had a 100 DHM note that I thought would be problematic, but I was wrong. He took the note, hollered for his little brother and sent him off with that note to look for change. Which he eventually did find from various sources in the neighbourhood it seems. He counted out 94 DHM change and gave me a huge smile. What to do but offer 4DHM tip for their effort. This, from a store thqt did not have change for the equivalent of 13 dollars in the till, and a very-wealthy-by-comparison tourist standing in front of them. A woman tourist, by herself, who has to put on her glasses to read the coinage....

Although I was beginning to think Morocco did not want me to visit, I have now changed my mind. The challenges of travelling simply have made this place a more delightful surprise. Even though I seemed to raise eyebrozs at immigration when my declaration form confirmed that my last name today is the same as the last name I had when I was a young girl😊. I will do an entire entry at some point on how I got here....many frustrating moments immediately followed by crazy cultural observations. Stay tuned for that, but for now know that I am safe, healthy, happy and enjoying Marrakesh very very much. There is a perpetual grin on my face....I am sure that will come and go over the next days😊
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For the benefit of other travellers, I will add information on where I stayed or other travel tips that I found useful. These will be added to the last entry in each country for ease of reference and hopefully will be useful to others researching a trip.


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