Biking and Birding Morocco 2022 - Tizi 'n Test and return to Marrakech


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Published: April 9th 2022
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I was really looking forward to cycling through the Atlas Mountains and I wasn't disappointed. The road to Taraoudant was flat. I was cycling parrallel to the mountain range. Sunlight reflecting of snow capped peaks. After Taraoudant with the road signs counting down the distance to Marrakech I really felt like I was on the last leg of this trip. Then came the last left turn and I turned to face the mountains. The climb started of quite gently and I made decent progress. It was only after the village where I stopped for coffee that the gradients really got steeper and I got more tired. There was no accommodation in the village so I pressed on. The shop keeper did offer me accommodation in the living quarters behind the shop, but it seemed I'd be depriving someone else of their room.

There was only a couple of hours light left and I had about 10 km and a lot of climbing ahead. A driver stopped and gave me some oranges. It was very kind of him and they proved to be delicious. I was looking for camping options, but the only level land was the road itself. Higher up I chatted to a man outside a restaurant. He said there was camping by the hotel. I pressed on. About 15 minutes later he pulled up beside me in a little van. He insisted I accept the lift, in a nice way. I knew he was right. Turns out he owned the hotel. I was very glad he knew the road, it was a terrifying drive even so and he was a good driver. The last six kilometres of the road was pot holed and narrower that the part below. I would never have got here before dark.

It was cold as the sun sank so I was glad to accept a room at the hotel. It was very reasonably priced. There wasn't much power in the shower though. I suppose getting water at 2000m up is an issue. I was also treated to coffee and a huge plate of shortbread like biscuits for breakfast, even though I was room only.

The pass was a little higher up than the hotel. I was delighted to get there, but as I explained to the owner of the hotel, I now have to return and actually cycle the whole way up!


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These wee shops were brilliant. They seemed to spring up just when I needed something.


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