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Published: December 29th 2009
Prior to our departure Fitch and I watched U2's video, Magnificent, as we tried to envision what Morocco would be like.... Thoughts and ideas swirled in our heads as we researched riads (traditional houses built around gardens with no external windows) and dars (traditional houses with an internal courtyard). We opted for riads in both Fes and Marrakesh, not knowing what to expect beyond some reviews we read online.
Our experiences thus far have exceeded our expectations! We were greeted warmly at the Casablanca airport by our driver Hassani, who has proven to be an awesome driver as well as a resource for all things Morocco. In addition to his impressive driving skills, we learned purely by chance, that Hassani had been Bono's private driver (along with his two bodyguards) for both of his trips to Fes. In fact, earlier today Hassani took Chris and I to the riad where Magnificent was filmed! AMAZING! Or I guess I should say, MAGNIFICENT!
Between Casablanca and Fes we stopped in Rabat. Yes indeed, Rabas was in Rabat! Rabat is the
capitol of Morocco and we were fortunate to explore the grounds where the present king resides. I had read it is taboo to discuss politics in Morocco, but apparently since the current king has been in power, people everywhere have openly endorsed him. He has improved conditions for the poor, decreased the presence of polygamy, and promoted equality between women and men. He definitely sounds like an honorable man!
Fes is the world's best preserved medieval city. A labyrinth of winding streets define the souks (markets), hammans (public baths), schools, mosques, bakeries, funduqs (caravanseries), and fountains in the medina. Once again we were fortunate to have a fabulous guide, Hakeem. Hakeem is a native of Fes and he informed us about the rich cultural history while navigating us through the the streets packed with people, as well as the resounding sound of "Balek! Balek!" Balek means WARNING! a donkey is about to pass and you need to move over quickly!
Our time with Hakeem (who wrote a dissertation on sacred music in world religions and gratiously sent us off with four CDs of music) was marked with numerous memorable experiences: the tanneries; the Berber carpet store with mint tea; the ceramics workshop where some of the infamous zellij tiles that create the intricate geometric patterns synonymous with Islamic art are formed; and the most memorable, kindergarteners who shared what they learned and also taught us the arabic alphabet! All memories we will never forget!
Our riad, Riad Numero 9 is marvelous also. Atika has welcomed us, as has Tasch the resident cat. Atika and her sister have made us some superb meals that would make the riad owners proud. We hope Riad 107 in Marrakesh, where we are headed tomorrow via the Atlas mountains, will live up to the high expectations we now have for riads.
Everywhere we go, we are welcomed with "ssalamu 'lekum" which is an arabic greeting that translates literally as "peace upon you." Farewell is "m'a ssalama" which translated means "with peace." As we are about to embark on a new year and a new decade these arabic greetings seem to succintly convey my wishes to all of you. Peace upon you and with peace! Ssalamu 'lekum & m'a ssalama!
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caroline
non-member comment
Wow
What an awesome adventure! Hope to see more pictures on Facebook soon!