Likoma Island

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Boat to Likoma

I was up early and got one of the workers at the backpackers to escort me (I had to insist) to the village with all the boats. It was a good 20min walk with all my stuff over not the easiest terrain. My leg was seething and it was such a mission to keep the flies out. At the fishing village, he helped me find someone to take me to Likoma at the right price (MK500).

While I was waiting, Immanuel showed up and chatted to me for awhile. He somehow managed to organise to come on the boat as well. I was lucky enough to be on a boat with a nurse who was going to the hospital. She had actually seen me at the clinic the day before. The boat trip took about 45min and it was starting to near 11 before we finally got to the other side. It was hot and I was over the boat ride. I was getting nervous about getting to the hospital by noon. I asked for a lift to the hospital from the nurse, who was getting into a car with a green cross - the local ambulance.

At the hospital it proved slightly difficult to find who and where I should go for my shot. After explaining as much as I could in English, I showed my vaccination book which I had had the clinic fill out the day before indicating what they had given me and what I still needed. The nurse understood and I went to a waiting room while they went to get the injections.

By the time I got the injection and asking how to get to Mango Drift, I had found out enough to know it was far - about an hours walk. So I paid the ambulance driver (who actually acts as a taxi most of the time) to take me to Mango Drift for MK500. It is a rip off for such a short journey but I didn't care at that point.

Hair Braiding

The next day, I woke up fairly early and lay in bed reading for awhile and then headed for breakfast. I worked the menu and managed to get 3 slices of homemade toast with peanut butter and syrup for MK400 (R20) - it was yummy, just what I needed.

I got directions for the hour long walk to town but in the end walked with two of the local ladies from the backpackers going into town. It was quiet a walk but the surrounding areas were breath taking. The hill overlooking the backpackers, the beach and the lake were stunning. We walked over the hill and down the dirt roads which were sparsely decorated with massive baobab trees - quickly becoming one of my favourite trees.

I went to visit the local church and asked if I could see the clock tower. Then just wondered around town. I typed up an email to send but the internet was down. I walked around the market and found a tailor and asked him how much it would cost to fix my tearing pants (MK50) so I got changed into one of his pieces of material that I wound around myself like a local. Apparently I didn't do it right because I got quite a few laughs.

I then found one of the young ladies braiding someone else's hair so I ask how much it would cost to do my hair. I was so surprised when she said MK500 (R25!) that I sat down and got my hair braided. This caused quite a stir and everyone thought it was hilariously funny that a Muzungu was getting her hair braided like a local. Elfie took 2.5 hours to braid my hair. I sat on the cold concrete while playing an animation movie for the local kids off my laptop. They loved it and I enjoyed just soaking up the culture.

Mango Drift

I spent most of my time in my mosquito net on my bed, instead of outside as the flies and mosquitoes kept attacking the hole in my leg. That night I had dinner Becky & Josh and chatted about how they got to the island and where they had been before. We had a new recipe - fish pie - it was delicious. Both Becky & Josh are wonderful hosts who definitely made me feel at home.

I spent a lot of time hanging around at the beach bar/lounge area, just reading and sorting out my photos. I started to get quite homesick at one point. It had been a lonely few days on the island and while that gave me time to reflect, I did miss the social side of backpacking. Also all this worrying over my dog bite was tiring and a tad stressful. Still I was grateful about how things had turned out so far - I had been lucky.

My last afternoon I did spend some time walking along the beach (in both directions) and climbed some of the rocks. Just soaking in the atmosphere and taking a few pictures of my new hairstyle. In the late afternoon I was reading in the bar area when the local barman asked me if I wanted to play Boa board. He taught me the locally famous seed and board game and we actually had quite a few good rounds. He did beat me almost every time.

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