Introduction to Lilongwe

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NOTE: The previous number I gave was actually incorrect (thanks to Mom for pointing that out) - my real cell number in the country is [phone]. Sorry to everyone who is getting currently spammed by my multiple entries in two days, but it’s kind of a busy time for me since I just arrived in the country, so in the future expect closer to once a week or something along that rate.

Lilongwe

Muli bwanji?

It’s my second night in Lilongwe, and I already wouldn’t rather be anywhere else. Life in the capital is surprisingly easy, although it is less urban than downtown Naperville (seriously, there are dirt roads throughout the entire capital, and maybe a two block stretch that we would consider fully ‘developed’. However, the hotel they put me up in has internet, running water, and except for being smaller and a little dirtier than average is quite comfortable.

Upon arriving yesterday, a coworker here was kind enough to pick us up straight from the airport, and drive us around the capital for the afternoon. Within maybe an hour I had a working cell phone, and was already picking up numbers. She also provided a great introduction to the comparatively large ex-pat/NGO community here - or as white people are called, mazungos.

Within a few hours I was already in meetings discussing plans for the next couple weeks, meeting mostly with ex-World Bank workers who are now here on a variety of projects - everything from a Fulbright to a research firm to dissertation research. Last night we all went out to dinner, where I found out that there is a local beer made out of corn (apparently completely disgusting) that I’m going to have to try at some point this summer. My first meal in Lilongwe, Malawi: Chinese - that I wouldn’t have guessed ahead of time.

To describe Lilongwe is rather difficult, and the best way I could try to is this: imagine the smallest capital city you could imagine, spread it out over a few square miles, fill the middle with trees, fields and red dirt roads, and then add a few non working street lights, and you may have the right idea. I think most westerners would consider this place a small farming town unless they realized that it was also the capital, and home to many of the more interesting things in the city.

(To provide a little context for where I’m writing this, I’m in a dimly lit porch on the side of my hotel in the heart of downtown. In reality however, I could be in the middle of a damn jungle considering the complete silence that accompanies most of this city (it shuts down at 6 PM right after sunset), except for the beautiful music/singing coming from the one minaret in Lilongwe. Across the city, at the same time every night, someone feels the urge to project this dull, passionate voice which I’m assuming is guiding Muslims here to prayer, but not completely sure on that point.)

First Day of Work

Also, my first day of work was this morning, and it ended up not being too overtly different from a lot of other office jobs that I’ve had, maybe a little more cramped though. The room that we were in couldn’t have been more than 10 ft x 10 ft, fitting a total of 7 of us at one point. Since there were not enough chairs, I volunteered to sit on the next best thing - two crates of empty Coke bottles stacked on each other that were surprisingly comfortable. Got to love Coke. Despite the cramped feeling, I was very productive, and enjoyed my first day of work.

One thing I’d like to note is how understanding, natural, and in most ways decent the people are here. Rather than being very uptight and taking everything too seriously, the people that I’ve been around and have been working with have been very flexible and easy going, while still obviously very successful. I have to say, it’s a nice break from competitive Ann Arbor.

Boiled Flour

So when people have been asking me what they eat in Malawi, one thing that I’ve always brought up is this ‘boiled flour’ which has a name in Chichewa, but I don’t really know how to spell it so I’ll leave it out for now. Over lunch, L ordered some, and I had a bite - not bad. It’s extremely bland and has almost no nutritional value, but when worst comes to worst, I shouldn’t have any problems with it.

Anyways, I should get going - I’m meeting a couple friends (yes, I’ve made friends already, who’d have thought?) to go to a local bar and watch the Arsenal game in half an hour.

I hope all is well for everyone back home, and for me take some time this week to do something different - go to a restaurant that doesn’t serve food you normally get, or even if you go to the same place you always do, try something different (I’d suggest the barbacoa at Chipotle if you haven’t tried it yet). Try a new beer, Korean food, or even the dim mak sauce at No Thai. You may just find yourself experiencing more than you otherwise would by playing everything safe; and hopefully you’ll find yourself living a bit more.

Tsalani bwino.

~ Jon

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Comments

[madora]

yay for running water!

[Ray Hill]

Well on your way
Jon, as close as I can come to going to a different restaurant is having dinner today with Dianne and Owen, and a young lady from China. But tomorrow we are going to your "old house" and have dinner with your mom and dad, however Uncle Scott is cooking for us and you know what an experience that can be. Stay safe and be careful where you sit, old coke cases are good. Papa