Leaving J-Bay by coach (16 hours, overnight, crap!), I make a detour to Durban to fix my wide angle lens, which I dropped onto tarmac trying to get a photo of a whale's tail at Mossel Bay... all v. annoying! I decide to hire a car to travel up to the Drakensbergs and then east through KwaZulu-Natal and Swaziland to Kruger Park, so I collect Guppy (named in accordance with the Chris and Tracey Parkin car naming rules) from the airport and head north towards Pietermaritzburg and on to Underberg. I'm heading here to travel over the mountains and into Lesotho, a small country totally surrounded by South Africa. I arrive at Sani Lodge, just north of Underberg, in the late afternoon, just as the setting sun is spreading an orange wash over the Southern Drakensbergs,
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