More safari and then back to Nairobi, again

Africa » Kenya » Nairobi Province » Nairobi
March 3rd 2011

Published: March 3rd 2011

Monday – more safari. Our morning game drive was a wake-up call to everyone else. We had neglected to tell everyone how cold it is in the morning as you’re driving across the park, it wasn’t on purpose, but Heather and I had to learn the hard way, so I wasn’t necessarily generous with my info. So most of them weren’t too impressed with the drive. A lot more antelope, zebras, elephants. We saw a hippo crossing the plain from its night spot in the bush back to the river for the day and several hyenas wandering around, looking suspicious and up to no good. The impala kill and leopards were nowhere to be seen. But then we came across a huge troop of baboons (Kristina’s not really a fan of monkeys and apes anymore) and not one, but two black rhinos – a mother/calf pair, although the calf was almost as big as her. We’d only gotten a glimpse of a rhino as the sky was getting dark last time, so I was really impressed with this sighting. They’re so weird and scary looking, yet so calm and peaceful.

After a couple hours, we arrived for our Bush Breakfast at a hippo pond. The food out in the middle of nowhere was so good, better than when we’d eaten at the restaurant. We had champagne and fresh coffee and a full hot breakfast at a beautifully set table while listening to the birds and the hippos snorting from the river below. And the sun was starting to get hot so everyone was warming up and in a much better mood. It was one of the highlights of the trip.

Back to the lodge and we had a few hours of free time. Some when for massages, some lounged in the pool, I had a wonderful nap in my king sized bed. Then we met for a Maasai lecture and dance session. We were the only 8 at this particular one, and the Maasai speaker, Reko, told us so much about how the Maasai culture is set up and maintained. He was so good at explaining everything and we had so many questions. Then a group of 10 or so Maasai warriors came chanting from the bush and did some of their dancing and jumping competition. It was un-nerving to hear this primitive raw chanting coming before you could see them through the trees, even though we knew they were coming and could hear them talking before they started. Most of the dancers only speak their tribal language of Maa, they don’t even speak a lot of Swahili. They got almost everyone up dancing and jumping too, but us white people just can’t jump. I videotaped the whole thing, so my abilities were not put to test, but I was still caught up in the chanting and energy of everything. Such an amazing experience.

Right after this, we went on our next game drive. Again it was a slow start. More antelope antelope antelope, elephants, zebras, and another rhino!! But we all wanted to see some lions, and after driving around for over an hour and a half, I was starting to lose hope. Then all of a sudden, we were just driving down a dirt road, passed a tree, and in its shadow was a young male resting. His mane wasn’t very impressive, but he was only about 5 feet from the jeep, so it was awesome. Finally finding a lion rejuvenated everyone and we were back on the hunt. We came across a couple cheetahs laying in shadows, they’re pretty hard to spot as they’re so lean and lay flat, but then they’ll pop their head up every once in awhile. Then we found 3 more lionesses. Two were so at peace that they didn’t even acknowledge our presence, one was laying on her back with her feet up in the air, completely oblivious to any cares. But there was one on watch, and we watched her as a couple of zebras walked by in the distance. We hoped there might be some action, but it was too hot and late in the day for her to care. Better to just stay in the shade of an acacia tree until you’re really hungry.

So that was the talk of the evening. There’s really nothing to do at the lodge in the evenings, the pool’s closed and there aren’t any other amenities, so we just entertained ourselves and rested.

Tuesday – finally see some real National Geographic. Everyone was more prepared for the morning drive. Whitney hadn’t brought any sweaters or anything, but she snagged the bath robe from her room and we brought a couple big blankets. Problem was that then 3 of us were all snuggled in the back seats and Whitney and I started to doze. All we were seeing was more antelope (found some eland, they’re the biggest of the bunch, and a water buck yesterday) and zebras. It’s really sad to say and hear, but even the giraffes and elephants were getting a bit monotonous. Talk about spoiled. But then we came across one of the most prized sites, not a hunt in action, but 2 lions feeding on a fresh zebra kill. One of the lions had already eaten and was having an early morning nap, but the other one was going to town on the zebra. We were so close that we could hear the ripping and crunching as she ate. Unbelievable. We watched until she’d had her fill, dragged the carcass off a bit and then was cleaning up before she had a rest.

We were completely satisfied and were ready to end on that note, but then Simon took us to one last site where a hippo had died/been killed as it was crossing land. It has been there several days, so we got to see a whole pack of hyenas and vultures fighting over the rotting carcass. It was kind of cool, until one of the hyenas dragged a chunk upwind of us and we got a whiff of it. Nothing like decomposing hippo before breakfast. After this, it was back to the lodge for one last breakfast and then we checked out and headed for the airstrip. This plane was bigger, I think a guy said a 52 seater. We had to make a couple more pickups across the Mara and then it was back to Nairobi. Most of the flight was okay, but there was some turbulence at the end and Whitney was again eager to get off right away and get some ‘fresh’ air (filled with plane and fuel fumes).

Joseph was there to meet us and we stopped at the Maasai market at Westgate on the way to the hotel. I felt like I was in the Amazing Race trying to navigate through this tight, cramped market full of all these stalls. There weren’t very many customers, but lots of shopkeepers trying to sell you their wares. “Sista sista, come into my shop, touching is free” After about 5 minutes, I was ready to leave, but Todd had a lot of shopping to do for fundraiser pieces, so I had to fend them off for much longer. You could leave the market area, but then you were standing along a busy street in the stifling sun. But we made it out alive, not losing anyone, arms filled with Todd’s bags, and I even bought a few things to bring home. I hate bartering and I’m sure I got taken advantage of, but you can’t improve unless you do it. Whitney’s a natural, Kristina’s pretty good and Kamal has spent a lot of time in India, so he’s pretty experienced.

Finally back to the hotel and I was so overheated that I went for a quick dip in the pool. Then we had to get ready for dinner at our friend/travel agent Rahul’s. It was actually at his parents’ place in a very nice but older part of Nairobi. Their house and garden are amazing, they have a guard to open the gate and a couple servant girls to serve the food and clean up. Very high class. But they haven’t had power for 2 days and the generator ran out of fuel about half way through dinner. It didn’t really matter though, we were all sitting on the patio and in the garden and there were lanterns and candles everywhere. I think it was actually nicer because even though there was a major road behind the garden, it was so dark that you could see the sky full of stars. It felt like pre-electric days, drinking wine in the soft light.

Kristina and Kamal were leaving early in the morning for South Africa. Kristina learned from the night before we went to Bumala so she was all packed, but this was our last night together, so it wasn’t going to be an early one. Especially since Todd’s hosting duties are almost done and he and Rahul broke into the Scotch. But I still wasn't feeling the greatest and am starting to get homesick, so I just went back to my sauna-like room. I felt bad not staying and saying farewell to Kristina and Kamal, but we’re already planning a get-together in Edmonton when they return next week.

Wednesday – only a couple days left. I hate to complain, as I’m in amazing Africa (heard it’s like -20-30 back home) with great travelling companions, but it’s just been a long trip. My stomach can’t decide if it’s better or not, so I’m going to give in and start taking my cipro. I don’t think I’ll be doing a whole lot of drinking in the next couple days, so I think it’s just better to start the antibiotics and hopefully feel decent for the trip home. But we got to sleep in this morning so that helped a bit too.

Elisabeth has another week or so in Kenya so she’s made plans to go check out the coast in Malindi. We’ve been sharing a room in Nairobi, so we had breakfast together, took a little walk down the street to the famous Norfolk Hotel, the oldest hotel in Nairobi, also featured in several scenes in Out of Africa. It’s a beautiful hotel, all historic yet extremely well maintained. The cheapest room is $240/night, some are up to $500/night. Elisabeth and I tried to look like we belonged, but I think all the staff could tell so we didn’t stick around too long. Across the street is the University of Nairobi so we checked it out a little. Then it was back to the hotel to say goodbye and the now group of 5, Todd, Heather, Whitney, Meryl and myself, went to the Sarit Centre. Ice cream, pizza and internet. Back to the hotel by 5 for some pool time, rest, nap, etc. I’ve caught up on my blogging and most of my packing is done. All in all, an okay day.

More safari and then back to Nairobi, again

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