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Published: July 27th 2008
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Mother and Baby Mona Monkey
from "Ghana Volta Region Natural Wonders" by Denise Ward (photo by Celia Ponzo) Part of Paul Kpai’s vision for economic development of his Have community and surrounding region is to promote tourism in the stunningly beautiful Volta Region. With that in mind, Paul treated Celia, me, and Jason (another Village Volunteer in Have) to a complimentary day tour of some of the most impressive wonders in this vicinity. Lucky me, I got to do the tour again, with the newest volunteer Kim, who is from New York, and is working on “the farm,” the sustainable agriculture project established by Paul about ten years ago. The tour agenda included Wli Waterfalls, highest in West Africa; Amedzofe, the highest human habitation in Ghana; and Tafi-Atome Monkey Sanctuary.
A grand tour, indeed. Paul recruited his good friend, Constance and his SRV as chauffeur and tourmobile. Paul ordered lunch prepared for the road, and stopped along the way to buy pineapple, mangoes, bananas, groundnuts (peanuts), and several types of biscuits (crackers). Though not a sunny, blue sky day, our spirits were high, as this was a special treat for us volunteers. The area we would be exploring was not far from Have, in the direction of district headquarters, Hohoe, through which we would travel, and would be
Wli Waterfall (lower cascade)
from "Ghana Volta Region Natural Wonders" by Denise Ward our only experiences with that busy town.
Our first stop, closest to Have and lowest in altitude, was the monkey sanctuary at Tafi-Atome. Like the monkey sanctuary in Brong-Ahafo region at Baobeng-Fiema, the eco-tourism project consists of a protected forest habitat with a sizeable population of monkeys, in this case, the mona. During the cooler mornings and evenings, the monkeys come out into the village, but stay in the shade of the forest during the heat of the day. However, we just barely entered the trail into the forest from town, and a call plus flash of bananas brought several adorable monas to branches within inches of us, including a mother with baby. The trick is to hold the banana high so they can take off small pieces at a time, prolonging the entertainment. Otherwise, they will grab the entire banana and are gone in a flash. Of course they will return for more, but much more fun to be face to face with the lovely little creature looking you in the eye as it deftly breaks off whatever chunk of banana is exposed, repeating the process until the last bite is taken. We didn’t take time to walk
Kim & Paulo atop Gemi Mountain
from "Ghana Volta Region Natural Wonders" by Denise Ward the forest, as we had much to see and lots of walking at other sites ahead.
As we climbed in elevation out of town, the scenery incredibly increased in lushness, beauty, and serenity. On the first tour, we detoured first to Mountain Paradise, a guest house in the lush mountains with grounds and view that promised a private, peaceful, and restful escape. A perfect place for honeymoon, R & R, or a getaway far from the madding crowd. For us, a refreshment stop to wait out the rain. Paul treated us to some delicious sliced fruit - pineapple, mango, and orange slices. I discovered a craft corner including local pottery items, which turned out to be a treasure trove from which both Celia and I each found just the right gift for someone back home.
From Mountain Paradise, we continued to climb in elevation to Amedzofe, the highest human habitation in Ghana. Though dirt roads, the town is lovely and clean, with a surprising number of modern structures. I had expected an old, traditional village. The town may be old, but few huts or shacks in sight. Signs of development included a college and very nice tourist center,
Sunset from Gemi Mountain
from "Ghana Volta Region Natural Wonders" by Denise Ward at which we stopped to check in and inform the attendant that we would be hiking to the summit of Gemi Mountain, the peak above town. A steep, lovely hike on a rocky trail through lush green grass and vistas to take your breath away. On the second trip with Kim, the landscape was even greener than before, due to rains, and with just the right combination of sun and rainclouds, a full arc rainbow from the town into surrounding lush hills. The hill is topped by a large cross, erected by a German, I read, though have forgotten the date. It’s a place difficult to tear yourself away from, and, sadly we descended, taking more pictures, and oohing and aahing all the way. On the first trip, the sky cleared from clouds to blue, while on the second trip, we were later in the day, and were treated to the beginnings of a lovely sunset.
On the first tour, we returned to Mountain Paradise for lunch, which Paul, a most attentive tour guide, personally served us on a private outdoor deck. More freshly sliced fruit, too - we were in pineapple and mango heaven. To our delight, the
Rainbow over Amedzofe
from "Ghana Volta Region Natural Wonders" by Denise Ward view from Mountain Paradise includes Gemi Mountain, and to good eyes (thankfully, mine still!) or binoculars, the cross at Gemi’s peak, where we had climbed less than an hour before. When I toured with Kim, just a few days ago, we lunched on the outdoor deck of the Wli Waterfalls visitor center upon our return from that wonder.
Wli Waterfalls is the most spectacular waterfall I have seen, at least close up. Due to rains, it was even more dramatic the second time, with more water volume and velocity, as well as huge horizontal sprays. At the bottom of the waterfall is a huge, inviting pool that is safe for swimming (which many do). An unusual feature of the falls is the reddish brown rock walls that are home to thousands (at least) of fruit bats - quite a sight with binoculars - that cling, many hanging upside down, to the rocky surface. And, there is more to Wli Waterfalls that meets the eye, at least at ground level, from which one only is viewing the last of three cascades. The other two are visible from a distance upon approach, each cascade seen from different vantage points. One can
Celia, Paul, Denise & Jason on Gemi
from "Ghana Volta Region Natural Wonders" by Denise Ward climb the mountain to view the higher cascades, but Paul refused to allow it, warning that during the rainy season the ground is slippery, making the climb too dangerous. Darn! The border with Togo runs through these mountains, so the waterfall actually originates in Togo.
I haven’t mentioned the forest walk to get to the falls. It’s a bit of a walk, thankfully, as the lush scenery is stunning, winding back and forth over a river, crossing nine wooden bridges, and accompanied by butterflies and birdsong.
And because Paul loves his region and never tires of the beauty himself, and the joy of those he shows it to, we returned to Have each time after dark, with a happy tiredness that we had had some great exercise and seen natural beauty we would not forget.
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