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Published: April 9th 2007
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As we begin our second week here, I've become very fond of our Little Liberia and the refugees. Many of them have stopped asking us for money or marriage and are treating us like old friends. We had a great time on Debbie's birthday. A local drum band performed for us outside the Guesthouse. They sounded fantastic as they beat out African rythyms whilst two of the guys danced, twirled, back flipped and somersaulted in time to the beat. And can they dance! All the local kids gathered to watch and there was a fantastic atmosphere. By then, we were also getting to know the other volunteers better and form new friendships. Funnily enough, the camp is starting to feel like home.
Nevertheless, after a hectic first week in camp, all the IVS were really looking forward to a weekend away, for a chance to explore the country and meet some Ghanaians! A group of six of us left on Friday morning for Cape Coast, a beach resort about two hours away from the camp. We travelled by tro-tro, which is always an interesting experience. They are basically vans that drive through the main towns of Ghana, which you
can hop on and off as you please. They are very cheap and convenient, but also filled with hot, sweaty people who are crammed on top of each other. Tro-tros which are probably meant for 15 people, can have about 25 packed in them. I think the risk of DVT must be very high on long journeys!
Ghanaian greetings
We got to Cape Coast early on Friday afternoon, found our hotel and settled in. The Hotel Somma was very basic, so much so in fact, that Debbie and I found ourselves in a room that already had bodyprints on the bedsheets, and a sink that was falling off the wall with water dripping everywhere. Still, budget is budget, and it's all part of the fun!
We were surprised to see that despite being one of Ghana's leading tourist destinations, Cape Coast is actually very poor. I guess, like everywhere in Africa, the wealth lines the pockets of those who already have a lot of money. Rich get richer, poor get poorer. The town was very dirty, waste littered the streets and the sewage systems running down the side of the roads smelt particulary bad. Goats,
chickens and stray dogs roamed everywhere and small children played barefoot in the dirt.
As we had become so accustomed to in the refugee camp, our presence was greeted by cries of "obruni!" wherever we went and children ran up to touch our hands. To our great surprise however, the adults of Cape Coast were far more reserved when it came to welcoming us. Having read before the trip that Ghanaians as a nation are friendly and very hospitable, in Cape Coast we actually found the exact opposite, although I realise that I am basing that opinion on the few people we met. Service in bars and restaurants was incredibly slow, people constantly apeared to resent giving us our change, and any smiles we directed at the locals were met with sullen stares. The sad thing is that this is probably caused by low morale and a feeling of hopelessness. It was very different to life in the refugee camp, where the Liberians can be very cheeky, but are also wonderfully spirited and a lot more upbeat.
Cape Coast Castle
The beach in Cape Coast was beautiful, and over the weekend it was extremely hot.
We all agreed that this was to be a weekend of relaxation, after the crazy few days at Buduburam we certainly all needed it! We visited Cape Coast Castle, a building used in the 18th century as a place to 'store' Africans, who would later be sent onto the Americas and sold as slaves. We saw the dungeons where the slaves were thrown, with no food and water, no light and no hope. The guide showed us the tiny, airless cell where those who didn't obey the rules were thrown and left to suffocate. We passed through the Door of No Return where the people were herded through like cattle, branded and forced onto awaiting ships. Some 5 million slaves passed though here and the castle is a standing monument to the pain, suffering and injustice they went through. Somehow being in these places, standing where so many people died and seeing what they saw really brings that home to you.
We whiled away the rest of our long weekend on the beach and looking in the markets. We also made sure to spend a little time each day in our rooms as they had working fans. After a
week in Buduburam, which has no electricity and is therefore stiflingly hot, this was a very welcome luxury. My definition of luxury has definitely changed already, and I'm only a week into the trip.
Home from home
We headed back to Buduburam, our home from home on Monday. Right now, I'm preparing for the week ahead and looking forward to getting stuck into my projects. HIV/AIDS tomorrow morning, followed by Press Club in the afternoon.
As yet, I can't load pictures onto this as the computers here don't have that facility. But, as you probably know, I am extremely snap happy and am likely to bore the socks off you with all my pictures when I get home anyway. Here's to week 2 in Little Liberia!
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mum
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brilliant second blog Cat! Carry on the good work. Love you! Mumxx