The "Real" Egypt

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For the last month, as well as all of my time in Egypt last year, I enjoyed living in Maadi. It’s a beautiful part of Cairo that is very westernized. I have always known that the way we live in Maadi is not how most Egyptians live, and while I have seen glimpses of real Egyptian life, it is not until now that I have actually experienced it first hand.

The village of Amshool is “real” Egypt, which is to say, “rural” Egypt. The roads are dirt paths that wind between houses. They are wide enough for walkers and bicycles and the occasional wide donkey load, but rarely wide enough for cars. Everywhere we go we encounter donkeys, goats, sheep, roosters and the occasional water buffalo. Our walk around the village last evening, first to church and then to visit one of Kadry’s sisters, was a little like a walk through the barns at the state fair. That’s not a pejorative comment, merely a descriptive one.

What else is “real” about Upper Egypt is the hospitality. There is not a wish or desire that is thought (to say nothing of being voiced) that is not immediately met. Also “real” about Upper Egypt is the strong sense of family and connection. As we walked through the village last night, we were continually being introduced to more of Kadry’s uncles, aunts and cousins. We asked at one point if he was related to everyone in the village to which he replied, “Not all, but many.”

The importance of family is also visible in our home. Each of the sons in this family has an apartment that has been constructed on top of the family home. We are staying in the apartment of eldest son, Emad, and his family, who lives and works in Kuwait. Each apartment has it’s own furnished living area, bedroom, bath and kitchen for when the family comes home.

Today I will experience another slice of “real” Egypt when I go to the kofir (salon) with Kadry’s twin sisters Nagat and Hala. I can hardly wait!

A final note on the real Egypt: The kofir was an experience and a half. I've never received so much attention before in my life. All the women gathered round to touch my hair, admire my beauty and ask if they could have their hair the same color as mine. It was a little daunting, but very fun!

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