Egyptian pyramids - Giza, Saqqara and Dahshur

My other blogs on Egypt
Sinai Mountains and Saint Catherine's Monastery
From Abu Simbel to Aswan, Kom Ombo and Edfu
The ancient temples of Luxor and Karnak
Tombs, temples and a hot air balloon
Diving in Dahab
Cairo

A visit to the pyramids is definitely one of the highlights of a trip to Egypt. However, there is much more to see than only the well-known Pyramids of Giza. There is a number of other sites where pyramids were built during the Old Kingdom. Besides Giza, the most famous sites are Saqqara - which features the first pyramid ever - and Dahshur with its unique Bent Pyramid. Whilst it is possible to visit all three sites on one single day I wouldn't recommend it. Access to the Giza pyramids is easily possible on public transport hence there is no need for an expensive guided tour. I'd recommend a full day in Giza, especially if you like to wander off into the desert for the most spectacular views from afar. As for Dahshur, there are only two pyramids which are worth visiting. A visit to these two pyramids should be linked with a visit to nearby Saqqara site with its pyramids and mastabas on the same day.

Pyramids of Giza

Of the Seven Wonders of the ancient world, only the Pyramids of Giza have withstood the ravages of time. "From the summit of these monuments, forty centuries look upon you", cried Napoleon; "A practical joke played on History", retorted another visitor.

The Great Pyramid of Giza is the oldest and largest of the three pyramids in the Giza Necropolis bordering what is now Cairo. The pyramid was built over a 20-year period as a tomb for Pharaoh Cheops. The tallest man-made structure in the world for over 3,800 years, it was finished around 2,500 BC. Unfortunately, not much is known about Cheops: his tomb had been robbed long before archaeologists came upon it. Any information about him was taken with the objects inside the tomb. The limestone casing which covered the outside of the pyramid has eroded or been removed over time.

The Pyramid of Chephren is the second largest of the Giza pyramids. It has a base length of 215m and originally rose to a height of 143m. The pyramid sits on bedrock which is 10m higher than the Cheops pyramid which makes it look taller. Chephren was the son and successor of Cheops. There is no evidence that anyone was ever buried in the main chamber. No inscriptions have been found in the pyramid, however there is a sarcophagus in the main chamber. The top of the pyramid still has some of the limestone casing that once covered the entire pyramid.

The Mykerinos Pyramid is the smallest of the three pyramids of Giza. Mykerinos was the successor to Chephren. The pyramid was not complete when Menkaure died and the granite encasement was in fact never finished. The pyramid stands some 65m high which is much smaller than the other two pyramids at Giza. A sarcophagus was found inside the funerary chamber but lost at sea while it was being shipped to England.

The Great Sphinx of Giza is a half-human, half-lion colossal statue next to the Chephren pyramid. It is the earliest known monumental sculpture. The Sphinx was probably built around 2,500 BC and is thought to be a guardian figure, protecting the tomb of the Chephren by warding off evil spirits. The Sphinx's face was mainly damaged during French occupation around 1800, when Mameluke troops used it for target practice for their field cannons, but its body has been weathered by the elements for thousands of years.

The cheapest way to get to the pyramids from Central Cairo is to take the metro to Giza Station for just LE 1. From there, hop on any public bus or minibus which is headed west on Pyramids road (8km for LE 0,50). You should note that Giza can be a nightmare. Its atmosphere can be ruined by the road, the coaches, the thousands of tourists and a seemingly equal number of Egyptians offering cheap souvenirs, donkey, horse and camel rides at far too high prices. Try to be there first thing in the morning and retreat in the dessert when it becomes too busy.

Pyramids of Dahshur

The Dahshur pyramid field (LE25) contains some of the most impressive of all the pyramids, and some of the most significant in the history of pyramid building. Two Old Kingdom pyramids can be found here in the desert. Both of them are credited to Snofru, the father of Cheops. The interior of the Red Pyramid with its corbel vaulted ceiling is well worth a look, and the Bent Pyramid preserves much of the outer casing that was stripped from the Giza pyramids centuries ago. The lack of tourists gives you a chance to take in the immensity of these monuments. In fact, I was literally on my own at both pyramids - quite a contrast to the busy Giza pyramids.

Snofru's Red Pyramid is named after the colour of the limestone it was built from. Just over 100m high, the interior is open to the public. However the electric lighting is poor and sometimes fails, so it's a good idea to bring your own torch. I entered the pyramid and climbed down a low and steep, long shaft which led me to one of the two antechambers. From here, it was a short way to the actual burial chamber with its sarcophagus. One definite advantage of visiting the interior of this pyramid rather than those at Giza is that you are likely to be alone to absorb the rather eerie atmosphere.

From the Red Pyramid, a track leads south to the pyramid where Snofru was buried, the Bent Pyramid. This is not only the most intriguing of the Dahshur pyramids, but, because of its state of preservation, also the most breathtaking. What makes Snofru's final resting place different from all the other pyramids is its change of angle towards the top: it rises more steeply than the Red Pyramid or Giza pyramids for three-quarters of its height, before abruptly changing to a gentler slope - hence its name. The explanation for its shape, and why Snofru should have built two pyramids only a kilometre apart, is a long-standing mystery.

It is both difficult and time-consuming to get to Dahshur on public transport hence I opted for a taxi. My hostel provided me with a chauffeur-driven car for EUR 25,- per day. I decided to visit both Dahshur and Saqqara during this day and left around 7.30 in the morning. It took me about 1 hour to get to Dahshur where I spent some 2.5 hours before my driver took me to Saqqara, 10km away.

Pyramids of Saqqara

Saqqara (LE50) was one of the main burial fields of the ancient city of Memphis, capital of Ancient Egypt during the Old Kingdom. It is located some 40 kilometres south from Cairo.

Saqqara is best known for the Step Pyramid, the oldest of Egypt's pyramids. It was built for King Djoser during the 3rd Dynasty, in the mid-27th century BC. In addition to Djoser's, there are as many as 16 other pyramids on the site, in various states of preservation (or sometimes dilapidation).

Saqqara is also home to an impressive number of mastaba tombs. Because the necropolis was lost beneath the sands for much of the past 2,000 years many of the mastabas have been superbly preserved, with both their structures and lavish decorations intact. The most famous one is that of Meruruka with 32 rooms, each one decorated with reliefs. The mastabas of Ptah-Hotep and Ti are also worth visiting. The latter features an underground shaft which leads to the burial chamber with a massive stone sarcophagus.

An extra ticket (New Tombs, LE 25) will give you access to three more tombs, including the tomb of Irukaptah and the double tomb of NiankhKhnum and Khnumhotep - both should not be missed.

Sound and Light show

In operation since 1961, the Sound and Light show at the Giza Pyramids is a highlight and a "must do" for most visitors to Egypt. The intriguing combination of a modern light and laser show combined with the ancient history of Egypt makes for an entertaining evening. Hear the Sphinx telling the story of Egypt as seen through his eyes throughout the many millenniums, as the pyramids and skies are lit up with multi-coloured lights.

That's at least what the brochure says. To be frank I think the Sphinx' story is crap and old-fashioned - but then again you don't need to listen to it. Instead, join the show to enjoy the dramatic lighting of the pyramids under the star-lit night sky. The one-hour show will set you back LE75, hot tea will be another ridiculously expensive LE10 and a blanket for a cold evening will cost you LE5.

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