Blogs from Aplahoué, South, Benin, Africa

I live in a fairly sheltered home. Family Asse has a home on the edge of town, down a road shared only with the Eglise du Royaume du Jesus-Christ, (which is a kick in the pants itself), and a tall wall surrounding the yard. I am very comfortable here. Usually I don’t fee like an outsider, but there are times when visitors come and I realize, yet again, what a novelty I am. I knew before I left the U.S. that I would look like a sore-thumb in this African society, but I didn’t realize how hard that would be to swallow. I am bothered the most when I am reminded of the contrast while in my home. I have already written about "yovos”, the word in the local language that means, “white person”. Even ... read more

I like to write in the morning, sitting at an old school desk on a bench on my porch. This morning Papa brought me two fresh baguettes; I am in the process of eating some with honey. I am not alone; Maman is sweeping in front of her door, and Papa and my “sister” Valerie are going in and out, getting ready for the day. Last night I played an endless game of UNO with Maman and Evarise, well, endless until 23h, an hour after I usually go to my room. Yesterday was a very active day for me; I met Jacy to go running at 6h30 and had a good run. We saw a hunter coming back from his night’s work, probably hunting bush rat. He was wearing a headlamp; that is, a floodlight attached ... read more

I am eating peanut butter with a spoon. Beninoise peanut butter. What’s funny is that peanuts are a staple crop in Benin, but aren’t used much in cooking, and as far as I know, not for peanut butter either. I bought this peanut butter from a woman who works for the Peace Corps. She recognized the opportunity to earn a little extra, and learned how to make peanut butter for all us deprived Americans. Of course, the peanut butter doesn’t have the sugar I am used to, so I will still appreciate some good p.b. from the U.S. Until then, this is pretty darn good. I have a latrine story for you. Excuse me if I offend someone, but I really think it is too funny to not share. The latrine is a distance from my ... read more

So this is Africa. The Peace Corps does a very good job of masking reality, to some extent, to prevent culture shock. I spent five days in Cotonou before traveling to Aplahoue with eight other stagaires. In Aplahoue, we met our host families. My name now is Asse Beth Erika. I was told I would become the eighth child of this family, but I think there are only four children actually born from my mother and father. The definition of family here is very inclusive; I think the other children are cousins or friends who have families not as capable of providing for their children, so my family welcomes them. This is a very typical family in African culture. My family Asse is wonderful, and maybe one of my greatest sources of comfort. Considering the circumstances, ... read more