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Published: March 31st 2017
Aomori
The Toyoko Inn room was one of the best we stayed in, roomy, bright, BUT a hard bed!Up and off early this morning, we caught the 0800hrs train out of Takayama, changed to the Shinkansen in Nagano, rushed to the next Shinkansen in Tokyo, and reached our destination Aomori at about 1700hrs having travelled over 800kms for the day. A tiring day even though we were sitting down for most of it. Aomori is a port town on the east coast and is, as quoted in a brochure, "about 2 hours 59 minutes north of Tokyo". When planning this section of the trip we chose this town as it was on the coast and within reach of Hokkaido if we wanted to go further north.
Rags was a little worried that the accommodation we had booked, the Toyoko Inn Aomori, may be a little less than expected and we had booked it for 5 nights. His worries were allayed. The modern-looking hotel, just over the road from the railway station, gave us a room on the 9th floor which was larger than any other we have been in these holidays. A walk through a nearby part of the town found it to be an interesting and quite modern town with a good feel
Aomori
The Bay Bridge just near our hotel. As spectacular in daylight too! to it. Should be a good base from which to end our enjoyable trip!
Monday 27th March Last night we made the decision to explore the near neighbourhood today. We had an early Japanese breakfast of rice with cold meat and condiments, hot soup and coffee before returning to our room to catch up with our chores. It is pointless going out too early as nothing seems to be open in Japan before 1000hrs.
First stop was the nearby Fish and Vegetable Centre. We found something resembling a market but it was very quiet and there wasn't a great variety of either. We spent a little time looking at various shops and stalls around them before crossing a bridge across the railway lines where we found ourselves in a more average neighbourhood. we did note that this area was not as clean and tidy as most of what we have seen of Japan but in fairness not all the snow had melted and cleanups may have followed. We walked around a small marina and towards the Aomori Bridge, a spectacular construction reminiscent of a harp. Before crossing it we decided to explore some buildings in
Aomori
The Prefectural building. Very impressive building there to greet the tour ships that dock just behind it. the distance. The first was a casino and from there we went to a building marked COOP. This store had all sorts of shops and the first we entered was like our $2 shops. Had a good time there looking at various things and walked out with various knick-nacks for home and for the grandkids. Rags is like his father, who else would return from a trip to another country and return with a packet of sandpaper? The supermarket was good too, and confectionery for presents, and a 1.8 litre bottle of Suntory whisky for us to take home, were purchased.
A cold walk across the Aomori Bridge followed, the wind being icy and strong. We crossed the harbour and left the bridge at the Aomori Prefectural Building, a 76m building in the shape of an A (for Aomori). This was set up for tourists, especially those that came off the cruise ships which would moor there, with stalls selling the local products such as those made from apples and other tourist 'junk'. Lunch was a different type of noodle soup to what we had previously had, once again delicious.
Rags made the error of saying he wanted
Hirosaki
Beautiful snowflakes dropping on us on the way to the castle. to got to a department store to look at some kitchenware. We found a department store, no kitchen section but a good range of ladies clothes all at sale price! He was rewarded with a Starbuck's coffee and a pastry, Judy with a new dress and a jumper. Seems to be an inequity there, but then again we aren't home yet! The cold was getting to us now so back to the hotel. Tonight neither of us felt like braving the weather for dinner and as we had a late lunch we were happy with nibbles left over from yesterday's train trip, and a few drinks.
Tuesday 28th March This morning we caught the local train and over the next hour watched the passing countryside become whiter and whiter due to the snow remaining getting deeper and deeper. In fact, it did start snowing but the snowflakes just melted when they hit the ground. The Aomori Prefecture is where the Fuji apple was developed and as our destination of Hirosaki is considered the 'Apple Capital of Japan', you could almost call the town the home of the popular Fuji apple. Just out of the town boundary
Hirosaki
We weren't sure whether this was the Castle or the Keep. Restoration work was on everywhere. is the Hirosaki City Apple Park where a large range of different apple trees are grown. We didn't get to this section, mainly because there was little to see at this time of the year with the trees bare of leaves and the ground covered in snow. It was snowing as we left the train and walked down one of the main streets - a mall - of the town and even though it was cold it didn't seem too bad as there was no wind.
Our main objective for this tour was to visit the Hirosaki Castle and the huge parklands around it.The castle itself is closed to the public as much work is being done to restore and repair it. Soil around it has swelled, putting the keep and the wall fronting the moat at risk. The keep tower has been moved and they are in the process of removing and then rebuilding the wall. We were able to get close to the building, walking through large gates and reinforcements over 3 circling moats. There were workers shovelling snow away from the building as we walked past. After taking many photos and standing on several past lookouts
Sukayu Onsen
If you look carefully you still won't see Judy! we made our way back towards the railway station, time having got away from us and stomachs telling us it was lunchtime. As today was our wedding anniversary we wanted to make the day a little special and Rags had spotted a pizza shop advertising Guinness. With both of us happy to have a change from the Japanese food we have been eating (and enjoying) we made this our choice for lunch. Unfortunately they had no Guinness for sale, they just used a sign with that brand on it, but their pizza was very tasty although rather expensive.
A few more little purchases were made at a local store before we relaxed for an hour in the warmth of the train before returning to Aomori. After a shower and change of clothes (Judy bought a nice warm dress) we shared a bottle of wine we bought to celebrate, before setting out to find somewhere nice to eat. This wasn't easy as it seemed Tuesday wasn't a day all the restaurants opened or they didn't seem nice enough for our special dinner, but we did end up in a posh looking Italian one. A fancy looking meal was had amongst
Sukayu Onsen
Lots of snow still around it. the chandeliers with the waitperson hovering. We did feel a little guilty at not having Japanese food for both the meals out today and will keep looking for that special Japanese meal.
Wednesday 29th March We had another interesting day today, we caught a local bus which took us to Sukayu Onsen. An onsen is a traditional Japanese communal bath and this one, set high in the snow fields opened in the mid 1800s. It is one of the few left in Japan where both male and female can bathe together. The smell of sulphur dioxide from the volcanic water was strong when we entered the old wooden building but inside it is not noticeable. We were supplied with a towel and another cloth about the size of 2 washcloths, the latter to be taken in to splash yourself with either cold or hot water. It could also be used to be modest but was so small it was a waste of time. On entering the large room you see two large pools, one at about 40 degreesC, the other a little cooler. There is also another tub at the side with bowls next to it
Sukayu Onsen
The snow depth is shown on the sign. and here you go to thoroughly wash yourself before stepping into one of the other pools. It is very warm inside and quite steamy, with the water in the first pool you enter giving you a bit of a shock with its temperature. We stayed in for about 10 minutes before settling into the cooler pool for a longer time. There were only a few other people in the water, one elderly lady and three or four men. Very little notice was taken of us and we felt quite comfortable there talking to each other. After about 30 minutes both of us were looking a little more wrinkly than normal so we left for our respective change rooms and met in the main foyer once again dressed. Rags was impressed that Judy overcame her qualms about going in, she rather enjoying the experience. We did time it well though, a bus of tourists arrived and it may not have been such a serene time with all of them there.
After a soba (buckwheat) noodle soup lunch and a walk through the shop there, we found our bus to return to Aomori. This was the same one we had come
Aomori
The final temple we looked at. up on and the driver greeted us as if he was our personal driver, which he almost was as there were no more than 4 or 5 other people on the bus at any time. He had driven from Aomori at a very sedate speed, this obviously set by the company as we had to wait at several stops for a few minutes before moving on. The return journey was the same and winding down the steep mountain passes, with the snow several metres high on each side, we appreciated his careful manner. On disembarking at the terminus, Rags thanked him and complimented his driving, receiving a big smile in return.
Today we elected to have our room cleaned by the staff at the hotel, the other days we just had the towels changed and the bin emptied. This was done as part of our 'green' mindset as sheets don't need changing every day and the room was clean with us only being in it for only a short time or for sleeping. The previous hotel used to reward guests who did this by giving them a bottle of water and although that was appreciated it negated any green
Aomori
Now this is a soup! saving. Be that as it may, the room was not ready yet and we sat in the foyer for a short time watching the world go by until they were ready. Judy had some work to do for her students so the rest of the late afternoon was spent in our room.
Thursday 30th March Another still,cold, yet fine morning with showers forecast for the afternoon. This will be our final day in Aomori and we have done most of the things we were hoping to do and then a few. Judy hadn't had a good night's sleep (bed too hard) and wasn't feeling 100%! (MISSING)After a leisurely breakfast and the usual preparations, we went out and finally located the fresh fish and vegetable markets. Here you can buy a set of tickets and you get a bowl of rice. The idea is to then go around to the participating vendors and exchange these tickets for samples of their fresh fish, scallops, prawns, roe and the like, and then sit down with some condiments and enjoy your meal of sashimi. It did sound interesting but as we had no appetite so soon after breakfast, and Judy's
Aomori fish market
Here you can buy tokens to trade for pieces of fish to have with your rice dish. tummy wasn't quite ready for raw fish, the thought of cold seafood in the cold environs of the market did not really appeal.
Instead, we walked further down the main street, well away from where we had been before, finding ourselves in a more local type of area. One shop, selling all sorts of tableware caught our eye and we walked out of there with a few things for ourselves and possible presents. A supermarket was next and here again we purchased a few things such as drinks and nibbles. A bottle of a drink Judy had last night will be added to our luggage, this joining the bottle of whisky already there. It won't take much to fill our duty-free quota the way we are going!
Even further down the street we came to a local temple and as we hadn't been to one for a couple of days, we entered at Judy's insistence. Nice enough place and we saw a monk removing an offering to the gods, of fruit and drink, for safe-keeping. On the return walk we crossed to a street running parallel to the street we had been on to find we had come
across a seedier part of town with many bars advertising ladies, many with multiple rooms opening into the laneways. It may have been an interesting place to see at night, but Judy didn't think so.
Judy did find the spot of the day a little further on, a cafe packed with locals at 1145hrs. A spot was found for us and the next 45 minutes or so, had us enjoying one of the best lunches we have had this trip. Judy had a chiili tofu dish, with squares of tofu in a sauce on top of rice, plus miso soup, Rags had a huge bowl of chilli soup with ramen noodles, chicken, cabbage, carrot, bean-sprouts, spring onion and mushroom. Both of us struggled to finish our meal but we did try hard. Rags will definitely try to replicate his soup dish when we return home.
With the skies becoming grey and the wind rising, we took that as an omen to stay in our room for the afternoon, Judy having a lot of uni marking to do and wanting to get it finished as Sunday is the deadline and we'll be busy flying home that day. Neither of
Aomori Nebuta Figure
We saw these in many spots around the town. they relate to the Nebuta Festival that is held in August every year. "Nebuta" refers to the float of a brave warrior-figure which is carried through the center of the city, while dancers dance around in the float. us was very hungry, but we did go out in the evening as we thought we should have something. We ended up at a small cafe, nobody spoke English and there was no English menu. Through sign language and pointing to the menu we ordered two dishes which looked like pizzas and a bottle of hot sake to share. Two egg pizza-like dishes came out, a bottle of room temperature sake with one glass and a glass of what Judy described as marmalade and water, followed. The pizzas were great, one seemed to be seafood and the other vegetable. Rags even found an oyster in his! The sake had to be shared as it was 20% alcohol and Judy's drink was only ok. All in all though it was a very enjoyable meal.
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Helena Holton
non-member comment
Enjoy the last day tomorrow!
Looking forward to tasting your chili souo with ramen noodles!