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Published: April 1st 2015
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Laughing on dune 45
Laughing in 'The Dress'at dawn atop dune 45 Namib-Naukluft National Park
49,768 square km is bigger than Switzerland
Sossusvlei Dunes
1 well rested beach-strolling day later we are once again en route. Crossing the Tropic of Capricorn 23* south of the equator, entering the area know as Moon Scape, leaving behind the bustling vibrant market, smiling persuasive vendors and stately colonial buildings of bygone German Swakopmund, each mile adds what feels like another several degrees to the temperature.
We have met Boseman, theoretically know how to spot and catch lizards, tomorrow in the dunes we will practice our Bushman skills.
Tonight we camp in the Namib-Naukluft National Park which is bigger than Switzerland! It is in this area that evidence of Gondwanaland (ancient sub continent) and of the subsequent separation of Australia and South America can be found.
We are about an hour away from the famous Sossusvlei dunes of the Namib desert, the oldest desert in the world, it is oxidized iron which gives them their rich rust color.
5am: setting out In the cool blue of pre dawn, headlamps on, each cloistered with our thoughts in our private pool of light, barefoot in the soft shifting sand, we
make the arduous climb to the crest of dune 45. From its high lip we will watch the sky blush warm then the first rays of sunlight will set the dunes ablaze.
Ah that glorious light! How could I resist? Some of you may know that I've spent a lifetime as a fashion model, now turned photographer...old habits die hard...so....before leaving CapeTown for this adventure I stuffed a lovely flowing (wrinkle proof) bohemian chic dress into my bag (you never know)! It turned out to be just the thing, a fantasy was born! 'The Dress' one size fits most' was perfect for all the women in the truck!
As the sun rose, each in turn wearing the dress, laughing our heads off, we jumped and whirled atop the dune, the golden early morning light on our faces, the desert wind in our hair, taking 'fabulous' photos of each other, making heady memories, living a lighthearted fantasy and loving every moment!
Laughing, exhilarated, now in full blazing sunlight, we bounded down the dune to the truck far below where Eddie our trusty 'food engineer' had breakfast waiting. Trust me, toast, eggs and coffee amount to a feast after
you've climbed and whirled atop dune 45 from darkness to full morning light.
Oh yes that's right we were supposed to be spotting and catching lizards...oops! Oh well, next time!
It's still only 10 am so why waste the day.
We drive further into the national park to Dead Vlei an area once flooded and green which was in time cut off from any water supply by the ever encroaching dunes. All vegetation died, the result: a white lime 'floor' with gnarled dry hulls of trees....a ghostly landscape.
Beautiful....yet another perfect backdrop for 'The Dress'!
By 2pm we are done for! Exhausted, melting, we make the hours drive back to camp, lunch, break camp, pack tents and travel to dreadful camp H...... I'm tempted to mention it by name as it stands out in infamy on this otherwise wonderful trip. The 'swimming pool' is reminiscent of a green, slimy watering hole, the 'pet' impala that constantly tries to butt me with it's crooked sawed off horns has covered our stony campground with thousands of impala pellets, the open air 'kitchen' counter is covered with more pellets from god only knows what source, shaped differently but
equally abundant, plus cob webs abound!
An dis is de night I supposed to cook curry?!
Wha?!!! Hold me back! The Trini New Yorker in me can't be contained! I flush out and the manager and shred him!
With broom and bleach our indefatigable tour guide whipped the kitchen into shape, dinner of a sort was 'engineered' and produced (not by me I quit!)
Bed time...we line up for the only 2 dimly lit showers in the place but, when you're that tired it takes a bit more than some stony ground and a few thousand impala pellets to keep one from a good nights sleep!
The sweaty dress lies balled up snugly in it's own plastic bag, the lizards I assume are sleeping.
The end!
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SUSAN MCGRAW
non-member comment
TRAVELS WITH YOU!
Dearest Pat, It is wonderful to read your blog and know of your adventures as you journey. Love your photos and see the exuberance and joy in your days through your words, thoughts, and photographs. Keep writing….stay safe feel blessed, for you are! With love, your friend, Susan McGraw Keber