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Published: February 23rd 2014
Landed here last night and it was warm, so relieved. The sun even came out today, so we are in much better spirits.
I used to pronounce this place as "Hugh". Upon arrival, I found it was pronounced "way". But, when I say "way" to a Vietnamese person, they do not understand, so then I write it out, and they smile and say "way".....I absolutely cannot hear the difference. Now, my children would say that is because I am really can't hear very well, but, in this case, I think it is the tonal language....the end of the word goes up or down, not sure which, but our ears just can't hear the difference.
This is the ancient capital of Vietnam. There is a huge, old palace, which they call a citadel. Most of it is a replica, with only a small part of the original remaining. During the Vietnam war, the Vietcong took over the citadel. The Americans and south Vietnamese armies attacked.....this was the location of the infamous Tet Offensive. By the time the fighting was over, the palace was in ruins, and many were dead.
I have also learnt that agent orange left a nasty legacy...the children of those exposed were often born with serious birth defect, often in the legs. There are far too many young people in wheelchairs, and way too many with twisted and bent limbs. Efforts do seem to be made to provide assistance, often in embroidery workshops. Canada set up a vocational training centre for this purpose.
Today we visited a couple of the temples and tombs and the citadel. Then, our guide, Thoung, said he had a special surprise for us. He took us to meet Mr. Phan Thuan An. Mr. An is in his mid sixties. His wife is the grand daughter of the last emperor's sister. His house is a garden house. Mr. An explained that Garden houses were designed according to feng shui principles, with built-form and nature in perfect harmony. His home is known as the Temple of Princess Ngoc Son. He is a very cultured, well spoken and calm man, despite the hardships he has lived through. He has a table given to him and his wife by the Queen Mother as a wedding gift. Because it came from the royal palace, it is very precious to him. He also has some ceramic bowls from the 14th century, and some royal toothpicks (bamboo and very pretty). The main part of his home acts as a shrine to his relatives, and he feels it his duty to preserve what is left, and to work to restore the heritage of Hue. An amazing man, we were so lucky to meet him. While you were with him, you felt his remarkable spirituality and his innate goodness.
Unfortunately, the everything is very old and dusty,and we all came out with scratchy throats and a little cough.
Wish I had taken a photo of him, but I was shy to ask.
The history of the war as told and lived by Mr. An is.....I'm not sure what......tragic, of course, senseless and horrific as well.
According to the displays in the Hanoi prison, the American prisoners enjoyed basketball, volleyball, making Christmas dinner and excellent meals and medical care.......
The memories in North and South Vietnam are quite different, I am learning.
This poor country has had people fighting over and in it for centuries. Now, they are at peace, and are barrelling into the 21st century, full speed ahead. But, they burn massive amounts of coal to produce power, and air quality, even here in Hue, is terrible. I am afraid that all the boats that take overnight cruises on Halong Bay, and we counted 30 or so, dump all the sewage into the water...I saw no evidence of pumping out....yet, Mr. An is here, not in Paris.....
A country of contrast....I have lots of questions, but no answers, at least not yet.
Here we are at the pagoda. But, all is not serious, and we are having great fun. Only in the evenings is there time for thought and reflection.
Off to Hoi An tomorrow. More later
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meg
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wow
What wonderful adventures you are having! So glad it has warmed up!