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Published: February 15th 2014
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It is wonderful to be back in Luang Prabang. 36 hours is a ridiculous travel time, but it was so worth it. I had some worries that this place lived larger in my memory and dreams than reality would bear, but this was not so. It is very touristy, kinda smelly, and absolutely wonderful.
Have seen my monk friend Shong and had a teary reunion with Thong. When I was last here, he was a teenager, and now he is a young man. Last night he took us out to the little village where he living for dinner and a baci ceremony. The baci is a blessing ceremony. Thong is Hmong, not Buddhist, so the ceremony was performed by a Shaman rather than a monk. One again, I have the blessings of a Laotian village, and the cotton cords around my wrists as a reminder. We were also each given a sin, the traditional Lao skirt.
Thong lives with his mother and two brothers in a teeny, tiny house he rents. By Canadian standards, the abode is a hovel, and we would not permit poultry to live in such a space. By contrast, prices at the hotel where Thong works start at just over $1,200 US a night. I am in awe of his quiet and dignified acceptance of this disparity. When I first met Thong (not sure if it was 5 or 6 years ago) I was struck by his intelligence and determination, together with his kindness. Why would a kid from a little wee hill village an hour from a school, with illiterate parents and no one around who he ever finished high school be set on a university education? His family did not encourage him, they wanted him home to work in the rice fields, but he came to Luang Prabang at 14 (it may have been 13), lived with a distant relative several miles from town, worked two jobs, paid his school fees, sent money home and learnt English. Now, he is months way from completing university. Still, it will be hard for him, he told me that jobs go to those with connections. I know he will find a way to make it work.
He is not happy that I am here for such a short time, and I have promised a longer return visit, hopefully next winter.
Here is a photo of Thong and I.
More later.
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Ken & Tams
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Beautiful Picture
What a beautiful picture. Happy and safe travels, we look forward to the updates =D