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Published: August 28th 2013
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24 Aug Day 12: HuchuyQosqo, Taucca, Chincheros ,Ollanta and train to AguasCalientes, Machupicchu.
I woke up. this morning to the sound of rain on the skylight. The first rain we've seen in almost two weeks in Peru and everyone is out on their Treks. Perhaps getting sick is a cloud with a silver lining. I got up had a nice shower, breakfast and generally a leisurely start to the day. Why you ask am I going into this level of detail? Well, it will become clear when you read what I should have been doing which was - "An early wake up at 6:00 am, after breakfast we leave our campsite at 07:00 am (1 hour to walk to HuchuyQosqo) a soft walk to end the valley and we walk through a narrow canyon to see a recently restored trail with wooden bridges and some steps, a lot of of native trees and bushes , a panoramic views of Lamay Valley and Calca, the sacred river of the Incas, Willcamayo ; the walk is one hour to reach the Inca site of HuchuyQosqo, recently restored by archaeolists, located at 3450 mals from this point it is clear to see many beautiful
mountains as Chicon, Pitusiray, Sawasiray, Waccaywilca and Veronica ancient Apus so respected and venerated by the locals which most of them are Incas - Quechuas descendents. We have a guided tour for 1.5 hours to visit and explore this interesting Inca complex. HuchuyQosqo was originally an administrative and military center as Pisaq, with many constructions around, Inca buildings with perfect fine stones work, graneries structures called Collcas to store and preserve food, because it was an important agricultural center to produce corn. By 10:00 am we walk down from HuchuyQosqo for 2 hours to Lamay in the Sacred Valley of the Incas and our vehicle will transport us Ollantaytambo to board a train to Aguas Calientes."
All sounds very nice doesn't it? That's unless it's been raining all night, it's cold and you wake up with water in your tent. well that was Liz's lot and it would have been mine. As for the other group they were facing the same plus sleet, snow and strong winds and were the last group to come through a pass called "Dead Woman's Pass". Later groups had to turn back because of the weather.
Hence the reason for my description of
The mountain is having a wee
The water just appeared to be pouring out of the mountain. my activities. I was picked up by a "taxi" driven by a former guide who can no longer walk on treks as a result of a knee operation, so I had a fairly detailed description of all the features we passed on the way to Lamay - a journey of an hour and a half. Isaac is a Quechuas (pronounced Ketchua) and rather radical about it. In fact he told me he would be insulted to be called a Peruvian. I can't remember the term he used but basically he considers any-one not a Quechuas to be a half cast and I have the feeling he looked down on them. I don't think that he, if not his people have accepted the Spanish invasion. Which is interesting because I had come of the opinion that most people in Peru actually celebrate the coming of the Spanish. This has been a constant source of surprise throughout the trip, so it was interesting to strike the attitude that I had expected to encounter from the beginning. I now wonder whether or not what we are shown is what "they" want us (the tourist) to see and that I was lucky enough to
see some of what simmers below?
Anyway, back to the story. We picked up Liz and her guide, Edward. Edward is a rock star as far as Liz is concerned. I have to admit he does have an excellent knowledge of his subject (he was also our guide in Machu Picchu). But apparently along the way he saves stranded fouls, is kind to children and less fortunate locals.
We continued the taxi ride to Ollantaytambo where we had lunch and caught the train to Aguas Calienates (which literally means hot water). The change in the vegetation was dramatic. It changes from almost desert to semi-tropical rainforest. In fact this is recognised as the start of the Amazon rainforest. Along the way the numbers of eucalyptus trees was mind blowing. Talking of the gum trees, Isaac was talking about them and how the Spanish introduced the trees. I mentioned that they are native to my home, Australia, to which he replied, "They are good, no?" I then asked when then asked when the gum tree was introduced to Peru. Isaac told me that the Spanish bought the trees with them in 1542. I chose not to ruin a good
story with some rather trivial facts such as the date of the discovery of Australia by Europeans.
After the luxury of the hotel in Cusco, the hostel we arrived at was a bit of a dive but that's part of the adventure and all these places are made up of the people that inhabit them and each has it's own charm and the same is true of Hotel Viajeros. The man at the desk was a character AND the sheets were clean.
Pen has been amazingly quiet. I think secretly he is excited about our visit to Machu Picchu or is it that he is warn out from his last few days of measuring levels?
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Liz Bundy
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thanks
Thanks for the travel tales. Sounds as though the holiday has been a great experience...no doubt you are looking forward to getting home now. Have a good flight.