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Published: April 3rd 2013
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Into the mountains
As we get set to leave Hauraz and the Cordillera Blanca, let me tell you about a place which is once again full of contradictions, and once again completely different from the other places we have been so far. The toughest part about Huaraz for both of us has been theses contradictions. To arrive in such a beautiful place only to be sick from the extreme altitude. To venture out into the streets only to be attacked by diesel fumes which made us both sick. To hike in some of the most beautiful places on earth, but deal with poorly run, companies to get you there. These are the things that make travel so difficult, yet so rewarding at the same time. One unexpected point about the city of Huaraz (most people's stopping point to get to the hikes) is the immense pollution by the diesel fumes. We realized how lucky we are in Canada to have such comparatively clean air to breathe.
With that said, we have been lucky enough to stay in the cleanest, quietest, b&b, filled with one of the most loving, caring families we have ever met. My
house b&b, a family run home with only six rooms, amazing views, and a beautiful courtyard is a must stay if you ever come to Huaraz, Peru. The owner Carlos, his son David, and their mom, sister, and uncle could not have been any sweeter to us if they tried. From bringing us hot coca tea at night when we had altitude sickness, inviting us to a family dinner with them, making us rice when our tummies weren't right, and taking us to his newly completed home in the mountains and for ice cream, this family and this place are truly special.
The people of the mountain are incredible people, from there colourful traditional dress and language, to their adorable children who often look sad due to the tough life they lead. The women here are extraordinary. They are incredibly strong, often carrying loads equal to, or more than their own weight on their backs, tied up in brightly coloured blankets. Their faces are also very strong and powerful, telling stories of living in the high sun and working hard in the fields. They seem extra loving with their children, particularly when they are young, and work
many jobs not seen anywhere else in South America so far. You see many police officers, construction workers, business owners who are women; they seem to be the engine which drives the mountains. There is also much meaning to their traditional dress, the type of hat, and even the way hats sit on their heads tells a lot about the person. If it sits straight, they are married, if it is tilted one way it means they are on the prowl, another way, means they are widowed, etc. The colours they wear also tell stories. If you know the traditions, you can know a lot about a person just by the way they dress.
Finally, what makes them special is their deep faith. We were lucky enough to be here during Easter when people come from all over Peru to celebrate Easter week here. The processions through town begin on Wednesday and continue to Sunday. The procession on Good Friday was one of the most moving experiences of my life so far. Tens of thousands of people walked for seven hours through town, all dressed in black and their best suits. There were three beautiful, large ceramic
The faces of the Cordillera Blanca
I was captivated by the faces here, it is very difficult to shoot them as a gringo, as they are private people. representations of the passion of Christ which were marched through town. The roads were closed, and beautiful works of art were almost instantly created by groups of people celebrating Jesus, and made of hand dyed sawdust. As the procession made its way through town, led by children dressing in cloths which I know the families could not afford, they walked over these beautiful works of art, leaving piles of dyed sawdust which was then collected by people in bags as symbols of faith. These three passion scenes were incredibly heavy, and people took turns carrying them short distances through town, many collapsing under the enormous weight. As the scenes came towards us, we could see them shooting wildly in different directions, sometimes surging forward unexpectedly, as they came closer we could clearly see that this was happening as people collapsed under the weight, and people near by jumped in quickly so the scene did not crush the people who collapsed. The most powerful part for me, was the faces of the thousands of people as they passed. You could feel the pain, loss, and suffering in their faces, as they offered it to god. It moved both Rosalyn and myself
to tears.
The mountains, explode to dizzying heights all around us, with many capped in snow, and are breathtaking. The biggest differences here are is that you are already at 10,000 feet looking up. Most places you are at 1000 feet looking up. What is also beautiful and amazing about this area is that people farm the mountain land, as far up as possible, on incredibly steep slopes; up to at least 16,000 feet there are people farming, growing crops, hearding animals, and harvesting. It makes the entire mountain beautiful in so many different ways. The drive through these high altitude farms and small towns is beautiful and amazing. Then when you get to the park and hikes, you are blown away again by the unbelievable and ever changing beauty and scale of all that is around you. It is difficult to put into words, and impossible to show in photos.
So as we say goodbye to the mountains and head to the city, I reflect on all we have seen and experienced. From the highs of the friendly people we've met, the incredible places we've seen, and the the challenges we've successfully met.
To experience the deep faith of the people here, to the lows of altitude sickness, sickening diesel fumes, and my brand new Arcteryx jacket being stolen, the Cordillera Blanca will stay in my memory and somehow become a little part of a person changed by travels.
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Mom & Dad
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Wonderful blog!
What a picture this interesting well-written blog paints Glen; the dicotomy between the mind blowingly beautiful scenery, the wonderful faith of these special people who have very little material wealth yet are so happy to share what they have, & the unfortunate reality of air pollution & lowlifes who steal from people!(too bad about your jacket) The photos of the people & the hike are stunning! Thank you for this wonderful blog & safe travels as you continue on your journey. Lots of love to you & Rosalyn. xoxo