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Published: January 22nd 2012
Carretera Austral
Our first ferry crossingSo, its been a packed few days since our last blog. We made our way from Cochrane to Villa O´Higgins all the way to the end of the Carretera Austral. We travelled down with our group of new-found friends after two nights in Cochrane. The scenery going south from Cochrane was beautiful and it was appreciated all the more because we didn´t do it like so many other travellers - on bicycle. The cyclists seem to outnumber the backpackers in this part of Chile.
We were a group of eight and found ourselves a cozy Cabaña in town with a fireplace and fully equipped kitchen. We tasked one of our travel companions, Dirk the Belgian chef, to cook us a meal. So, given a budget, we visited all the supermercados to look for some fresh produce - something rare in these parts given the remote location... A short while later we returned with dinner ingredients and below budget so we could get ourselves some wine for the meal! Pork roast, veggies with rice - felt like we were going to have christmas dinner! It was a special evening.
Marco attemped to fish in the nearby river but this turned
Villa O Higgins
Our cute cabana out unsuccessful once again. So after a day of relaxing we set off early the next day for the long trek - 2.5 hr ferry crossing on lake O´Higgins, followed by 22km of walking into Argentina and another 40min by ferry to where we would hitch and make our way to El Chalten.
The scenery was pretty despite the gale that whipped up some waves on the lake. We hit a bit of a snag when the mules that we were planning to take the bulk of our luggage were nowhere to be seen. So the two of us slogged into the gale and up-hill for the first 6km with all our luggage (about 53kgs in total!). It was a bit of a trial {:o).
After 18km we set up camp in Argentinian territory at Lago Larga. With no one around it was really nice and peacful. Marco had anther go at fishing as he heard that some big trout are found here. Finally some success! The fish bit and we had some trout and pasta for supper, despite it not being the big ones that one could see swimming past! While we ate trout for supper, the
Villa O Higgins
Our Belgian chef carving our pork roast muggies/mosquito creatures ate us for supper! There was a plague of them!
The next day we crossed the Lake and hitched a lift to El Chalten - the 25-year-old town that literally was founded because of tourists that come here to trek around Cerro Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre that tower over the surrounding landscape. We set off in the most amazing weather the following day to Cerro Torre. The walking was easy, which was a nice change, and we could recoup from all the other past walks, while walking. Arriving at the campsite we chose a nice spot, a comfortable distance from the other campers. After a snooze we awoke and tents had mushroomed around us. Later that evening we counted 38 tents and more people were still arriving!
We continued to the campsite at Cerro Fitz Roy in poor weather. Here we did a walk to another glacier and that evening had 8 Koreans camp 50cm from our tent... The next morning was a 4:30 rise to see the sunrise from the what turned out to be famed spot at the Lago de los Tres below Fitz Roy. We got up, bags packed, ready to hike
Lago O Higgins
The start of our border crossing expedition. Crossing Lago O Higgins up. Looking to the mountain we could see a trail of lights heading up the mountainside. The weather was inclement with thick cloud-cover, strong wind and as we headed off it started to rain. Not wanting to get drenched before our descent back to town we decided to turn around (one thing we have come to realise is that you are supposed to walk to enjoy it, not to punish yourself). We packed up our tent and headed back to El Chalten.
From here our journey took us to El Calafate. The main attraction here is the glacier Perito Moreno. We set off the next morning to view this spectacle. And it really was - the glaciar stretches from the ´Campos de Hielo Sur´ into Lago Argentina and onto the shore from where you view it. This causes the water from the one lagoon to dam up. One year it rose by 31m until it eventually burst.
The view and sounds make this quite a sight - cracking, creaking, splashing. We were fortunate enough to see a massive tower of ice come crashing down (and we got pictures too!). Despite the hoards of tourists, it was well worth
Lago O Higgins
Phil with her teddy bear ; ) it. Once home, we enjoyed some home made pizzas (much to the jealousy of the other backpackers!).
We took the next days´ bus further south (and across the border) to Puerto Natales in Chile. 120kms from this town lies the most visited and famous Chilean National Park - Torres del Paine. Unfortunately, an Israeli tourist started a fire (he claims he was burning toilet paper) and successfully burnt a huge piece of the park down. This has been a national disaster and has meant a huge loss in tourism. We decided to visit the park anyway, unsure of what we would find. A large portion of the park was closed, yet the entrance fee remained the same (very expensive!). When we arrived at the entrance, we found out that only one free campsite was open and that it was full so we could not sleep there. Disappointed and angry, we hitched a ride back into town, having had a glimpse of the Torres (towers) del Paine. The man who gave us a lift made it seem like we were in a space shuttle reentering the earth´s atmosphere.At one point, he was doing 170km/hr on a badly paved road!
The Group
Our new travel friends: 2 Basques, 2 Ozzies, 2 Belgians and ourselves In an hours time, we are off to Punto Arenas. From here, we hope to find a small town or two to explore before heading to the self proclaimed southernmost city in the world: Ushuaia.
Highlight:
Marco - the first glimpse of Cerro Fitz Roy on our border crossing
Phil - the cosy cabana and roast dinner with friends (Marco thinks this may also be his highlight!)
Lowlight:
Marco and Phil: The exhorbitant entry fee into the Torres del Paine park and not being able to do the hike we set out to do.
What we miss most:
Phil - a fully equipped kitchen
Marco - not having to mission around trying to find hostels!
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Mich
non-member comment
Marco looks like one of the 12 disciples ....never mind a teddy bear!! I love it - think it is really funky. Keep it up ..we would like to see it in real life on your return.