India

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Arriving in India by Kolkata, I met Ling, the twin brother of Chieh who lived with me in China for 3 years, traveled a lot with me, a great friend. The first impression of India is dirty and crowd as we expected. First of all, a place to stay, actually that wasn't hard to find, but that was hard to stay one more night, the most of them had already booked by someone for next day, so we needed to change the place almost every night.

Next day we went to India museum, here in India is the same for southeast Asia, the foreigner always pay more, actually the museum was so so, but on the roof of museum had a kite festival, just for local people, and somehow we got there to enjoy the view and talking to Indian as well.

Actually Indian is a very friendly people, but there are some, not a few, just being nice to cheat on us, like a Indian on the street tried to help us to find the place of Mother Teresa, but what he really wanted was to make us to pay him some photos for job, we paid Rs 95 for 3 photos and we found out later the price was Rs 50 for 8 photos, actually there are lot of Indian people really friendly, but always a lot of people just want your money, even in temple, when we went to Kali temple in Kolkata, the priest there took us for a tour and put us in a situation to donate money, Ling paid Rs 1000, and I said I could pay only Rs 500, somehow I felt it like a scam.

Our plan was to stay only 2 nights in Kolkata, then go to Mumbai, but train ticket wasn't easy to get, we got only train for next day, we paid Rs 500 each for the booking service in hotel, but later we learned how to but in station without extra charges, also we learned about so many quotas for tickets, basically they buy general quota and tatkal (emergency) ticket, and there is a foreigner tourist quota as well, not more expensive, but tatkal is more expensive. After that we went to train station to check how to get there, visit the railway museum and a very interesting flower market, they use a lot of flower in Hinduism.

Next day we went to the place to buy ticket by ourselves, ticket from Mumbai to Jaipur, and then we discovered our train to Mumbai is delayed by 9 hours… At least we are ready to sleep in the station to wait the train. On the way back, we found a street protest happening in a main street, that was street sellers’ protest, there were a lot of journalist photographers, taking photos of the event and our photo as well before the event really start. After that we visited the Kali temple, then we were back to hotel, spent sometimes in internet, finding a couchsurfer in Mumbai to host us, then ready to station to wait for 9 hours, the train should leave at 20:15, and there were a lot of people waiting as well, really a lot of people, this is India.

At 5:30 next day, our train departed to Mumbai, and there is 31 hours of journey, that will be long trip. In the beginning, some lady-boy beggars came to ask for money, I was in toilet, but according to Ling, they threatened him by needle, and that event almost made him quit the trip of India, after that he is always taking up bed, and that never happened again as well. We slept, woke up, ate and slept again, the train is old and dirty at least in our part, there were some small rats running around as our company; around 22:00, I went to the place between coaches, there was a place to charge my cell phone, people always was looking at my phone, that was a iPhone, but I also was watching it as well, when the train stopped in a little station, people came in and went out, somebody near to the exit pointed my phone, I thought he want see something, I just took the phone and approaching to him, that was a huge ingenuity of mine!!! He grabbed my phone and jump out of train, the train just started to move, and I jump out also to catch him, he was so fast, and I was inappropriately dress the shoes, after jumped out and some running steps, I lost my shoes, in the end, I didn't catch him, and my train was gone with Ling inside, he didn't know what happened, and there was a lockers with secret for our bags, only I knew the secrets. I went to the station police, at least they were very helpful, let me call my wife, and she helped me to find the Ling’s phone number and to send him the secret as well, that event made her crazy for many days. And I just got next train to Mumbai, and this train should arrive before our train, so I was illegally in that train because I had no ticket, and I tried to find a place to sleep without blanket, at night was cold, at least I found some up bed, there was less wind, a little warmer.

Next day I found a business man Rakesh, he spoke English as well, and helped to contact to my wife again, she was very worried, I took a long long time to calm her down again. And with Rakesh’s help we contacted to Ling and Ankur (our Mumbai couchsufer). Arriving in Mumbai, I was in another station, and Ling will arrive in another, so I went to another station, finally I met him again, and our couchsurfer as well, now I just need to buy a new phone, a cheap one, and new shoes, also cheap one, the both cost me Rs 2000. Now we had a nice place to stay for 2 nights, I could take a good shower and try to recover my injuries from jumping out of train, that was really crazy one; 2 warnings for India travel from this case: The first, do not charge your phone between coaches when train stop, the second, never jump out of train. We had a butter chicken as dinner, then we went to a very bar at night with Ankur, then we were back to have a good rest.

Another 2 days, we went to Mumbai beach, walked around but very relaxing, visited Dhobi ghat ( a open air laundry), we had a lot of conversation, we cooked for Ankur, his family cooked for us as well, we had very nice foods. Ankur is a architect, very nice person, like to tasted every kind of foods around the world, and also like to travel around, his plan was go to south America next year, but I told him to go back to Brazil in 2014 for the World Cup, that way I can host him as well, finally we need to go, say goodbye to Ankur, and we are going to catch our train to Jaipur, but we went to another train station to book our next tickets in advance, Jaipur to Jaislamer, round trip.

Jaipur, capital of Rajasthan, one of most interesting state of India, there is a old city of Jaipur called pink city, because the walls were always pink, we went to the Iswari Minar tower to see the whole pink city, that was a little crowd and chaotic, but interesting by the way. On the way we stopped in a shop, and there we met a Brazilian couple, meet someone from homeland was nice, and until now I rarely meet Brazilian people on this road, after some Portuguese conversation with them, we went to visit City Palace, a little expensive, but very beautiful inside, basically in India every entrance fee the foreigner pay more than 10 times than local people. After City Palace we hired a auto rickshaw (tuk tuk) to Water Palace, elephant village and textile shop. On the way back to hotel we passed by Hawa Mahal, very beautiful place, actually we didn't get in, but I think the night view was better anyway.

Next day we hired a city tour bus, to visit another places we didn't go, and specially Amber fort, this one we knew it is far from city. We visit some temples, and a very nice museum and Jantar Mandir (a astronomy place), but they didn't give us too much time for each place, this is a main reason why rarely I hire a tour package, but when we arrived in Amber fort, that place was so huge and nice, we just told to the bus driver to leave us here, and we will find a way back to the city, then we were really relaxing and enjoying the place, later we got a local bus back to city, very cheap, only Rs 12 each. Back to the city, we went to Raj Mandir cinema to see a Bollywood movies, Desi Boys, the movies was in Hindi, but that was funny to see, and the Raj Mandir cinema was very beautiful inside, like old style cinema, inclusive the way to run the movies, after one hour of the movies they stopped for a break to change the roll. After the movies just had a dinner then go to take the train to Jaislamer.

Jaislamer, place of desert, fort and camel safari, the fort of Jaislamer is different from Amber fort, in Jaislamer fort still living people inside, inclusive there are some hotels in the fort as well. Around the city there was another interesting building to visit, Haveli, a old style building full of details, very impressive. Back to fort to see the sunset, after dinner we slept early, next day we will have camel safari.

Next day in the morning at 8:30, our camel man Raj was there for us, one camel for each one, non-tourist places, and indeed we didn't find any tourist on our way, ride camel was fun, but also make our legs tired, every time we stopped Ling was almost unable to walk for while, Raj was a very nice cooker, we had very nice food and tea in the desert, the only problem of him was he always trying to convince me to buy a camel with him, actually I almost bought, but in the end I gave up. Sleeping on the dune and wake up there with a big breakfast was very nice, but a beer for more than Rs 400 there, this I felt I was cheated somehow. Raj asked us to the wedding party of his friend at night, that was a very good opportunity, we went back a little more early to city, taking a local bus, and sitting on the top, that was very cool, but I got a little scratches from the tree when I was taking out my camera to register the moment. We couldn't change our original ticket to next day, so we cancel the original to get refund and bought a new one, now ready for the wedding, Raj and his family got some clothes and accessories, made us like a Marahaja, we called so much attention around, and always made someone laugh. The wedding party was in a little village in the middle of desert, the child there were very curious and always wanted photo; The ceremony of wedding is full of detail the praying, but the most interesting part was the couple with hands tied, there was a Rs 1 coin inside of their hands, and the goal was who could take the coin. We should be able to go back to city at night, but our car went to rescue a Raj’s friend, that car cost us Rs 2000, somehow we felt it as scam again, anyway we slept in the village.

The wedding party continue next day, but we had no time for time, we should go back to city, check out the hotel and prepare to get train to Jaipur then Agra. From Jaipur to Agra we took the bus, I was with a little fever and headache, I didn't know what was that, but basically I was a little ill until the end of India trip. Arriving in Agra, we stayed in a place near to Taj Mahal, but first I was taking a rest, and we found a restaurant with WiFi, long time without WiFi. Next day we went to train station to buy the ticket, then I walked to another side of river to see Taj Mahal from the river, Ling didn't come with, he went to Agra fort, actually I went Agra fort later, but just surrounding to take some photos, I didn't pay entrance fee to get in the fort. Last day in Agra, we went to Taj Mahal, this one is the most expensive one for the foreigner, Rs 750 the entrance fee, but only Rs 20 for the local people, anyway, Taj Mahal was really beautiful one, I wasn't feeling well, but I could take a good rest there, then I was much better to enjoy the place, we stayed there until sunset, then we had dinner and then train to Khajuraho.

Khajuraho, the place of Kama Sutra, very small town, we should spend only 2 days there, but the problem was only train for next day to Varanasi, so we stayed 3 days there, that was more than enough. In Khajuraho we should stay in couchsurfer’s house, his name is Raj also, in last time his family came and there was no place for us, but he arrange a very cheap room for us, Rs 150 for 2 person, the only problem was no hot shower, I was with a little fever there, so I didn’t take shower in Khajuraho. There are a lot of temple in Khajuraho, and the most of them has a very beautiful carving and Kama Sutra position. Another interesting thing there in Khajuraho was the people, actually we met some interesting people there; a Chinese guy came from Beijing to Khajuraho by bicycle, he took 5 months; a French couple couchsurfer, they will be in India for 6 months and doing some volunteer work around, very nice and funny people; a Greek guy who was photographers and rock climber, also nice people, good one for talking. Actually we met French couple and Greek guy together with couchsurfers from Khajuraho, they was with Anju, and I spent more time with Raj and his friend Vej, Vej was very funny person, always talking about sex, Raj and Vej together made us laugh so much, that was really good time.

Arriving in Varanasi, we found a place with hot shower, we paid a little more expensive, Rs 500, but I really need a hot shower, I was almost 6 days without bath. Varanasi, famous by Ganga river, where the people come for bath, for good luck, also to burn the body and put in the river, it is a holy place, everywhere was some kind of Pooja (a pray). If I am not a little sick this time, I will take a bath in the Ganga river for sure. We had short time in Varanasi, only one night, then we are going to Gorakhpur, the way to Nepal. So we took the boat in fisrt day to see the Ganga river, next we went to Varanasi University, the environment of University is always nice, nobody came to disturbing you, later we met a French couple from Khajuraho to see the main Pooja for Ganga river, that was very nice, and they do it everyday at 18:00, after dinner together we went to the train station, and when we were waiting the train, Ling smoked, and a police came asking for money, because can not smoke, if not he will be arrested, so he was asking for Rs 1000, that was a bribe, I remembered a Italian couple we met I Jaislamer fort, and she said 3 important things in India: population, poluition and corruption, now we have all, in the end Ling paid Rs 200 to police.

After one hour delayed to departure, and 6 hours delayed to arrive, finally we reached the Gorakhpur, and then we took a bus to Sunauli, the border with Nepal, finishing our India trip. India trip was really intense, good people, bad people, injuries and sickness, my mind learned a lot, and my body learned as well, and we had short time to explore India, I will come back when I have another chance.



Final account of India:

- 24 days
- Total USD 552 (including new shoes and cell phone, and we paid too much in Jaislamer)
- Average USD 23 per day

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Photos

Holy protection
they put this on the wall, then nobody will destroy

Comments

[Matt]

I can't believe you jumped from a train and ended up without shoes and cell phone, sorry to laugh but it was hilarious ?? and you should have bought the camel, I don't know what would have done with that but it would be a very funny story.

[Way]

Indeed that was a great story, very funny after happened, camel would be nice, I will consider it for next time =)