La La in La Paz


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Published: June 3rd 2006
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La PazLa PazLa Paz

La Paz with Mt Illimani in background
The madness that is La Paz greeted us as we drove in via El Alto at 4000 m above sea level. The glittering city below us was surrounded by the majestic Cordillera mountain range and Mt Illimani lording it over us all.
Despite many warnings regarding our safety here, I only felt mildly hassled when out and about here. The markets are something else: I bought a CD for 16 Bolivianos which is approximately 1GBP. Somehow I dont think James Blunt will be receiving any royalties from this sale- I am sure that Bolivian vendor needs the money more than he does! The witches market is mind boggling. Stuffed condors were stacked up on street corners; llama foetuses, stuffed ocelots and caymans were ready for all manner of incantations and spells to be cast; protective talismans, sweets and medicines were available, but I didn´t buy any.
On the second day here I went with some of our group to tackle, on mountain bike, what is commonly known as the "Death Road" out of La Paz down to Coroica. This stretch of road was so named as annual fatalities from buses and trucks falling off the sides run into the hundreds. We
Plaza MurilloPlaza MurilloPlaza Murillo

Ubiquitos military presence in South America this time in the main square in La Paz
cycled approx 64 km in a day descending over 3500m. Just before stopping for lunch I decided that falling off my bike would be just the adrenaline rush I needed, and luckily I skidded towards the mountainside and not off the edge. Unluckily I managed to hurt bits of myself including taking the skin off my right elbow and right bum cheek. After that I did get back on my bike and make it to the end without further excitement.
On the way from La Paz to Lake Titicaca and Peru we visited the very important pre-Incan site of Tiahuanacu. It was founded 3000 years ago and was the centre of a massive empire that lasted 1000 years. The ruins contain massive stone blocks weighing tons that were supposed to have been transported from the other side of Lake Titicaca on reed boats. It is still a centre of importance for the Aymara Indians of the Altiplano who come here to worship the mountains that surround the site, and who they think of as gods.


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Mercado de HechiceriaMercado de Hechiceria
Mercado de Hechiceria

Witches´Market: dried llama foetus or stuffed armadillo, anyone?
Death Road!Death Road!
Death Road!

Stunning scenery at the start of our Death Road adventure: from the ice-covered peaks of the Cordillera Real at 4700m above sea level down to Coroico at 1760m
Death Road! IIDeath Road! II
Death Road! II

With sheer drops of up to 1000m in places
Jemma, Steph and me Jemma, Steph and me
Jemma, Steph and me

At the end with a well-earned beer
Lee, Dan and Nick Lee, Dan and Nick
Lee, Dan and Nick

With Andy being delightful in the background
Bloody, dirty but unbowedBloody, dirty but unbowed
Bloody, dirty but unbowed

Pictures of my arse injuries are available to the highest bidder
Face of a priest...Face of a priest...
Face of a priest...

...or Gonzo from the Muppets?


5th June 2006

Did I say Take Care ?? ....
Wonderful ,but scarey snaps ...scenery marvellous ..but who needs Death road when the nosh on offer in the market looks fit to kill you off anyway ! ....Pointless saying Be Careful ... Loads of love xxxx Us xxxx and Marms xxxxxxx

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