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Published: March 4th 2011
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The View from Monument
If you hike up to the obelisk monument you have this view of ocean side. Our youngest daughter lived on board with us for three years and was fond of calling George Town, Exuma “camp for grown-ups” because there are so many activities to choose from and the pace can be the opposite of the usual laid-back and relaxing cruiser style. Cruisers here seem to fall into two categories-- you love it for all the things there are to do and the convenience of services, or you hate it because there are too many boats, too much radio chatter, just too much.
So where does the crew of I Wanda fall? In both camps, actually. We find that we enjoy George Town very much indeed for its wonderful services, yet we like to escape too for quieter places. Exuma Markets has been the cruisers’ best friend for as many years as we have been coming here. In 1993-94 they provided a floating dinghy dock (I think the only one in all the Bahamas in those days), free printing of incoming faxes—as many as 60 per day with boat names called out every morning on VHF—and free well water. Today there is little need for the FAXes but the dinghy dock has been expanded, there is
George Town's Ocean Beach
I have called this the most beautiful beach in the world which may be an exaggeration-- but it IS beautiful free R O water at the dinghy dock and free WiFi at and near the store. They have expanded off site cold and regular storage so the market is rarely without most produce and dairy products and the Market has more variety than most regional grocery stores in the US (truffle oil, tahini, many brands of international hot sauce, HagenDaas and Ben & Jerry’s ice cream as well as local brands…)
Elizabeth Harbor is very large. About seven miles long and one mile wide with many different spots to anchor. If bad weather is coming you can find a safe spot within a mile or two of where you are, unlike most of the lovely anchorages in the Bahamas that offer only partial protection. While there are currently 284 boats here there are spots where you can be all alone. We understand the very protected Red Shanks anchorage has no boats in it this week and we saw only two boats off Elizabeth Island when we went snorkeling. If you want a place to really relax you need to have good weather protection and George Town offers this.
If you like to meet up with other cruisers George
The Bridge
The Main Street of George Town has a bridge over the entrance to Lake Victoria where there are several service docks for cruisers to use, including the one at Exuma Markets Town is one of a few places like Marsh Harbor and Staniel Cay where it is easy to do. Folks from back home can also fly in to these places so you can arrange visits. We are staying longer than planned, as there are TWO couples form our 1993-94 year (Pat & Mike on Impulse/Callaway and Frank & Ruth on Wind Drift) who are coming in and we don’t want to miss them. This week we have visited with Sally from Chantyman/Sassey and Bob & Chesley from Cygnet are coming in today. People are one of the BEST things about the cruising life and George Town has them.
No matter WHAT the weather is you can do wonderful beach walks and hikes on the many trails that Skip of the Eleanor M has been instrumental in clearing and maintaining. You hardly know that poisonwood exists as it is rarely seen along these trails. The beaches are magnificent with wide stretches of white sand with enough rock and coral to make them interesting. There is no trash and if any floats in on the tide someone picks it up. Not for the beach comber certainly, but you will find some
Dinghy Entering Lake victoria
The entrance to Lake Victoria is very narrow with a strong tidal current. With contrary wind you can get soaked exiting. lovely shells and beans if you walk often and watch for them.
There is free WiFi in several locations in town (besides Exuma Markets) and you can usually connect to the Internet from your boat using one of the local services. We have been paying $15 per week and the service is not bad. Elsewhere we have found WiFi harder to find and more costly to purchase. There is a pumpout boat that will come to your boat to pump your holding tank, a service that is available only in a few locations in the US.
Because there are so many boats, some of which stay the entire winter, there is a tension that seems to develop in the larger anchorages. The radio can become too much and rude “clicking” by those unsatisfied can disrupt transmissions. You hear people complaining who have lost sight of the beautiful place they are in and the warm welcome that the Bahamian people have extended to them. When we sense frustration building, we up the anchor and head out to other lovely spots in Long Island, the Jumentoes, Conception and Cat Islands, Eleuthera. All within a day’s sail of George Town these
The Dinghy Dock
Exuma Markets built this lovely floating dinghy dock for cruisers to use inside Lake Victoria. There is a hose on the dock to fill your water tanks with reverse-osmosis (RO) water at no charge. other locations offer a respite from the Camp George Town atmosphere. After a couple of weeks exploring elsewhere you may find like we do that you are ready to return and enjoy another stay. Maybe play some Trivial Pursuit or Texas Hold ‘Em. There is tennis and bridge and basket weaving… Well you get the picture.
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Charlie Gray
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Just a quick note. Macarthy's has been sold to Joe White of O'Leary Funeral Home. He is moving the Funeral Home out there to get away from the congestion on Park St. Also the dentist that has Dr. Morrow's practice is moving from Park Street to Rt 310. I think for the same reason. I am really enjoying the travel blog. Thanks so much for giving us a chance to see things we will never get to see our selves.