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Published: December 5th 2010
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Hello Reader.
The flight to Costa Rica seemed quicker than it should have been. I slept a little, but had planned to do some super introspective thinking and writing… but they were playing some Angelina Jolie film on the in-flight, so that took precedence.
I didn’t know just how different my experience here would be until I arrived.
I had a many friendly and pushy taxi drivers offer to take me directly to my hostel’s door. I nearly accepted until I realized that a bus would literally cost one twentieth the price and take about the same time. The hostel I stayed at had chalkboard walls, book exchange, and most importantly a bar. I immediately met the two hostel owners, who had, prior to moving to San Jose, lived in Boston. They moved down to Central America to run a hostel and live la pura vida (which I’m pretty sure translates to ‘vitamin water’*).
San Jose was dirtier than I expected. It was also probably easier to get US fast food here than in my home in Boston. There were no street signs, which would have mattered more if people had addresses. People would describe how many
meters away from a main intersection, landmark, or significant happening. Like,” we’re located about 200 meters North from the pizza hut, across from where that guy died while juggling in the street last year.“ The city has many parks and a love for football. They also embrace a variety of types of rice and beans that they enjoy at every meal period. The money here feels like pirate booty. And everyone speaks spanish... who knew?!
One thing that I know for sure is that when someone is in an unfamiliar environment, they will search for and cling to the familiar. I think its human nature. It’s why people travel great distances to eat at Burger King and hang out with Americans. And in conversations with others we always focus on what is similar, what we have in common. It gives a sense of security in a way. Like I don’t know much about what’s going on right now, but at least I know that we both enjoy mac and cheese and have seen blue man group. I’m as guilty as the next guy for sure, I mean my first meal here was Church’s chicken strips at the airport.
Everything we see or hear or touch is always a cousin of a feeling we felt before. We compare experiences to the past, like girlfriends who use the same perfume. Or step-parents' culinary stylings. I felt more comfortable around Mer and Brian (the hostel owners) after reminiscing about Boston life. And who wouldn’t want to feel comfortable? Which is why I’m urging you to write your congressmen and petition to have all sidewalks, everywhere, carpeted.
I was in the hostel for a couple of nights. I met a good guy named Justin and we explored the city and had lunch – at which I asked the server if they had a handsome guy discount. Turns out they did and we got our Cokes for free. If all of Central America has the same low standards, I’m totally IN!
I got in touch with my couchsurfing hosts (Mario and Andres) on Thanksgiving morning. I went to meet Mario and his other couchsurfer Tigran for lunch in Heredia, which is a town thirty minutes to the North of San Jose. We all got along great even though Mario is a vegetarian! They lived in a small suburb outside of Heredia.
The landlady lived next door and seemed to be very old and sweet except that she seemed to be screaming whenever she talked, even if she was perfectly content. She also had chickens in her yard. I was told that they were going to be eaten eventually. It wasn’t until several started to crow at various times during the night, every night, did I wish 'eventually' would come sooner.
Thanksgiving night we cooked about seven different vegetarian courses and invited over friends of Mario and Andres for a huge dinner. I was glad I had a make-shift family around that night. We went around the table and said what we are thankful for. Health, life, friends, and cinnamon toast crunch… that last one was mine.
Their friends, as one would imagine, were very cool. I’m a strong believer that good people attract each other, and this was no exception. One girl, named Erica but insisted on going by Flakita, hugged and kissed my cheek as soon as we met. She smelled like a roll of sweet tarts and was just as thin. I would spend the next couple days with her as my surrogate host because the boys
were working a lot. She was also a Couchsurfing ambassador, and it was apparent why. She was instantly open and loved meeting new and different people. She had a genuine care for others that I find is a trait present in all true Couchsurfers.
The following day, Tigran and I ventured to a volcano called Poas. The bus trip up with a bit tumultuous but the view was incredible. Green valleys and gray skies. We met a couple of Swiss travelers along the way and ended up hiking with them for the day. Daniel and Wendy had some great suggestions for what to see in Costa Rica and laughed at my stupid jokes involving wanting to find a pet monkey on our hike. Then I got very hungry and talked about eating the monkey if I ever did find one. Then I got extremely hungry and talked about which one of the three of them I would eat first… (Tigran, btw.)
That evening, Tigran and I met up with Flakita for a coffee and a walk around the city. The conversation flowed, except when we had to try and figure out what Tigran was saying (- he had
Sick
Breathing over tea, sometiems with a flag over my head. only lived in the states for 5 years, and his Uzbek accent was still strong.) We walked the city and found the National Theatre which happened to have a choreographed dance competition going on. Six bucks. It was good to see the arts in action in San Jose, I was feeling that this was something missing from San Jose, so it tilted my view of the city in a positive way.
The coughing started during the performance. The following day it became very clear that I was getting extremely sick. Now I get sick MAYBE once a year, and there is no WAY that my body would wait until I landed in one of the most beautiful countries in the world at the beginning of a year long voyage to then become sick. But alas, there I was… for the next three days solid. Watching most of the dvds I brought for the just in case rainy days I’d have months from now. In all reality, I would watch the first twenty minutes of a movie, then fall asleep and wake up in a cold sweat as the credits were rolling… pick a new movie and let the cycle
repeat. Andres’ mom got wind of my illness and made hearty soup, stopped by, and even gave a nice, long hug on her way out. Such a surprisingly warm thing when you feel so taken care of by people who didn’t even know you existed a few days before.
I stocked up on the sick essentials: orange juice, Vicks medicine, sour gummy life savers, and gushers. Must have been the gushers, because I did get better… so on to the West coast for surfing and yoga!
*never believe anything I say.
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Nicolas
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Eli!
"We all got along great even though Mario is a vegetarian!" -- very funny :-) Glad you got better so fast -- can't wait to read more of you! (that sounded dirty)