Week Numbers 3 & 3½

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Hola Amigos!

For the last ten days we have been staying and working at Chacra Millalén (http://welcome.to/millalen). This farm is home to a family (Josephine, Fabio, & 11 year old Juan), a partner (Lorenzo), and a long-time part-time resident/participant (Charles), along with two delightful dogs. There is an intermittent flow of temporary workers (like us), tourists who rent rooms, and neighborhood dogs.

The farm production comes from approximately 30 bio-intensive garden beds (about 3´ x 10´) and numerous fruit and nut trees (almond, walnut chestnut, apple, and peach). No chemicals are used for the farm´s production and only hand tools are used in the garden beds. Our work so far has included harvesting chestnuts, walnuts, and apples and preparing garden beds for the next planting. We are sleeping in an unheated room located over the kitchen and dining area. Although the family resides in a separate building, all present on the farm gather for lunches and dinners. Josephine and Charles (and the occasional guest) make wonderful vegetarian meals. In a separate building there is a wood-fired oven in which Lorenzo bakes dozens of loaves of whole grain bread weekly.

Until we landed in El Hoyo, our experiences of South America were of large and small cities. By contrast, El Hoyo is very much like a small Vermont town. When we got off the bus and started walking along the dirt road toward Chacra Millalén, drivers of the occasional car would acknowledge us with a small wave or lifted index finger. We had not walked far before a man in a pickup truck stopped, asked where we were headed, and invited us to hop in the back. He took us as far as his home, from which we had only a short walk to the farm. Upon our arrival at Chacra Millalén we received a warm welcome. The hospitality has continued, and we feel a part of the life of the farm.

El Hoyo is at 42 degrees latitude, about the same distance south of the equator as Boston is north. The name of the town means "the hole," representing the micro-climate created by the surrounding steep mountains. In cool weather, El Hoyo is reportedly a consistent three degrees (Celsius) warmer than nearby El Bolson, and is perfectly suited for growing many berries and other fruits.

El Bolson, with a population of 20,000, is a tourist attraction, especially for its thrice weekly market featuring dozens of artisans and a few farmers selling wares. In the center of El Bolson, at the edge of its main park, there is a large sign declaring the town a nuclear free zone.

Hitchhiking is a common and well-accepted manner of transportation in this region. Ari has had an introduction to hitchhiking as our way to traverse the 15 kilometers between the farm and El Bolson for internet access and other conveniences.

This week we visited another area farm, CIESA (http://www.proyectociesa.com.ar/home.html) which both practices and teaches bio-intensive techniques. We had the pleasure of spending a rainy afternoon working in a CIESA greenhouse. Next week we hope to visit and work with other area farmers.

Because we are at the opposite end of the planet from our home in Vermont, there are significant astronomical and climactic differences. While Vermont is now warming toward summer, southern South America is cooling toward winter. It is the beginning of autumn here, and trees are changing colors. The many poplar trees changed first, to a brilliant golden yellow. In the night sky, we have learned to identify Cruz del Sur (Southern Cross), the constellation that provides a pointer to due south. The constellation Orion is upside down from our Vermont perspective. And we have watched the moon wax and wane in opposite directions as in Vermont; here the moon waxes to the right, while in Vermont it waxes to the left.

Several people asked us to note the direction that water drains from sinks in South America. We have found that water goes down drains either clockwise or counter-clockwise, apparently depending only on the shape of the sink. For what it´s worth, we have found slightly more drains spiraling clockwise.


Ciao for now,
Ari and Paul


P.S. We love hearing from you (on this blog or at [e-mail]). Our apologies that we have not responded to those of you who have written. Our internet time is very limited, hardly enough to occasionally generate a blog.

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Photos

Dogs at the farm
From left to right: Tola, Piri

New compost bed
We helped make this

Statue in park in El Bolson
Amazing mountains in the background

Comments

[Rhoda]

Brazier Road featured speakers
That'll be the two of you when you get back here. I'm looking forward to more pictures and lots of conversation at our next neighborhood gathering.

[maribeth]

great photos
Hello Paul and Ari, This is my first chance to see your blog and it's impressive! The scenery is so colorful and that blue sky looks so clear and crisp, just like a perfect autumn day in VT. In fact, even reading your text I can see the similarities to the best of VT. The extra openness and hospitality sound ideal. It will be fun to hear the details of your story later. Enjoy all the moments. Maribeth

[Renee]

Thanks for the new blog
Hola! It is really funny to understand that where you are, Autumn is on the way while we see buds swelling, the peepers are making a rucus, snow tires are coming off the cars, and many more signs of Spring. The Southern Cross, wow. And the farm sounds like all you had hoped for and more. We hold you in our thoughts and hearts. :o)

[Debra Stoleroff]

Hey Paul and Ari, thanks for including me in your list. It's been great reading about your adventures. and, thanks for the draining water info... I've always wondered about that! best, debra

[Carla]

Hola!!
How is my Spanish?? I so look forward to reading about your travels . . . I, for one, will be sorry to see it end! Did you ever think of being a writer, Paul? As I read your "blog", I feel as if I am right ("write") there with you. It is so fascinating and what a wonderful experience to be able to travel together. Enjoy the rest of the trip and keep those "blogs" coming! Love, Carla

[Mary and Chris]

hola de Montpelier del este
Just catching up on your travels. We're so envious, but your pics and stories will inspire a return to SA. We saw lots of Bimbo bread trucks in Mexico, too. I see you flew on Avianca... Back in the 80's Avianca was commonly known as Ave nunca! We managed to get a free nights' stay in Bogota due to a flight that was 6 hours late leaving Quito. The airline put us up in a hotel that was by far the fanciest we had stayed in during our 7 months in SA! So enjoy your last weeks and if you miss connections may you be treated well...feliz viaje!