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Published: August 26th 2010
This leg of the journey took me to the south side of the Kimberley's then to the western side. There is not a lot to be seen between the three overnight stops taken to reach Broome, but the every changing, yet sameness in the countryside, that is typical of the Kimberley region.
Heaps of weathered rock formations, a mixture of low rise hills and ranges, interspersed with large plains, all covered with grass, shrubs, trees, rocks, termite mounds, red soil in abundance, odd groups of wandering cattle, occasional birds and wildlife, strikingly clear blue sky and the overall beauty that defies description of the Australian outback, and the occasional stopping bays.
If you pause at any of these for a moment, the silence and isolation is profound and moving.
Effectively no habitation is seen along the way, except for occasional signs indicating turn-offs to either cattle stations or indiginous communities.
The first night was spent at Halls Creek, which was the site of the first discovery of gold in WA, way back in 1885. A gold rush followed that brought 15,000 people to the area, but I don't know wether or not the AEC was responsible for counting them. nor is it clear where they all went to when the gold ran out. Presumably to other gold fields as new discoveries were made. Certainly the current population is measured in hundred's, rather than thousands.
Nearby is the famous Wolfe Creek meteor crater and National Park, the China Wall and Carolines Pool, for those who have 4WD vehicles to access.
Sunday 15th August I left early for the next stop at Fitzroy Crossing, in the centre of the Kimberley. The Fitzroy River, is one of the great Australian rivers, not to be confused with the Fitzroy river that runs through the city of Rockhampton in Qld, and can reach a height of over 10 metres above normal levels in the wet season and can reach widths of up to 15 kms. I booked into the Fitzroy River Lodge, which apart from being a 1st class facility, was interesting in that every major building and facility (eg toilet/shower blocks) was either built on poles or on earth mounds, to try and be above flood height. Campsites of course still are flooded.
The Geike Gorge National Park is adjacent to the Crossing and a short trip on the Fitzroy River through the spectacular Geike Gorge section was most enjoyable.
Monday I moved onto Derby, which was a relatively short section of about 260 kms. If you were coming up from Perth, Derby is described as the "real start" of the Kimberley region, so coming in from the east it must be the end of the Kimberley region!
Derby ,which is a Port town, was the first settlement in the region in the 1880's and eventually was used for the live export of cattle and sheep until recent times. Derby is also famous for having the greatest rise and fall tidal range on the west coast, over 10 metres at peak times. There is a big wharf in the port, not currently being used, from which the tide movement can be observed closely. Also I saw the first of the spectacular sunsets that WA is famous for from this wharf. Overall, another small town, much diminished in activity, but important as an administrative centre for the area and well worth a tourist's time to visit.
Early on the Tuesday I set off for Broome, a short and easy trip of about 238 kms.
My impressions of Broome will be in my next Blog. I have now been in Broome for 10 days and expect to leave next Tuesday (31st August) for the dash to Perth. I've travelled some 6.559 kms so far since leaving Broadbeach and effectively crossed the country from east to west.
It may still be winter in the south, but since leaving Mount Isa, few days have failed to reach 30C, although nights generally have been in range of 8C to 22C. Winter is of course the time to be up in the "northern end", but the locals must be tough people to stay here, year round.
All for now,
TRAVELLING PETE
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anonymous
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Another great read. Felt like I was there. Mary