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Published: July 28th 2010
We arrived at Firenze Santa Maria Novella train station at 06:18 to good solid Italian sunshine, after trying to sleep through a horrendous thunder storm all night. Clare got pretty scared at one point as she thought the lightning hit the train but I was far too drowsy and oblivious to notice.
We grabbed a map and instantly headed for the hostel, negotiating our way through the narrow streets and early morning traffic. We waited an age to get into the building and then another to get into the hostel, only to be told that we would have to relocate to a different building. When we found this one we were told our room wasn't yet ready and that we would have to come back at 14:00 - the notion of spending an entire morning in the clothes we'd slept in was not a welcome one, and we craved a shower.
Not wanting to waste any time, we manned-up and made our way to the Basilica Santa Maria Novella opposite the train station. We coughed up 7 Euros each and were abruptly asked to stop filming on entry. As expected, photos were forbidden too but we soon found we could
hide behind pillars, away from the prowling gaze of grumpy guards, to get some sneaky shots.
The 13th century Basilica was impressive, and offered a fine array of fresco's and marble sculptures. As we left we noticed a small section cordened off, posing under the moniker of 'Museum', and charged a further 2 Euros for a youth pass to enter. The woman at the desk was simply incapable of grasping that we wanted two youth passes and charged us for one youth pass and one adult pass, despite showing her our passports proving our age. She understood the situation perfectly well and her arrogance really annoyed me, yet I decided that on leaving I would smile and politely say "grazie", in the hope that my intention to complete a virtuous deed would bring me good karma, but then later on I may have possibly been shat on by a bird next to the Duomo - although that is supposed to be a good luck sign, so perhaps my good intention paid off?
We left the Basilica and winded in and out of narrow streets in the hope of finding the Cathedral Santa Maria del Fiore - the famous gothic
cathedral of Florence. The sun was shining bright and there was that dusty haze that I've always felt is synonymous with Italy. It took no time at all before the staggeringly massive Duomo hoved into view, and literally took our breath away. It's immensity is unrivalled by anything I have ever seen; it's beauty unparalleled. As you walk down a street towards the Duomo, it is ONLY the Duomo you see; the sheer scale of it blots out all but sky. It doesnt open to the public until 10:00am and even at 08:20 there was a huge queue spanning the length of the building.
We decided to wait until we had showered before entering and so headed past the Duomo and down yet more narrow streets. Discovering the Basilica della S. S. Annunziata was a complete accident - we wern't even aware of its existence - and although a modest, even plain looking exterior, the lavishly adorned interior was phenomenal. There were alcoves crammed with marble statues that protruded from the wall, the Dome was frescoed, the floor was embellished and even the pews - as far as pews go - were flamboyant. This was extravagance to the extreme, and
was an utter delight.
Florence is not a small city and yet, probably due to the close proximity and magnitude of impressive buildings, it is really easy to navigate.
That is one of the true beauties of Florence. Next to any given sight, there is another. You can stand at the Piazza del Duomo and see the tower of Palazzo Vecchio, Orsanmichele, the spire of Casa Buonarotti, and the Basilica del Santa Maria Novella. Down a small ally literally thirty seconds walk away lies the Basilica di San Lorenzo and Cappelle Medicee. The Uffizi Gallery neighbours the Palazzo Vecchio on Piazza della Signoria and there are so many small churches tucked away behind the walls of town-house-looking buildings. There are markets and high-end fashion stores, leather stores and second hand hardware stores, restaurants that cost you your entire trips budget and serve-yourself cafes where you can sit and eat a piece of watermelon outside Orsanmichele at no extra cost - which we did. The attractions are endless and the Italian charm is infectious. There is less of the famed Italian pride, bravado and rudeness than I expected, all of which seems to have been replaced with genuine kindness and
a friendly smile.
Orsanmichele would not have been high on our list of priorities in Florence as it is far from the most popular attraction, and had my mam not studied Bernardo Daddi's painting 'Madonna delle Grazie' which is couched within Andre Orcagna's Tabernacle that dwells within, and wanted me to get a photo of it, we may never have ended up going - and what a shame that would have been.
Orsanmichele, built in 1337, resembled a castle keep more than a church, and was free to enter. I walked in filming, as I expected it was prohibited and wanted to get as much on film as possible before being told to stop. This plan worked a treat and I captured a lot before a lady politely prompted me to put the camera away, but I was still able to get some sneaky photos.
There was a tiny staircase hidden away in the corner which lead to a floor lined with statues. Up a further spiral staircase was an almost empty room with amazing panoramic view of the whole of Florence - the opportunity to get photos and footage was not wasted as we had discovered that the
tower at Palazzo Vecchio was never open to the public.
All this climbing of stairs had made us even more sweaty as the sun pulsated up above, and we realised it was almost 14:00, so we dashed back to the hostel, still longing for that shower. When we arrived we were not surprised to find that we had to relocate a third time, this time only over the road, but when we got there the shower was incredible and once refreshed we headed back for the Piazza del Signoria.
Palazzo Vecchio is an amazing building, built in 1299, which overlooks Piazza della Signoria and has, outside of it, the copy of Michelangelo's David. There is also an impressive display of statues in the adjacent Loggia dei Lanzi, and the whole of the enormous piazza is lined with restaurants. You pay to eat with such a view and so we opt more for the smaller restaurants down the side streets further out of the busy centre. We got a pizza and a beer each for 8 Euros plus a view of the Duomo, which was surprisingly free of charge.
The pizza was mediocre, which was to be expected from such
a touristy restaurant, but it was nice to sit down and enjoy a meal and discuss Florence over an alarmingly small glass of Moretti larger.
With Love...Blake and Clare
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Father and Laura!
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Howdy!
After a good work out in the gym, few lengths in the pool, chill out in the sauna and relax in the jacquzzi, we have retreated back to fathers to 'reluctantly' stuff our faces with chicken wings, spare ribs, doritios, coleslaw and more... With a healthy dose of alcohol!! Jealous? Sounds like you guys are having an absolutely fantastic time, we're both really looking forward to yous getting home to enjoy your stories first hand.. I bet you have plenty! Off to the pub now so we bid you farewell.. Keep enjoying yourselves :) lots of love xxx oh and clare.. I'm with you on the whole cow thing, what should we say? 8o'clock on the Town Moor the day after you get back? Set them all free!!! It's a date! See you guys soon xxx