"Give me freedom..."


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Africa » Ghana » Greater Accra » Accra
June 24th 2010
Published: June 24th 2010
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First order of business: Ghana vs. USA. I’m quite positive Saturday will be a day to remember.
I watched the USA vs. Algeria game yesterday in my hostel and the victory was so sweet I could taste it. Sometimes football can be so so beautiful. Landon Donovan is an America hero. 😊
I also watched the Ghana vs. Germany game in Osu yesterday. It’s hard to even begin to describe how crazy this country was yesterday after the game, with the knowledge that Ghana will move forward. We again ventured down Oxford Street and were engulfed in the excitement. We grabbed a table (miraculously, but then again no one was sitting, everyone was dancing) and settled in to watch the craziness. Just picture about 600 people dancing like hooligans in the streets. Then, picture a downpour. The rain just made everyone crazier. It was pure madness.
Soaked to the bone, people were rolling in the streets, splashing like toddlers in the puddles and dancing, dancing, dancing. I saw the same naked guy from last time, only this time he was wearing a black and white striped thong instead. What a treat.
I watch most of the other World Cup games in my office. There’s always at least one person in front of the TV at all times, and each time someone yells “GOAL,” everyone in the office runs screaming to the TV room. 😊
The other night we went to get some drinks at a fabulous little outside place in Osu. It’s called the Container Bar, because the room with the bar is constructed out of shipping containers. Haha. Anyway, apparently it was the place to be. Every time they put on the World Cup anthem (“Give me freedom, give me fire…”) everyone would climb on their chairs and no one could help but sing along. It’s so amazing to hear that song. 😊 I don’t even mind that it comes on every five seconds on every station on the radio.
Besides football, life continues to be beautiful. Some days are hard, but beautiful nonetheless.
Work is going great. I am constantly feeling more at home in the office and I’m getting closer with all the people I work with.
I went to the closing ceremony of the Rights and Voice Initiative (RAVI) the other day, and I also got to go to a press conference for the International Finance Corporation (IFC), which is a sector of the World Bank. Sometimes I’m so amazed at how lucky I am to be able to go press conferences such as these. I would never have that privilege in the US at my age. I got to listen to the Vice President and CEO of the IFC speak. So exciting!
However, one thing I have noticed about journalism in Ghana is that there aren’t really any rules. Most press conferences have food for the press after the program, and a good number of them give you “transportation” for coming to the event. Transportation means 15-30 cedis for the cost of coming to the event, although it costs about 2 cedis if you take the tro tro to get there and back. It always seems like I’m taking a bribe to go to an event and it’s so strange to me.
There was flooding all over the city on Sunday after a long morning of heavy rains. More than 20 people were killed and something like 20,000 people were displaced. When I got to work on Monday, my editor sent me and my co-worker on a search for flood coverage. Well, we had NO idea where to go, so we just picked a place and went for it. We were unsuccessful in finding any floods (I knew we would be) but we did find ourselves in the middle of some of the most rundown areas in Accra. While our flood story was a bit fruitless, it was very interesting for me to be able to go see those areas. They are not places I would ever have gone otherwise, and I got some good photos of life there. So much trash. It was very, very eye opening.
In the ongoing adventure of using public transportation in Ghana, the stories never end.
I got in a tro tro with a TV the other day. Guess what they were playing? Yep, you guessed it; a budget, over-dramatic, awful Nigerian movie. Note to self: check to make sure there’s no TV in the tro tro before you get in.
I saw my first female tro tro mate on the way to work today. The person who takes care of the money and handles the door in tro tros is ALWAYS male. Today, however, there was a girl. I felt bad for her, because I’m pretty sure her tro tro was about the most dysfunctional one on the road. First, the door was jammed and she STRUGGLED to shut it, then as soon as we started going, the engine shut off. Since she’s a woman, they wouldn’t really let her get out to help, so they made some of the passengers get out and give us a push so we could start the darn thing. Then, after the passengers ran to catch up and jump in the moving car, every time we shifted gears, the tro tro would leap forward 5 feet. That was fun. Then, it started raining, and there was no defrost or windshield wipers, so we had a heck of a time seeing just where we were going. Then, the window started leaking and the driver had to get out and come around to the other side to close the window from the outside. While doing so, he couldn’t turn the car off for fear it wouldn’t start again, so he had to have one of the passengers keep their foot on the break while he got out to close the window. Ohhhhh boy. What a ride.
We were in a taxi on the way to Osu the other day for dinner, and we broke down 4 times between Legon and Osu. 4 times! Haha. Each time we would sputter to a halt, the driver would get out, open the hood, suck the gas out of some wires, put them back together, get back in the car, reach under the steering wheel, rub two wires together (sparks were flying, believe me) and start the car again. I could not, for the life of me, stop laughing. It was the most hilarious ride ever. The driver also thought it was pretty comical - he kept giggling to himself and mumbling something about the carburetor. Haha.
On my way home from work the other day and I saw two coffins along the way. One was in the back of a truck with a tarp over it and the other was strapped to the TOP of a tro tro, along with some suitcases and other luggage. I stared at it for a long time before it dawned on me what it was, and I think I got a few stares myself when my jaw fell to the floor. Crazy, crazy, crazy.
I’ve made some friends in the market I pass through on my way to catch a car home from work. I needed another button up shirt to wear to work, and I found this great place that sells second hand women’s clothes at the market. I shared my popcorn with them on the first day I stopped by and found my way to their hearts. They always say hello when I pass by, and they gave me the non-obroni price on the shirt I bought. I’m proud of myself for my bargaining skills. 😊
The power is on and off constantly in ISH and the showers are still cold. Cold showers are not as refreshing during the rainy season as they are during the dry season. Just saying.
I still eat egg sandwiches almost every morning, but now I’ve discovered that the lady in my hostel puts sausage in the ones she makes. Even though her definition of sausage is actually a chopped up hot dog, it still spices things up a little. Haha.
This weekend I went to Makola Market in Accra. I forgot beforehand that you really, really have to have a certain mindset to go there and not go insane, so I didn’t end up staying for very long. At least I know where it is now so I can go back later. Properly prepared next time, of course.
The rest of the weekend I spent with new friends out and about in the city, and I cleaned my room on Sunday while it rained all day. While I was cleaning, I kept the door to my balcony open while I was in and out. Bad idea. I ended up with a bird stuck in my room in the only window I couldn’t reach. I had to recruit a guy, who was innocently watching TV, to come move my armoire to get it out. Note to self: keep doors closed.
This morning I visited the primary school where I worked last year. It was so amazing to go back. 😊
I spoke with the headmistress and saw some of my kids from Class 2. It seemed like just yesterday that I was working there. I took a look at an abandoned bungalow that has the potential to be used as a computer lab, and sat down with the headmistress and her assistant to chat about our non-profit project. Things are looking good.
Ok, time to get to work.
Wish me luck on Saturday. I haven’t decided whether I am going to hide in my room to cheer the US on, or be brave and venture into the masses. Either way I look at it, I can’t really lose. 😊
Meawhile, I’m missing you all.
Much love,
Cari


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24th June 2010

GO!
Venture out!! Always my answer haha. Love your stories and thoughts.. as always. And love you!! I get off right at 4 today (midnight your time i think) and work at 4:30 at the drive-in so I would love to talk to you in between!!!!! Mmmk byee!
27th June 2010

Hi Cari, very insightful blog post. :) I arrived here by way of google after typing in "ghana travel blog." I'll be arriving there late next month and reading blogs like this is very helpful. Very funny about the malfunctioning taxi. lol. Oh Ghana...I know I'll have a lot to get use to!
27th June 2010

Do you believe Ghana beat the US for the 2nd time? Ouch. lol. But knowing we got beat by the Black Stars makes it not-so-bad! :) I agree, Donovan is awesome. He did great for what it's worth. I live in Southern Cali and I've been saying for years "I'm going to go see L.A Galaxy play." I really ought to! Looking forward to your next post. :)

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