#124 Teaching at Taizhou Teachers College, China (Qingdao, China's German City)


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Asia » China » Shandong » Qingdao
May 23rd 2010
Published: May 22nd 2010
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The Governor's Residence in Qingdao, Shandong, PRCThe Governor's Residence in Qingdao, Shandong, PRCThe Governor's Residence in Qingdao, Shandong, PRC

The Residence of the German Governor was constructed during the occupation by Germany in 1897. Located on one of the hills of Qingdao, it commads a wonderful city view, and there is no doubt, that it was planned by German architects, though built with Chinese labor. It resembles a Bavarian Hunting-Lodge.
Qingdao is a smaller seaside city of 2 Million inhabitants on the N.E. sea-coast of Shandong Province, China. At the end of the 19th Century, an ambitious Germany was looking for a place in China to continue its colonial expansion. That moment arrived, when the Chinese Boxer Rebels killed two German Catholic priests in 1897. German troops were sent in to establish their presence in Qingdao, and the Chinese were compelled into a forced agreement to lease the surrounding Bay of Jiaozhou to Germany.

Before the first frigate arrived in the bay, Qingdao had been a quiet fishing village. But soon, German officers, sailors and traders were promenading up and down the "Kaiser Wilhelm Ufer". They dined in the luxurious, seafront "Prinz Heinrich Hotel" and drank beer from the "Germania Brewery", which later became known as the "Tsingtao Brewery".

Modern-day Qingdao is a clean city built among costal-hills and enjoys several wonderful beaches, inviting visitors to its shores during the hot summer months. It is a forward-thinking city, where modern entrepreneurs are successfully establishing a kind of miniature Shanghai.

During the 2008 Olympics, Qingdao hosted the sailing competitions and had been connected with the main Olympic venues in
Modern Qingdao, Shandong, PRCModern Qingdao, Shandong, PRCModern Qingdao, Shandong, PRC

The city is beginning to resemble a miniature Shanghai, and was the location for the sailing competitions during the 2008 Olympics. Note the Olympic Rings on the lower left, and the Olympic Torch standing tall on the lower right.
Beijing by high-speed trains, travelling at some 200 miles an hour. The visitors and Olympic athletes travelled the distance between Beijing and Qingdao in little more than 2 hours, and the stretch continues to be a well-travelled route, ending at the shores of the Yellow Sea.

Sadly, my direct train from Taizhou to the colorful port of Qingdao was 'somewhat' slower, taking 11 hours, with frequent stops along the way, though in the comfort of a soft-sleeper train compartment, at a one-way cost of 286 RMB ($40.00).

I have wanted to visit Qingdao for some-time, and was finally encouraged by the commentary of Goetz, one of our two German Foreign Teachers at Taizhou Teachers College, who had recently visited this breezy, seaside city. He returned with tales of Qingdao's charms and its well-known beer, "Tsingtao Beer", first introduced by the German brew-masters in 1903, to help cure the homesickness of the resident German occupiers.......

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*****HISTORY NOTES, Tsingtao Beer:

"Pijiu" is the Chinese word for beer, and Tsingtao Beer is China's most famous beer. It is consumed all around China in great quantities.
The Tsingtao Brewery is China's largest, with exports to more than 50
Tsingtao Beer on a Table at Bayside, Miami, USA   Tsingtao Beer on a Table at Bayside, Miami, USA   Tsingtao Beer on a Table at Bayside, Miami, USA

A taste of China in Miami, USA, before the NBA Game between Miami Heat and Houston Rockets. Miami 99 and Houston 66 :-)
countries, including the United States.

On my last visit to Miami, and before watching the NBA Basketball game between The Miami Heat and The Houston Rockets, I had several bottles of Tsingtao Beer at the Bayside Tourist Area, in the heart of Miami.

The Tsingtao Brewery was built by the beer-loving, German occupiers in 1903, and its magic taste is reputed to come from the mineral water from the Laoshan Mountains. Considered the best and most expensive beer in China, Tsingtao faces heavy competition from international breweries, who invest heavily in joint ventures in the fastest growing beer market in the world, China.

The city of Qingdao hosts its own Beer Festival each August, during which time huge quantities of beer are consumed. It is possible to visit the Jingtao Beer Brewery, but only in tour-groups.******

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.....Qingdao's legacy was established as a German Colonial City in 1897, and the city is still dotted with distinctive German-style houses with red-tiled roofs and stonework, some cobbled streets and tree-lined avenues. Walking the older sections of the city, one has the distinct impression of strolling through a Bavarian-style city.

Kaiser Wilhelm took over Qingdao after
The Grand Residence of the German Governor in Qingdao.The Grand Residence of the German Governor in Qingdao.The Grand Residence of the German Governor in Qingdao.

The Governor's Residence is one of the wonderful landmarks of Qingdao. Here the German Governors lived and entertained during the German Occupation from 1897-1914, till the beginning of WWI, when it was ceded to the Japanese. It is now used as part museum and part hotel.
two German missionaries were killed during the "Boxer Rebellion", when a band of Chinese rebels from the north of China rose up to rid China of the "Foreign Devils". The Boxers were supported by the shrewd, Qing Dynasty Empress Dowager Cixi in Beijing. With her support, the rebel Boxers laid waste to Beijing's Foreign-Legation Quarter in 1900, and besieged the district's foreign population.

The siege was finally lifted by an eight-power allied force, including the British, French, Japanese, Americans, and the Germans. The Qing Dynasty government was forced to sign "The Boxer Protocol", which allowed the stationing of foreign troops in Beiing and other cities along the East of China.

The Qing Court, controlled by sly and crafty Cixi in Beijing, was forced to cede the city of Qingdao to Germany for 99 years, but it was returned to China in 1922, after eight years of additional Japanese occupation. The Japanese took over the port city again between 1938 and 1945, and the Chinese population suffered greatly during this brutal period of oppression......

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*****HISTORY NOTES, The Boxers and the Boxer Rebellion (1900):

Throughout the 19th Century, China's emperors watched as foreigners encroached further and
Interior of the Governor's ResidenceInterior of the Governor's ResidenceInterior of the Governor's Residence

The interior of this grand mansion of the German Governor has large rooms and beautiful views across the city of Qingdao.
further upon their empire. Time and again, foreigners forced China to make humiliating concessions.

Great Britain, France, Japan, Russia, Italy, Austria, and Germany all claimed exclusive trading rights to certain parts of China, and they brutally enforced these rights. They were dividing China into "spheres of influence", in fact these foreign powers called it: "Dividing the large water-melon"! Some even claimed to own the territory within their spheres.

Of all these powers, the British and the French were the most greedy, establishing themselves as the largest "Drug-dealers" the world had ever seen. Forcing their exclusive right to import "Opium" from India into China, they turned hundreds of millions of Chinese into "Opium Addicts", making the British in China super-rich at the expense of a suffering Chinese population.

Two Opium Wars were successfully fought in China. Two victories against the Chinese Imperial Army solidified the British monopoly of the Opium trade in China. The Opium continued to flow into the large Chinese cities in huge quantities with impunity for the "British Colonial Drug Dealers". The number of the Chinese addicts was staggering and their suffering can only be imagined.

The Christian missionaries too, became a dominant "political
Boxers Drawing by Koekkoek, circa 1900Boxers Drawing by Koekkoek, circa 1900Boxers Drawing by Koekkoek, circa 1900

(This is a faithful photographic reproduction of an original two-dimensional work of art. The work of art itself is in the public domain, because its copyright has expired.)
force", and Catholic bishops had powers, that rivaled that of the foreign governors. Christian missionaries and their bishops used these powers not so much to serve God, but to create a "luxurious- and 'decadent' life" for themselves.

Beginning in 1898, groups of peasants in the Province of Shandong, already on the edge of starvation due to a devastating drought and dissatisfied with the corrupt Qing ruler in Beijing, Empress Dowager Cixi, began to band together into a secret society known as the "Righteous and Harmonious Fists", called the "Boxers" by the Western press.

Its members practiced 'shadow-boxing' to strengthen their bodies and protect their spirits, believing it would make them impervious to bullets, (hence the nickname the "Boxers").

At first, the Boxers wanted to destroy the Qing Dynasty and its ruler, the former concubine, Cixi. The Qing Dynasty ruled China for almost 300 years, and they also wanted to rid China of all foreign influence. The Boxers considered the "Foreign Devils", as they called them, as a threat to Chinese culture. When the Empress Dowager finally backed the Boxers, after having sought to destroy them, the Boxers turned their hate solely to ridding China of foreigners.
Portrait of the Qing Dynasty Cixi, Imperial Dowager Empress of China in the 1900sPortrait of the Qing Dynasty Cixi, Imperial Dowager Empress of China in the 1900sPortrait of the Qing Dynasty Cixi, Imperial Dowager Empress of China in the 1900s

A cunning survivor, Dowager Empress Cixi squandered public funds to maintain a most luxurious life. First persecuting the Boxers, she later encouraged their bloody Rebellion and won the Boxer's support. Her actions began the downfall of the Manchu Qing Dynasty and its last Emperor PuYi, leading to the Chinese Republic in 1911. (The image is in the public domain, because its copyright has expired.)

By late 1899, bands of Boxers were massacring Christian missionaries and Chinese Christians. By spring 1900, the Boxer Rebellion had come out of the countryside, and blood was flowing in the capital of Peking (Beijing).

The Peking foreign legations came under siege and the situation seemed hopeless for the foreigners, of whom many had already died in the constant attacks by tens of thousands of Boxers. The siege lasted for 55 days.

(The movie with Charlton Heston about this period of Chinese history is called: "55 Days in Peking". The movie will make a lasting impression of this event. Also the movie "Sand Pebbles" with Steve McQueen deals with these troubled times in China.)

To help their fellow countrymen and to protect their interests in China, an International Force of 2,100 American, British, Russian, French, Italian, German, and Japanese soldiers, with overwhelming firing power and the most modern weapons, were sent to subdue the "Boxer Rebellion".

By decree on June 18, 1900, the cunning Empress Dowager, Cixi, ordered all foreigners to be killed. Several foreign ministers and their families were slaughtered, along with thousands of Christian Chinese, before the International Force could protect them.

On
Siege of Peking, Boxer Rebellion: "I'll Try, Sir"! Department of the Army PosterSiege of Peking, Boxer Rebellion: "I'll Try, Sir"! Department of the Army PosterSiege of Peking, Boxer Rebellion: "I'll Try, Sir"! Department of the Army Poster

Print(reproduction) of the original "I'll Try Sir," U.S. Army in Action historical painting, depicting the United States Army during the 14th August 1900 Allied Relief Expedition assault on the outer walls of Peking in China during the Boxer Rebellion. (Copied from Wikimedia Commons, a freely licensed media file repository.)
August 14, 1900, the International Force took Peking and brutally squashed the Boxer Rebellion, massacring the Boxers and looting and pillaging and burning the Imperial City of Peking, the Forbidden City and its spectacular palaces. Hundreds of train-loads of Chinese treasures and gold were ferried to the West.

The Boxer Rebellion weakened the Qing Dynasty's power, and it hastened the Republican Revolution of 1911, that overthrew the boy emperor, PuYi, and made China a Republic. (The epic movie: "The Last Emperor", will entertain you with this part of Chinese history).

'Till this day, the Chinese have not forgotten the untold misery brought upon them during this time of foreign occupation, and much of the mistrust by the Chinese against the Western Powers stems from this period of history! *****

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.....Qingdao's history can be enjoyed best by wandering the "German Concession" in the southwest of the town. Here the Germans constructed a traditionally styled train-station, equipped with a bellfry. My friend, Goetz, told me, that the train would travel directly between Qingdao and Berlin during the time of the German occupation.

Most of the sights in the German Concession can easily be visited on foot.
St. Michael's Catholic Church in QingdaoSt. Michael's Catholic Church in QingdaoSt. Michael's Catholic Church in Qingdao

Damaged during the Cultural Revolution, St. Micheal's Catholic Church has been completely restored, and occupies a prominent place in the old part of Qingdao. Dozens of Chinese couples now use the cobble stone square for their wedding photos every day. Services are still held every Sunday, and the interior of the church can be visited during that time. Sadly, I was there only on a Saturday, and could not enter.
Though Qingdao is most famous for its beaches, the city is also abound with its relics of the colonial past, and many of the 19th Century, German-style buildings survive. Red-tiled roofs, half-timbered facades, sloping gables, and triangular attic windows become a common sight during a visitor's stroll through the cobble-stone streets. It gives the old city a distinctly Teutonic flavor.

Within walking distance lies the imposing Catholic "St. Michael's Church", whose tall, twin-spires rise over a part of town filled with steep cobbled streets and old style German villas. The surrounding plaza is a favorite location for shooting wedding photos by the young Chinese couples, as the inspiring, stone cathedral reaches toward the blue sky.

Another major Christian Cathedral, the charming "Protestant Church", painted sandy yellow, is also within walking distance. With distinctive South-German architecture, it was built in 1910. With a unique clocktower and white clockface, it rises 128ft (39m).

The "Governor's Residence" is another grand German structure, and was the official home of the appointed German governor. The imposing building has the air of a Prussian hunting lodge. It is now part museum and part hotel, and once played host Mao Zedong.

Not so
The Colors surrounding St.Michael's Church in Qingdao.The Colors surrounding St.Michael's Church in Qingdao.The Colors surrounding St.Michael's Church in Qingdao.

It is May, spring-time in Qingdao, and thousands of these blooming trees are to be seen all over the city of Qingdao. Some of them grace the plaza in front of St. Michael's Catholic Church.
far away, on top of the highest geographical point of Qingdao, stands the first "Radio Station" in China, also opened during the German occupation. The 360 degree views from inside of its three large, red bubbles is made more spectacular by a rotating platform, offering wonderful city views, while sitting on chairs. One never needs to take a step in order to enjoy the 360 degree expansive panorama of Qingdao.

The "Qingdao TV Tower" also offers wonderful views across the city and far beyond. A one minute elevator ride whisks the visitor to the top, where a rotating restaurant offers a delicious meal. Qingdao is well-known for its sea-food fare.

Visitors to this lovely city can stroll down Qingdao's waterfront past its many famous beaches. No.1 Beach is the longest and busiest.
No.2 Beach is more attractive. Its clean stretch of yellow sand leads to the "Huashi Lou", a stone mansion with a turret, that was once the residence of a Rusian aristocrat. It will take days to walk the rest of the seven beaches along Qingdao's coast.

There is a modern promenade and a collection of parks along the Qingdao Bay to the North. It connects
The charming Protestant Church in QingdaoThe charming Protestant Church in QingdaoThe charming Protestant Church in Qingdao

The architecture of the Protestant Church in Qingdao is unmistakably German, and its size speaks of the numer of Germans who lived in Qingdao during the German Occupation.
to the location, where the sailing events of the 2008 Olympics took place, The Qingdao Olympic Sailing Center. The promenade, bordering the Yellow Sea, is lined with modern glass and steel sky-scrapers. Here, many of the world's grand luxury hotels pamper guests and businessmen from around the world, including my hotel, The Intercontinental Hotel.

The promenade connects to the "May 4th Square" with its much photograped and modern, red Olympic sculpture, which has become one of Qingdao's unique landmarks.

The "2008 Olympic Torch" stands tall along the waterfront, at the end of The Olympic Memorial Dock. The Olympic Torch is surrounded by the flags of the participating nations.

Opposite the Olympic Torch stand the "Five colorful and large Olympic Rings". These will continue to remind visitors of Qingdao's moment, as an Olympic City in 2008. Their colorful neon lights can be seen along the Promanade during the night, even from my hotel windows.

I truly enjoyed my all-to-quick journey to this wonderful city. But my visit to Qingdao was short, and there is still much to explore. I hope to make another, more extended visit to this lovely costal city again, and soon.

It has
The Train-station of QingdaoThe Train-station of QingdaoThe Train-station of Qingdao

When I stepped out of my train, I thought I had returned to Germany. It is a lovely building and from here, during the German Occupation, trains travelled directly to Berlin.
taken much time and research to offer you this journey to Qingdao in Shandong. I hope you enjoy this visit with me and I look forward to your continued comments, thoughts and suggestions. These will give me great encouragement to continue my efforts with these TravelBlogs. Please enlarge the 121 Photos for their details. Thank you for taking the time to read this TravelBlog on Qingdao, and I hope the photos bring you many smiles.






Additional photos below
Photos: 121, Displayed: 30


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The Huashi Lou Mansion of the Russian Prince in Qingdao.The Huashi Lou Mansion of the Russian Prince in Qingdao.
The Huashi Lou Mansion of the Russian Prince in Qingdao.

The Huashi Lou, once the home of a Russian Prince, commands a wonderful view of the Bay surrounding Qindao. It is open to visitors, and portions are also used as museum and hotel.
Qingdao is also known for its BeachesQingdao is also known for its Beaches
Qingdao is also known for its Beaches

Both, Chinese and visitors from around the world, use Qingdao as a summer resort. The gentle waters make it an ideal swimming area. This is Beach #2, and an old Russian stone mansion can be seen in the distance.
Enjoying the Beaches of QingdaoEnjoying the Beaches of Qingdao
Enjoying the Beaches of Qingdao

This young man enjoys a wonderful sunny day on Beach #2 in Qingdao.
The German Concession in the QingdaoThe German Concession in the Qingdao
The German Concession in the Qingdao

Many of the streets of the old part of the city are lined with typical German-style structures and are well-preserved. These have become famous for their shops and restaurants and beer halls.
The Zhanqiao Pier stretches 1,444 feet into the Bay of Qingdao.The Zhanqiao Pier stretches 1,444 feet into the Bay of Qingdao.
The Zhanqiao Pier stretches 1,444 feet into the Bay of Qingdao.

The landmark pier is very crowded and ends at the octagonal Huilai Pavilion. This pavilion is reproduced on the label of Tsingtao Beer, China's most famous beer.
The Huilai Pavilion at the end of the Zhanqiao PierThe Huilai Pavilion at the end of the Zhanqiao Pier
The Huilai Pavilion at the end of the Zhanqiao Pier

The pavilion is the early landmark of Qingdao, and is reproduced on the label of every bottle and can of China's most expensive and most popular beer, Tsingtao Beer.
China's First Radio Station on a Hill of QingdaoChina's First Radio Station on a Hill of Qingdao
China's First Radio Station on a Hill of Qingdao

Three huge red balls sit on top of Qingdao, and were used as the first Radio Station in China. Constructed during the German occupation, the center pavilion has a rotating floor, that offers a 360 degree panoramic view of the city.
Qingdao's TV TowerQingdao's TV Tower
Qingdao's TV Tower

Rising high above the coastal city of Qingdao, the TV Tower is visible from most parts of the city.
The TV tower in QingdaoThe TV tower in Qingdao
The TV tower in Qingdao

An elevator whisks visitors to the top, where views of the city and the ocean are spectacular. A revolving restaurant provides delicious food, including seafood, for which Qingdao is so famous.


22nd May 2010

an amazing city
Hi, Hans, I was your student last year when you teached at Nanjing Normal University Taizhou College. I went to Qingdao last summer. But I went there by bus. It took me 7 hours. It's an amazing city which is impressed me so deeply. I'm so familiar with these photoes. Actually, I also went to Penglai and Yantai. They are two cities which are very close to Qingdao. Did you go these two places this time? They are also very beautiful. Btw, you look younger than before. Have a good day.
22nd May 2010

do you still remember me?hehe
nice photoes of you and that city
22nd May 2010

It's almost like history text book.
Thanks for good information & nice photo. I live in Seoul, Korea & like travel so I always serching for vacation destination. but even though Qingdao is near from Korea, Qingdao is always skipped from my travel list because the travel guide book provide not sufficient information like you & many Korean working there informed me there's nothing much. I decided to go to Qingdao next holiday. If you travel all around China, how about visit Korea?? There's over-night ferry from Qingdao to Incheon, seaport of Seoul. You told me Qingdao was occupied by German before but now it's occupied by Korean company. There are too many Korean & Korean company due to cheap labor cost.
22nd May 2010

when did u come?Hans ,I am in qingdao,next time you pay a visit ,do call me.i will show u the city in detail.
22nd May 2010

man~ u really good at writing
hey,i have to say nice job~ so suprised u know so much stuff about China and glad u travel a lot like me. lol, i just came back TaiZhou yesterday~i am gonna travel korea at june 10th, do u want hangout do somethin? busy man....
22nd May 2010
Tsingtao Beer on a Table at Bayside, Miami, USA

omg
omg~~~ i love TsingTao~ they r hot in US big city.always sold out in NYC's restaurants. lol, party time,lets go and get beers.....
23rd May 2010

beautiful
23rd May 2010

German city in China
Hans, Nancy and I always love to get your reports. We learn so much about China from these Travel Blogs. Keep it up. Stefanie is still in S. Korea. - Fritz Z.
24th May 2010

Brings back memories
Yet another great blog, Hans! Looks like you had much better weather for your visit than I did a couple of years ago. I too enjoyed the city of Qingdao. One picture that sticks in my brain is that of locals arriving at the little dumpling cafe near where I was staying with plastic bags (normal bags as are given out at supermarkets) and filling them with beer. I was fascinated that there was no spillage or leakage!! Still luke warm beer out of a plastic bag doesn't really send my lips smacking! What about you? Sue
24th May 2010

great picture great city
30th May 2010

nice photo
nice photo, thanks for sharing them. hehe
31st May 2010

nice photos
Hi, hans, you made a wise decision, it is a good time to visit Qingdao, enjoying the beautiful scenery and the cool Tsingtao Beer, wish you continued happiness in China!
22nd August 2010

The photo of that old traditional rail station does bring up a bit of nostalgic melancholy. It's such a commom sight in Germany, as if it's been standing in lonelyness over the centry somewhere in a quite suburb of a town, could be Cottbus, or Siegen wherever, loyally greeting its few passengers every day; Whereas in Qingdao, this ever crowded station has witnessed many historical events, which might be forgotten, but never erased. Our modern life is a madly spinning roller coaster, so was it of the old time. Luckily, these unique landmarks have survived and are well-preserved. A great legacy for the generations to come! A very pleasant piece to read and enjoy.
23rd October 2010

your hometown is very beautiful
21st February 2011
VISIT TO GERMAN GOVERNOR'S RESIDENCE, #6

Na wah oh
the house look goog
21st February 2011
VISIT TO GERMAN GOVERNOR'S RESIDENCE, #3

na wah
long time no see

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