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Published: April 25th 2010
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The Salkantay Trek, is also known as the New Inca Trail but its a day longer and much, much harder. We covered 50 miles and climbed 4000 meters. It is also a lot quieter than the Inka trail, the Inka trail currently has 500 people per day on the trail, we saw a maximum of 10 other trekkers throughout the whole 5 days.
We booked on the 5 day Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu and it really was a highlight of our trip so far. It was also one of the most gruelling things we have ever done. We had a group of 14 of us mostly from England and America. We were really lucky as it was a really great group.
Day 01 : CUSCO - MOLLEPATA - SORAYPAMPA
We left from Cusco at 4:30a.m a local bus took us to the town of Mollepata (2900 meters above sea level). During the trip we had panoramic views of the majestic Salkantay, and other mountains covered with snow, and the Valley of Apurimac River. We met with our guide and cook, and loaded the equipment on horses and mules. We only had to hike with a day pack with
water and food plus waterproof jackets. The first day was an easy starter as we hiked into the valley towards the Soraypampa villages where we had lunch (3850 meters above sea level) we had to walk all day to get to our camp at around 5:30 in the afternoon. The porters had gone on ahead and setup our tents so we had a nice dinner around the fire and watched the stars come out.
Day 02 : SORAYPAMPA - CHALLWAY
This was probably the hardest day for us. We hiked up to a place called Pampas Salkantay, a climb of 750 meters taking us up to 4600. It was pretty much a vertical climb weaving your way up the mountain on the hairpin turns track. What made it really tough was the altitiude as even at starting point we were already 3850 meters above sea level, it literally took your breath away. It took us 3 hours to get to the top, but it was worth it, we had spectacular views of the mountains and the imposing snowy peaks of the Salkantay (6264 meters above sea level) which is known as the second highest point of the Cusco region.
Thankfully after that the next 3 hours were downhill to our next campsite. That night we drank cold beers left in the stream to cool and played cards surrounded by the mountains.
Day 03 : CHALLWAY - LA PLAYA - SANTA TERESA
This was the shortest day of our trek and also by now we were deep into the jungle so we were walking along tiny paths cut into the jungle and into the side of the mountains We were walking in a place called “Forest Cloudy Brow” where we saw waterfalls, thermal hot springs, fruit-bearing trees, varied flora, and birds along the route.
Day 04 : SANTA TERESA - LLACTAPATA - HYDROELECTRIC - AGUAS CALIENTES
After an early breakfast, we were ready to go, today we crossed paths with the famous Inca trail and would be walking on it all day, we started with an ascent towards the ruins of Llactapata an acient Inca site. On the way we observed coffee plantations, beautiful landscapes as well as diverse flora and fauna. After three hours of solid uphill trekking and with an altitude gained of over a 1000 meters we arrived at Llactapata where we had an amazing
view of Machu Picchu which is situated on the mountain range across a huge valley and just about visable through the mist. After this we had a 3 hour hike down to the valley floor where we had a quick dip in the river to cool of then headed to the train that would take us to Aguas Calientes the gateway to Machu Picchu where we stayed the night
Day 05: AGUAS CALIENTES - MACHU PICCHU - CUSCO
We decided as a group to get up early and see the sunrise over Machu Picchu so it meant that we got up at 3:30am!!! There is a bus that takes you up to Machu Picchu but it leaves to late to see the sunrise so we had to hike up over 2500 steps to the entrance which took an hour and a half. This was really hard work in the dark and the whole group was dripping wet and so tired after 5 days of walking. But it was worth it, our group were the first into the site that opens at just before 6am. At first we walked in and because of the dense early morning fog could
not see anything, but slowly it started to reveal itself to you bit by bit it was really incredible and for the first half hour we had the place pretty much to ourselves so could take photo´s without hundreds of tourist in them.
The actual site is massive and much bigger then the photos lead you to believe, there is also the sacred mountain called Huaynapicchu Mountain which is the mountain that towers over the whole site and also has a temple at the top. We decided to climb it early as the sun gets really hot and as with everything on the trek the going is really hard it takes about an hour to climb and climb is the right word as you have to haul yourself up steps so steep you need ropes to help you. You also have to crawl through a couple of caves on the way. The whole thing is really dangerous and one slip and you have fallen over the side and will not stop until you reach to valley floor 3000m below. I have no idea how they managed to build the step or the temple at the top as they have
carved it into the moutain. The view from the top is incredible with Machu Picchu below you and all the mountains that we had treked through clearly visible. the walk down is even worse and you have to go down backwards at some points like on a ladder.
After the mountain we had a 3 hour guided tour of the site which is how long it takes to walk round it all it is so big. There are llamas all round the site as well so it makes for great photos. At the end of the tour it was 12am and we had been at the site for 6 hours and by now the day trippers had started to arrive and the place was filled up to the levels I had been dreading so we headed down the mountain to get some lunch and visit the hot springs for the afternoon to soak our weary limbs and drink beers in the warm waters.
We had both been worried that Machu Picchu would be a disappointing, overhyped tourist trap but it is an incredable place that if you get there early to see the sunrise is truly magical, seeing
the sunrise over Machu Picchu and the cloud of mist slowly disapear to reveal the whole site without another person in sight was one of the most inpressive sights we have ever witnessed. The trek was hard work but every breath and bead of sweat was worth it!
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Emma McClement
non-member comment
Vertigo!
Hi there you two, Wasn't it scary to be so high up. Think i would not of been happy. The photos look great and of course i love the one with a baby llama in! I do have one question. It took 5 days to get up there but how long to get down, and how? Think Chel will be jealous cos i think she would love to go and look at Inca rubble! I would if it was at ground level. Where to next? Em ps. Charlie sends big slobbery drool kisses!