Advertisement
Published: April 21st 2010
The journey from Copacabana in Bolivia to Cusco in Peru was pretty convoluted, involving getting on a mini bus to the border, walking across the border to a bigger bus which took me to Puno in Peru and then another bus change that eventually pulled into Cusco at 5am. There is not much to do in Cusco at this time of morning so I went to my hostel which, thankfully, allowed me to check in super early and get a few hours sleep. I was in Cusco primarily to trek to Machu Picchu via the Inca Trail, but had a few days to kill beforehand enjoying the ancient Inca city.
I awoke ready to explore the city on foot and set off right away. Well not right away, I obviously showered etc first! Cusco is tourist central in Peru. The old Inca capital is the gateway to Machu Picchu as well as countless other Inca ruins. The Incan Empire did not span an enormous amount of time, but their architectural, cosmological, theological, agricultural and communication achievements are impressive. They conquered and ruled over impossible difficult terrain which spread over northern Chile and Argentina, all of Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador and up
into Columbia. This region is topographically diverse with high mountains, deep valleys and thick jungles.
The Incan Empire grew as rapidly as it declined with the arrival of the Spanish and their deadly European diseases. The Conquistadors were welcomed as demi-gods - their new clothes and powerful weaponry far superior to the Incan defenses. An army of a mere few hundred Spaniards wiped out an entire civilisation of millions over a short period. The Spanish destroyed much of Cusco's Inca palaces and temples, looting all of the gold. Cusco itself was of no real importance after the gold had gone - the Spanish opted for a coastal capital to keep a direct line by boat to Spain. Thus Lima was founded.
Cusco experienced a rapid revival with the discovery of Machu Picchu in 1915 and the town is once again booming. Throngs of tourist (many many middle aged Americans) are jammed onto the ancient streets, the restaurants and cafes. Despite this one cannot help but be impressed by this old city - its marvelous centrepiece being Plaza de Aramas.
Plaza de Aramas was the centre of Inca culture, lined with gold plated palaces and temples. The Spanish
took many of them down and used the blocks to build many of their own churches and cathedrals. The city has an amazing mix of Spanish colonial architecture and Inca ruins that seem to blend very well together. Buildings such as Iglesa de San Francisco, Qorikancha and Iglesa de La Compania de Jesus are awesome examples of Incan stone rearranged into fabulously elaborate churches with intricate stonework and grand edifices.
Qorikancha especially is impressive as it was built using original Inca foundations and many of the internal walls are the original Inca structures. These walls are masterfully built with seamless joins and perfect inclination to protect them against earthquakes. Just strolling the streets of Cusco, walking over its cobbled lanes introduces one to its mass of impressive Incan stonework that never ceases to amaze. Huge blocks, expertly woven together and tightly sealed showcases their masterful brickwork lining many of the surrounding streets.
Aside from soaking up the culture from the centre of town I also wanted to embark on some rafting fun before my Inca Trail trek began. The Urubamba river is a haven for rafters and provides many great rapids both north and south of town. I
signed up for a day trip that took me to the south of town where the rapids began at a mere grade two before rising to three and then four plus.
The drive out to the rapids took a couple of hours, driving through large green hills and enormous lush valleys filled with vegetation. One of the rafting guides told me about the devastation caused by the recent floods in the area and how many of the communities that live by the river here had been wiped out completely. Some of the scars are still evident with twisted trees and piles of rubble littering some of the countryside.
We arrived at the rafting camp and donned our wetsuits and life jackets before re-boarding the bus which would take us to the river point that we would put-in - about 20km away. After a safety talk we were soon in the water, cruising slowly towards the first rapids. This would be my second rafting expedition and so I was curious to see how it would differ. Our boat was a mixture of sexes and nationalities which caused a few timing issues at first (I blame the women!) but we
soon gelled as a group and hit the first rapids.
The first half an hour or so was pretty tame as we bumped over certain rapids as more of a warm up. In total we were on the river for about 2 hours with the last half an hour being the best. This was some of the best rafting I had experienced so far and was heart-thumpingly good fun. Many times we had to jump inside the boat and hang on for dear life as the raft was launches into the fearsome, swirling, violent, frothy torrent of water that threw our raft about as if it were empty. We were thrown into enormous boulders protruding from the river bed as we paddled frantically, hanging over the edge of the raft to gain control.
This continued for much of the last section of the course - the raft lurching up, down and spinning around leaving our team thoroughly satisfied by the time we reached the camp again. What also made this rafting better was the scenery, which was lush, green and gorgeous. We were rafting in an epic, deep valley with a setting of mountains, high green-clad hills set
against a crisp blue sky. We enjoyed a lunch at the camp in these surrounds before making our way back to Cusco.
I had two days left until the Inca Trail began and so I was excitedly looking forward to delving deeper into Cusco's depths. Unfortunately though I was struck down by yet another illness. I'm not sure what was wrong but I just felt absolutely rubbish for a couple of days with aches, pains, chills, nausea and a general feeling of lethargy. I had to recuperate before the Inca Trail began, which is a tough trek even for someone that is 100% fit. I blame the altitude - Cusco sits at 3,326 metres above sea level and I had been at this sort of altitude now for about 6 weeks. Perhaps it weakens the immune system if you are not used to it? Anyway, regardless, I felt crap for a couple of days, even the night before the trip was about to begin.
I awoke feeling a little better, but nowhere near 100%. A transport picked me up at 5.30am and took me, along with the rest of the team to a town called Ollyantambo, near the
Little Boy
With a sunglasses obsession at the first campsite on the Inca Trailstarting point of the Inca Trail. There are many trails that were used by the Incas between Cusco and Machu Picchu but the Inca Trail is the only one that leads directly into Machu Picchu. The trail is centuries old and a very popular way to reach the citadel in the clouds.
After breakfast in Ollyantambo, admiring the Inca ruins impressively plastered into the surrounding hills, we made our way to the starting point at km 82. This drive to the starting point took us past the aggressively flowing Urubama river and the twisted rails that gave evidence to the terrible landslides that happened here in January. Many sections of the rail were wiped out by the slides and devoured by the river below. The track is still being repaired between Pisco Cusco and Cusco city - the trains from Aquas Calientes - the town at the foot of Machu Picchu terminate here for the time being instead of Cusco city.
Despite feeling like I had swallowed a fork the first day was enjoyable. We walked along a trail which was an explosion colour in terms of the flora on view. Colourful orchids hung over the walkway making
the first few hours very pretty indeed. We climbed to a height of 3,000 metres on the first day, admiring the huge mountainous scenery and lush green valleys which fell steeply into the gushing Urubamba that remained resolutely unforgiving throughout. We passed our first Inca ruins also, which were called Patallacta. They were beautifully set into the foot of a mountain with terraces used for crops stepping down to the valley floor.
We camped that night in the beautiful little village of Wayllabamba. Accommodation all along the Inca Trail comprises of campsites that are simple but set in stunning locations. That night we camped surrounded by mountains and eat our simple dinner under the stars before turning into bed quite early. The next day was going to be exceptionally tough and I still needed to sort my stomach out.
I felt a little better the following day which was fortunate as it was the day that we had to climb over our first mountain pass called Dead Woman's Pass. This pass sits at a lofty 4,200 metres above sea level and requires an arduous climb of 1,200 metres in a few hours. Despite the crisp mountain air I
was sweating profusely within minutes but concentrated on climbing up further and further. The scenery on the ascent is wonderfully belittling with mountains and hills wrapped in wispy clouds that sail past the summits. The clouds got closer as my thighs burned near the summit but I eventually made it and enjoyed the spectacular view across both sides.
The path falls away steeply on either side of the pass and snake away down towards the floor of the valley. On either side rolling hills and mountains with grass and snow were a wonderful sight to behold. This is the highest part of the Inca Trail, but unfortunately was not the last hill we had to climb. After taking in the view and resting our sore limbs we continued down the other side of the steep pass, our legs wobbling as they fought to control the weight and balance of our bodies.
Our camp on night two was located far down in a valley from Dead Woman's Pass - another colourful route past waterfalls, crisp mountainous meadows and a plethora of flora. The campsite was called Paqaymayu, 700 metres below the pass. It was set amongst water running along
Porters
The Inca Trail irrigation channels that were channeled from the thundering waterfall at the top of the valley.
The next morning I awoke feeling absolutely terrible. Nausea, stomach cramps and a headache had instigated a three pronged attack on my body leaving me feeling like death. I managed a few mouthfuls of breakfast before starting yet another hard day of trekking. We would have to attempt 2 mountain passes today which would also take us past many more Inca ruins. I could barely zip up my own sleeping bag let alone haul myself (and a backpack weighing 10kg) up a mountainside.
For most of the day I had my head down as I concentrated on keeping going. From our campsite we climbed up steeply, pausing for a break at Qochapata - some circular Inca ruins with a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains. We left here and trudged forward again, heading up higher towards to our second mountain pass which tops out at 3,900 metres. I made it but felt worse than death on reaching the summit. My brain was screaming at my body to have some kind of sustenance to keep it going, yet my stomach had other vomit-inducing ideas.
We passed the impressive town of Sayaqmarka - a wonderfully preserved Inca town glued to a mountainside before heading to our lunch spot.
I made it through to lunch somehow, each step a gargantuan effort, and crashed out for a much needed siesta. I just seemed to have no energy left at all and all my body appeared to want to do was sleep to recharge. Whilst the rest of the team had lunch I slept in the sun, hoping to feel better when waking up.
I didn't and I spent the next couple of hours feeling ever more nauseous on the trail. The Inca Trail is difficult enough anyway but feeling ill and carrying a weighty pack (most clever people hire porters to carry their stuff) made it one of the hardest treks I've ever done. I somehow made it up to the third and final mountain pass though. Miraculously, almost instantly I began to feel better here. I'm not sure if it was first views of the mountains that Machu Picchu is nestled amongst or the thought of being so close to the mountain top citadel but I scoffed down a snickers and began to feel
alive again.
The trail was all thankfully pretty much down hill from here as well. Our next campsite was Winywina and was reached after going down cobbled steps for a few hours. On the way we stopped at more Inca ruins called Phuyupatamarka which were awesome. The irrigation techniques and fountains that still worked today showed that the Incas were great engineers able to pipe water from high, inhospitable mountains to where it was needed. The view in front was stunning as clouds moved quickly over green forest-clad mountain peaks. Machu Picchu mountain rose peerlessly in front of us with Machu Picchu resting on the other side, out of view for the moment.
As we descended the trail went from high alpine scenery where we were amongst the clouds and fresh, crisp waterfalls and delicate flora and fauna to steamy Peruvian jungle. The steep stone steps were uneven and smooth but heralded great views of the surrounding jungle that covered the mountains around us. The vegetation was thick, varied and green around the trail broken up only by colourful orchids that Jimmy, our guide, pointed out.
We finally reached Winaywayna for our final night in our tents.
The campsites had been basic all along the route but comfortable and all of them situated in dramatic landscapes that belittled its inhabitants. Winaywayna itself was no exception and set into the mountainside on number of terraces. Our guide informed us that it was here that an Argentinean girl was swept away in her tent whilst landslides carved up the mountainside, which was a comforting thought - especially as rain was forecast that night!
We had our final meal which was excellent. The food throughout has been good, considering the conditions that the cook has to work in. We were travelling with 5 porters and a cook who each had to carry everything from food and tents to enormous gas bottles to cook with. The porters work tremendously hard and have been plying their trade for some time. Most tourists puff their way up the hills with little on their backs whereas porters storm their way over mountain passes with enormous packs weighing 25kg+.
Many of them are older too - the average age of ours must have been late 40's. Their weathered faces and swollen, cracked feet (many wore just sandals to walk in) showed just how
Mountain View
Machu Picchu is just on the other side. hard they work on a daily basis. Therefore it was very happily that on this evening we had a small tipping ceremony for our porters and cook to say thank you to them for the tremendous job they do for little wages. This would be the last evening we saw the porters as they by-passed Machu Picchu and then walked all the way back to Cusco.
We awoke at 4am the following morning to make our way to the pathway that would lead us into Machu Picchu. The gate opened at 5.15am and after 45 minutes of walking we climbed the so-called 'Gringo Killer' steps which led to the Sun Gate and our first view of Machu Picchu. It was magnificent as cloud moved swiftly over mountain peaks in front of us. The Urubamba river was visible below as it snaked around the peaks. In the middle of it all sat Machu Picchu, glued in an impossibly high position on top of the mountain. It was an unbelievable sight that defied gravity that was soon shrouded in more cloud to preserve its mystique.
The citadel was so close now and we walked down further to get closer and
take in Machu Picchu from the classic perspective. It was certainly beautiful and very worth the 4 day trek to get here. It seems that each of the Inca ruins we have seen en-route had been building to this point and very impressive it was. Grassy terraces fall steeply down the mountain side leading up to an impressive stone city perched on top of the mountain. The site is actually very large and adorned with many differing buildings that are splayed out in front. In front of it all the large mountain of Winya Picchu rises up like a large book-end keeping the city on top of the mountain.
Clouds constantly wafted over the city, obscuring it from view, but adding to the romantic mysticism of the place. I imagined what it must have been like to discover this place initially - the thrill of finding such an incredible sight. We made our way down into the citadel to begin our 2.5 hour guided tour. The tour was incredibly interesting - although much of it is based on theory as opposed to fact.
We were guided past many different rooms of importance including the room the Inca king
resided in, different temples dedicated to important animals such as the condor, snake and llama as well as areas of celestial importance. Many of the areas of Machu Picchu are a complex weave of small stone passages and wide open grassy areas which is an interesting contrast. The whole area is comprised of buildings for social, regal, residential and religious use. However, no one really knows what the sites actual purpose was.
Our guide theorised that it was the last great Inca city - a hidden place to preserve their culture as the citadel was still being finished when the Spanish had arrived in Cusco. Evidence showing last minute rushing, attempting to finish buildings is apparent. Whatever its use, it is a stunningly preserved place and it is very fortunate that the Spanish never found it. In that sense it did its job well, hidden from the world for centuries until its discovery in 1915.
After a few hours enjoying Machu Picchu we made our way down the mountain to the town at its foot - Aquas Calientes. This is a horribly touristy town that is ludicrously expensive. There is no road leading here and the only means
of reaching it is by trekking or by a train route that is monopolised by two companies - Inca Rail and Peru Rail. The former is the company that one that we had tickets booked to take us back to Cusco that evening.
Aguas Calientes does not have much to offer but is in a beautiful location, squeezed in between high jungle-clad mountains and around a violently gushing river of snarling rapids. After saying goodbye to the team I had been trekking with I decided to check out the one local attraction - the thermal baths that the name of the town derives from. Aquas Calientes literally translates as Hot Water. The baths were my first kind of cleansing in 4 days so it was nice to sit and soak in the murky water washing 4 days of grime off my skin.
The hot water was therapeutic on my aching muscles. The setting was beautiful as I sat and sizzled in the water as rain drizzled across my face. Soaring mountain peaks that disappeared steeply into clouds above surrounded me and the sight and sound of the Urubamba river, full of foreboding, was deafening. I spent a couple
of hours here before heading back into town to wait for my train.
The train was actually amazing and wonderfully comfortable reviving the romanticism of travelling by train in such exotic locations. We chugged past mountainous scenery in a valley as I sat back in my comfortable leather chair whilst a trolley car served complimentary coffee (not nescafe for once!) and chocolates. It didn't take long before the rhythmic clunking of the train sent me to sleep.
Back in Cusco, I had one full day before my epic flight journey back to Brazil. I had met a wonderful travel agent that had secured a great price (by South American standards - flying is not cheap!) to Sao Paulo from where I could get the bus back to Rio de Janeiro. Therefore I spent the day wandering around the city some more and trying out the local delicacies. The Inca Trail guide had recommended a great local place that I could eat some Cuy al horno - or roasted Guinea Pig!
This furry little pet is farmed and eaten here so I had to try some. There place I went to, with a few other travellers, was full
of local people that eyed us suspiciously as we walked in. A band was playing traditional tunes as we ordered our Cuy and some of the local alcohol called Chicha. The Cuy arrived and it was quite shocking to look at. Chicken never really looks like a chicken when it arrives but the Guinea Pig clearly just thrown in the oven and then onto the plate. The head, hands and feet were all still attached so it would certainly feel like I was eating a Guinea Pig. Luckily I didn't own one as a child which would make it easier to eat. Unlike one of the Dutch people I had come here with who refused to eat anymore when it arrived.
The skin was too tough to eat but as I began to pick my way through its innards and getting to the meat I found it to be quite sweet. It was a very tasty meat but required lots of hard work to pick it apart to get at it. This included ripping off skin and limbs as well as eating a few organs including the liver as well. All in all it was interesting to try, but,
unfortunately for chickens, they do taste better.
I spent my last night in Peru having a few beers with the Dutch people I had travelled all throughout Bolivia and some of Peru with before turning in, ready for my convoluted journey back to Brazil to complete my epic (but definitely unfinished) South American circuit.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.093s; Tpl: 0.017s; cc: 9; qc: 56; dbt: 0.0569s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb
Ahmed
non-member comment
Great !
Well I'm happy you survived the trek despite your illness. Excellent blog, description and information. Just a question in my mind ... Did you have to book the Inca trail trek in advance ? and how much did you pay for that ? Thanx ... all the best :) Ahmed