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Published: April 15th 2010
Reaching Chiang Mai
After a boat, 2 minibuses, an overnight bus to Bangkok, a taxi and a 4 pm flight and another taxi, we finally arrive in Chiang Mai. The 36 hour journey was well worth it! But it was a painful, painful journey.... You see, traveling is a mysterious set of spur of the moment decisions, like that day in Bali that Chris suddenly decided he wanted to rekindle his love of Body-boarding. Whilst doing so he met Ashley and Rachael, who have been very helpful whilst we have been away.
The spur of the moment decisions also affect the way and time we travel - they determine which dingy backstreet restaurant you are forced to wait for a bus at, which bus you take, and even - whether your on the bus that gets robbed or not! Whilst our friends Ash, Rach and Jemma got to leave Surat Thani for Bangkok (a grueling 9 hour overnight journey) 2 hours before we do - leaving us to curse our luck! Our bus as it seems is free of theft, whilst theirs is ruffled through and any valuables stolen!! After feeling tired and travel worn by the
time we reach Bangkok, after hearing the news we count ourselves lucky!
Beautiful Chiang Mai
After a 500 mile flight we reach Chiang Mai, and instantly our belief that it will be cooler in the north vanish - its 38 degree out!! Chiang Mai, Thailand's second city, is a base for many types of activities - one Chris especially has been very keen on, Thai Cooking!! Our first few hours in the city were very productive, we found ourselves a Thai cooking school , which we enrolled in for two days, and a trip to Doi Suthep (the most auspicious temple in northern Thailand).
After only a couple of hours in Chiang Mai we had both fallen in love with the place! Despite being Thailand's second city the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly, much different from our experience in Bangkok (although we were only there for 5 hours!). The city still has remnants of an old wall that used to protect it from invading armies , with Chiang Mai being heavily fought over by the Burmese and Thai's, along with a moat that surrounds the entire old quarter of the city.
After a relaxing
first morning we hit the ground running, with what turned out to be a hectic week! We visit the temple Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, which is set upon a mountain with great views of the city. We both attempt the Fortune sticks with mixed success, Fay's brings news of a Baby boy, whist Chris' brings the news that "you should not go away"! Not looking too much into this we carry on with our lives as normal, baby-less and still away from home we head to visit the Hmong hill tribe!!
Thai Cooking
The next morning we are up early, bright eyed and in Chris' case slightly excited, for today is the start of our cooking course! We arrive at a family home, where our host A (her nickname, we're not going to try spelling her full name!) and her family live, to find that we are going to have quite an intimate course (only us!). Our host chef is a very friendly lady and makes it easy for those of us without any prior knowledge of what a kitchen is (umm that would be Fay!). We get taken to a local market and get
taught the ingredients that make Thai food so aromatic. The food is simple to make, but full of flavours and different aromas, cant wait to try the dishes out on friends and Family when we are back!! After the two days we have put on about a stone, as we get to eat all our dishes (15 plates of food each!)!
Chiang Mai Markets
Chiang Mai as a shopping experience is hard to resist, even for those with the tightest grip on their wallets (Chris)! The Saturday market was amazing..... until we saw the Sunday Market. 3 miles of market stalls crisscross themselves off the main street in the old town. Even the everyday street and night markets are an amazing spectacle of colour and activity. Fay makes the mistake of getting a rather uncomfortable massage at one market, whilst Chris gets to savor another Pineapple shake!! We don't purchase much, but we have a good time soaking up the atmosphere under the intense heat of Halogen lights!
Elephant Training
As we've said before, Chiang Mai doesn't leave much time for relaxing the day after out cooking course we are up
early again, this time for Mahout (elephant) training! Baan Chang Elephant Park, a good hours slog from the smog and heat of the city, is home to about a dozen elephants rescued and brought from the elephant shows and elephant ride centres.
The owner of the park, a friendly, kind-hearted soul and former Monk, puts all his waking hours into caring for the elephants, raising money to provide their 250-300kg of food per day! He also significantly reduces the workload of these elephants, who had formally endured daily shows (where some were turned into artists or footballers!), or 7 hours of continuous riding, with metal seats chained to their backs!
Our day with the elephants is highly enjoyable, even though we frequently get covered in clouds of dirt and dust from our naughty elephant! Before riding the elephants we get a chance to feed them, placing bananas and our arms inside the elephants mouth! Fay however stays a trunk and an arms length away from the gentle giants! The day climaxes in a walk down to the elephants watering hole where we get to bathe them, and bathe ourselves which is very refreshing after another stifling day of
41 degree's heat!
One day Trekking
Chiang Mai is also a centre for trekking, while we don't really have time to try the 3 day treks we opt for a one day trek which looks like fun, and provides ample opportunity to escape the heat. Our first stop however is a for the conscience, as we are taken to an elephant riding place. The elephants, having just finished an hours walk in the jungle with metal chairs and three people attached to them are ready for us to ride. We reluctantly climb aboard our elephant, who is bleeding on his head. Our elephant guide sits on the elephants head, repeatedly strikes the elephant and smokes constantly. We sit there with anger in our eyes............... No sooner is the ride over, we get off and another couple climb aboard. We vow never to participate in such activities again!
The next stop is far more rewarding, and far less emotional. We stop at a another tribal village which, whilst heavily staged for tourism purposes, gives us some fantastic views over rice paddies. The village is also the start point the walk to the waterfall. And much to
our surprise (this being dry season, a very dry one at that!), the waterfall is a strong gushing fall as opposed to the dried up trickle we experienced in Krabi! The force of the water makes it impossible to swim upto, although it provides a good workout for those who try!
The last stop is by far the most fun, Bamboo rafting down a river. Well rafting isn't quite what you might call this as more than half the time is spent jumping between rafts, jumping in the river, capsizing other rafts and generally getting wet at every opportunity! As our raft captain say "no wet, no fun!" Fay, the self appointed lifeguard becomes increasingly nervous about our safety, so much so that she abandons our vessel for some punting with some guys from Cambridge! Half way through, Chris and Cat (an Aussie on our tour) ditch their guide and try the rapids on their own, slamming into rocks on several occasions! Its all good fun, and even after an hour and a half we are disappointed its over!
To be continued!
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phil (quadrant)
non-member comment
fay cooking!!!
fay,well i knew that when you went traverling you would come back a more experienced and worldley person ,but to see you cooking is a surprise. well done chris i have been told you are a dab hand already with the old frying pan ! really nice to see you both seem to be enjoying the experience ,take care, X