Hello Nepal!

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It cost $40 to cross the border into Nepal, where we stayed our first night in Lumbini, the birth place of Buddha. There was almost an instant transformation of the countryside and of the people. Nepal was definitely much greener and the people had a more oriental appearance. We expected a reduction in standard of living, expecting Nepal to be much poorer than its neighbouring power India. This proved to be wrong on the surface anyway, the major towns and countryside being much cleaner and organised. It was definitely a welcome surprise, because by this point of the trip everyone had just about enough of the dirt and grime associated with India and its massive overpopulated urban areas.

Our hotel was positioned just outside the perimeter of the Buddha birthplace complex called Lumbini. We had dinner and listened to the chanting of Buddhist monks and the croaking of toads in the hotel ponds well into the night. The following morning we set of to Chitwan national park. Beforehand we visited the Lumbini Heritage Park and Mayadevi Temple. Here a monk introduced us to Lumbini and finished by giving us a blessing. As well as the main Mayadevi temple, many countries have constructed their own temple in honour of the Buddha. Germany’s stood out for me as my favourite.

Our journey to Chitwan was seven hours on a small AC bus. The trip was great as we ascended up and down through large forests and mountains. One thing that I did notice was the extensive deforestation in the area. Many of the people live from the rainforests and use its wood and land to develop farms. Unfortunately, as has been shown in the past this practice has been shown to be futile as the land becomes infertile and useless. I hope the Nepali government can stem this problem before it’s too late. We stayed in the Sapana Village lodge, inside the world heritage site of Chitwan National Park. It was a beautiful place with spectacular views and a great food menu that I enjoyed immensely with my new found appetite following the dreaded Delhi Belly from the previous few days. Before diner we visited the Nepali government run elephant breeding centre. There we observed the elephants breed to protect the local forests from poachers. I got to feed a small elephant who was unchained and wondered about among the visitors.

For dinner I had my first steak since leaving home. I had become a vegetarian of late and relished the inner Irish man in me, to embrace a great sizzling Rum Steak. Hmmm Hmmm. We finished and sat around an open fire well into the night sipping beers and sharing stories. The next day we had a lot of fun. We began the day by taking some local elephants to bathe in the local river. Swimming gear on, we made our way on elephant back and soon found ourselves launched into the water by our cheeky elephant. It was great craic and the elephants appeared to really enjoy it, as did we. After a quick scrub with pebbles we returned to the hotel and got ready for our safari through the Jungle. On elephant back we made our way through the Chitwan national park. Our first animals we seen where Rhino’s, they seemed quite tame around gocking tourists but I definitely didn’t want down from the safety of our elephant. We also observed some deer, peacocks, monkeys and lots of trees. With a full bladder I was happy to get back but really enjoyed myself.

Back on the bus the following day, we made our way to the next leg of our stay in Nepal. Coincidently it was also my birthday and I had the sneakiest suspicious that my tour group had something planned. Pokhara is nestled on the foot of a beautiful lake with a backdrop of snow peaked Himalayan mountains. It was extremely clean in comparison to Indian cities, but had cleverly created a tourist resort on the foot of the lake with the older/real Pokhara hidden away from any wandering tourist eyes a few kilometres back from the lake. The tour intended to stay in Pokhara for two nights before finishing the tour in the crazy capital city of Kathmandu. I decided to remain in Pokhara a bit longer to do some trekking as this part of Nepal had some excellent treks. Rosie has also decided to do a trek so we went about trying to arrange everything. Eventually we booked a four day trek to Poon Hill and negotiated a good price that included a guide and two porters. Rosie’s father was also due to arrive and join us on our trek the following evening. On the night of my birthday we meet to head out for dinner. To my surprise the group had arranged a few things and had bought me a few presents. I got a Irish shamrock hat, a strange little neck thing, and I will keep it as promised to a couple of girls and finally a special commissioned t-shirt bought by my tour leader Bu. It read ‘Happy Birthday 10-03-2010 Eoin’, with two Buddha eyes that are a sign of good luck. I was well impressed and enjoyed a great night’s craic.

On my final day with the tour I was awoke the next morning at 4.30am to climb up a mountain called Sarangkot. Unfortunately, it wasn’t just the time that was the killer, the fact I was still drunk from the night before definitely didn’t help. I staggered to get my clothes on and somehow managed to arrive on time on Sarangkot before sunrise. It had to be said, the wake was worth it and I enjoyed fresh mountain air, the perfect hangover cure! A 3 hour hike back to the hotel was very nice. However, the demon drink during the night before had resulted in my approval to take part in a paraglide at 3pm. I was positively cacking myself. We were directed to a small mini bus that was to bring us to our launch point. Up and up and up and up even more we made in the little van. I litterly couldn’t look down. I expected to have to run of a cliff or something but after a few steps my pilot launched us into the air. I really enjoyed the whole experienced and even consented to some aerobatics before we landed back down lakeside Pokhara. We waved of our new friends in our tour group as they set of to Kathmandu. Booked into a lovely cheap hotel where I enjoyed a well deserved few rest days before my trek.

My experience of trekking to date has been limited to climbing the Carn Mountain back in Slaughtneil! So, to say I was well equipped to take on the Annapurna Mountains of Nepal was a gross over-estimation. I set of early on the Sunday morning to begin the hike with Rosie and her father Mike. They had similar levels of experience to me, which wasn’t a lot. The hike was to be four of the best and worst days of my life!! Read on….

Day one of our trek to Poon Hill began at Nayapul, a small shopping village where mountain folk come to get food etc. to feed their families and animals. Everything used in the mountains must be carried by man or donkey up the mountain. As a result equipment and food etc. up the mountain can be quite expensive. We travelled to an altitude of 1500m, which wasn’t too bad for a first days trek. I found it quite easy and was really enjoying the experience. Our first night was spent in a small hamlet called Tikhedhunga. Up the mountain everyone stays in tea houses, which are very basic accommodation with washing facilities and small food menus. Ironically on my first night I met a lady from Lisburn, small world! I had a very poor nights sleep on an extremely hard wooden bed. This wasn’t ideal preparation for a difficult day two which included 3,700 steps! I also wasn’t feeling very well, but put that down to lack of sleep etc.

As day 2 unravelled I became more and more sick. I felt very weak, and lagged behind everyone where I had lead the way on the first day. It was very difficult work but the beautiful scenery and rhododendron in blossom all around helped push me on. We trekked for a good 6-7 hours and eventually reached Ghorepani, 2750m. I didn’t eat much and got to bed early to arise for sunrise on Poon hill the next morning. I shook all night and run back and forward from the toilet. It was a long night! However, the morning of day three was the worst day. At 4.30am I woke to get ready for the final ascent to Poon hill. I basically was hallucinating, shaking uncontrollably and feeling really unwell. I tried to express how I felt to my guide but given the early hour and the language barrier I don’t think he understood. I felt a million miles from home! Determined to reach Poon Hill I decided to give it one last lash to the top of Poon Hill. In darkness we made our way up the mountain, but even after ten minutes I was physically exhausted! I really struggled all the way. Five minute walks and ten minute rests. We eventually reached the summit of Poon hill at an altitude of 3,200m. I took a few pictures of the sunrise but unfortunately didn’t appreciate the experience as I should have. I made my way back to the teahouse alone and slept a little. The guide came to my room shortly afterwards and brought me to a nurse to get some medical treatment. I had a small temperature and was quite dehydrated! The local remedy was coke and salt and plain food. First on the menu was garlic soup! It was dam rough! The decision was made that I was able to continue the trek rather than going back down the mountain.

Day three was done at a very slow pace on my behalf. I had moments of sprinting prowess where I had to make haste to the nearest toilet but I got through day 3 okay. As the day went on I gradually found a little more energy. My guide was very vigilant throughout and helped choose some lovely horrible things from the food menus to help with the Diarrhoea. I was very thankful to reach Tadapani, for the last night on the mountain. The final day was all down hill and to help my spirits it was also St. Patrick’s Day. With a little of his help and wearing my new shamrock hat, I enjoyed a great day of trekking. I was very happy to get back to Pokhara that night and enjoyed a couple of St. Patrick’s Day beers to celebrate. It definitely was an experience, and although it didn’t turned out as I hoped, nothing could have reduced the impact of the beautiful views and people everywhere you looked.

I said farewell to Pokhara and headed to Kathmandu to meet up with my second tour group. If you haven’t already heard, my much anticipated trip to Tibet has been cancelled by the Chinese government. It’s the anniversary of the migration of the Dali Lama from Tibet, so all border crossings into Tibet have been stopped. I have been given an alternative trip to Bhutan. It involves five days in Bhutan and the 10 days around Kathmandu valley. I hope to tell you all about it in my next blog.

Cheers Big Eoin.

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Comments

[Seemore]

Nepal,
We crossed the border at LImbini. Can't really tell you much about the other locations. Be aware of the new INdian VISA rules. If you leave India its hard to get back in. Loads of people are getting caught out with the new changes. All older VISA's are invalid. Nepal is very expensive as a country to travel through. 23% added to all food! Similar prices to home. If I was to return to Nepal again I would base myself in Pokhara and not Kathmandu. Much clearer and better treks. Kathmandu valley is very smoggy! HOpe this helps!