The Education

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On Thursday morning we got up at our leisure which really is one of the best things about vacation...no real schedule or timetable! We had another great breakfast - no monkeys this morning though, they had eaten already!

At 9:45 am we were picked up to go on our coffee plantation tour. Originally, we weren't going to do a coffee tour, but Ivonne at the Lodge recommended it and said that it was an activity well worth it. So, off we went. I climb into the mini van and the only seats left are backwards...um, this is not going to go well with my motion sickness. And of course, the paved road quickly ended and onto the gravel we went. Let's just say I was very happy to arrive at the plantation.

We pulled in and I was expecting to see some sort of wide open space with coffee plants all around. Instead, we're still on the side of a mountain and we're surrounded by coffee plants (ok, really they are more like trees), banana trees and sugar cane. Turns out that you need the two latter in order to grow the coffee. We pull up to a large building which is the main building used for the tours. Its also the place were they serve a limited lunch and lots and lots of coffee! Now, I am not a coffee drinker, but the more I have here, the more I like it. So, before we even begin the tour, I'm trying a cup of the light roast. Well, turns out the lighter the roast, the more caffeine is in it. Let's face it, I don't need any caffeine, I'm naturally caffinated! But boy oh boy, was it good!

The tour started after a few minutes with Raymond as our guide. Turns out he's a 5th generation coffee farmer. And, his grandfather worked with Don Juan, the owner of the coffee farm we are at. Its a business that families in Costa Rica stay in for generation after generation. With the way businesses have changed in the US, it was refreshing to see this. Anyhow, the tour began with the coffee plant and how the beans grow. Turns out they are called cheeries and for the most part, look like cherries. In the center of one cherry are two coffee beans. As he's talking all I can think about is how many cheeries it must take to make one cup of coffee! The coffee plants are really more like trees. They can get up to 5+ ft tall. That's a tree! From here, we went to the garden area where they demonstrate how each tree starts. One coffee bean grows a tree and you don't plant them, you just drop them on the ground. Then, the farmers lay banana leaves over the top. And you wait for your plant. Pretty cool and simply stuff! The banana trees also provide much needed shade for the coffee plants. This is why you always find the two growing together. From here we went to the area for a picking of the cherries demo. The Costa Rican government has implemented several rules/laws as to how coffee pickers are paid. Therefore, everyone is paid on a fair and balanced scale. They are given baskets to wear while picking the cherries and then they put them into the government regulated box at the end of the day. The pickers are paid per # of boxes they fill. We also had a chance to pick some of the cherries. The next phase was the cleaning and drying of the beans. The beans are covered in a couple of layers of film and first they are soaked in water, then drained and dried in an open space in the sun. They sit out for a couple of weeks. After that, the second layer of film/skin falls off and the bean is ready to be roasted. How they roast it, light, medium, dark or espresso also determines the level of caffeine. The longer they roast it, the less caffeine. So, those of you drinking espresso...not getting that much caffeine. :-) After they roast the beans, they bag them and put them into ox drawn carts to take the bags to the town or distribution place. Of courese, now, they drive them there in a truck, but we got to see the old school way. While the coffee process was cool, what I liked better was how during the entire process, nothing went to waste. The dried skins from the beans are used to feed livestock or sent into San Jose to be used to make paper. Costa Rica as a whole has a great approach to this, but I think the coffee farmers are making this choice on their own. After the tour, we had some more coffee. The medium roast turned out to be my favorite in taste. I talked to Raymond a bit about it and said how I love the coffee in Costa Rica but not so much in the US. He said that's probably because the Costa Rican coffee has a naturally sweeter taste. This guy just met me yet he knows I'm a sweet addict. Awesome! Mom bought herself a few goodies including coffee to bring home to Dad. Those two are some serious coffee drinkers and I'm pretty sure the Costa Rican brew will over take Dunkin Donuts as their new favorite! For something we didn't think we wanted to do, we both found the tour extremely interesting and enjoyable!

Once back in town, we had a great lunch and then relaxed a bit before our next adventure. Also recommened by Ivonne and by Ron and Gretchen (our Cloud Forest hikers) we were off to Las Brisas. This is a private owned farm and horse back riding tour. It was supposed to be about a 2 1/2 ride. It started off with another fun van ride. This time, our driver didn't speak any english and we picked up a random woman, what appeared to the drivers friend, along the way. They were chatting in the front seat and she was showing him photos of her son at a school event. It was really neat to see. Once at the farm, we were greeted by several people...none of them spoke english. Mom and I signed a form that was written in english and were then directed outside. Since mom hasn't riden in years, I was trying to tell our tour guide that we didn't want to canter or gallop while on the tour, only walk. I don't speak spanish, he doesn't speak english...let's just say this was one of those using motions kind of discussion. After a few moments, it was all figured out! I'm not trying to remember all of the spanish words that I know to make sure we make it through the next several hours. Our guide is also the father/owner of the farm. His daughter who was maybe about 12, went with us on the ride. Before we set out he pointed at mom and asked "momma?" to which I responded si. And off we went. We went through the backside of their land where they grow wheat and sugar cane. The ride was through the hills or really mountainside and so for the first part of the trip, we went up and up and up alot. We crossed through areas and saw their dairy cows. Cow was one english word our guide knew which was fun! We also saw several other horses. Even a few all white ones...I think those are just beautiful! We were in and out of fields, forest areas and over creeks. The scenery was breathtaking. At times, we could see all the way to the Pacific Ocean including the Nicoya Pennisula. We could also see far north to where a few volcanoes sit. A few times, we would pass these huge mounds of dirt. Upon closer examination, we realized they were ant piles! When I say they were huge, they were HUGE! Like at least 3 ft high! And even from the view up on the horse, the ants were equally HUGE! I was glad this was not a moment to dismount. We continued on our journey and came to another small area of trees. Our guide was pointing into the tree and trying to tell me something. I was searching through the tree and finally saw what he was pointing at...a sloth! Now, this is my Costa Rican moment! I really wanted to see a sloth and was so excited. After twisting in my saddle and snapping a couple of photos, I got off the horse while our guide and his daughter shook the tree a bit to see if the sloth would move. Sure enough, he did! I was like a popperatzi photographer to this sloth! Poor thing is just laying in the tree minding his own business and I come along to disrupt his perfectly calm and slow afternoon. Now, yes, part of me felt bad, but then, when he reached with his front paw for a branch to move to the next tree...it was all worth it! The sloth actually moved from one tree to the other and settled back in again. It was fun to watch and completely made my trip! After this exciting stop in our ride, we continued upward on a path. After a little ways, we were at a clearing and the top of the mountain! Without even realizing it, we had riden through and up to an area that was overlooking all of Santa Elena and out the other direction to the Pacific ocean. It was breathtaking and we were back in the wind! The views were spectacluar and the wind was howling. We got off the horses for a bit of a break. Mom and I realized at this point that our bottoms were getting sore. Our guide and his daughter took a seat off to the side and to my surprise, were using their cell phone. I was shocked. Here we were on the top of a mountain, no cell phone tower in sight and they are on talking on the phone. Amazing! We were back on the horses a few minutes later. Mom, being only 5'2" was having a bit of trouble getting back on the horse. Our guide, noticing the issue, told her to wait, walked the horse over next to a large stone and had mom get on from there. It gave mom about a foot and a half of extra height. It was one of the nicest things I've ever seen. Once back on the horses, Mom and I realized that since we'd gone up the hill, we'd have to go back down...and down we went. Some of the decends were pretty steep and there was a lot of leaning back in the saddle. My horse was a little excited at points and tried to canter a bit. I had to keep pulling him back in so that we stayed at a safe pace. The views continued to be tremendous and we continued to love the ride. The sun was starting to set and affording us just beautiful scenes. As we neared some of the pastures we passed earlier in our trip, our guide was picking fresh guava's for us to eat. Guava off the tree...I'm pretty sure this is a no-no in terms of keeping the stomach in a happy place. On our second one, I looked back at mom and said, I'm not sure we should eat this...she was like, oh well, I finished mine and it was good! I love it! We also saw the white horses again and found out that it is a mother and her baby. Well, it wasn't a baby horse anymore, but you know what I mean. By the time we were back at their home, my legs were aching. Mom came down from the horse and could barely walk. She was laughing and our guide was laughing with her and pointing to his legs and buttom. Again, such an awesome interaction! We were taken back inside and treated to homemade cheese quesadilla and some sore of turnover covered in coconut. It was sweet and good! We also had a pitcher of homemade lemonade that is by far the absolute best I've ever had! After a few minutes, our guide came back and invited us to follow him into his backyard. Here, we met the resident turtles, looked a beautiful flowers and tried several different herbs they grow fresh. We were also given some homemade liquor to try (was it good...well, it warmed your insides that's for sure!) and mom drank more than me! When I say more...it was like my one tiny sip to her two tiny sips, but still...first the police...now she's drinking more...I'm just saying... Then they squeezed fresh sugar cane juice for us to try. This was awesome! I know, shocking that I would like something sweet :-) Then we got to see the veggie garden and at this point explained that mom was Italian and the cook in our family. They liked hearing that. We finally ended out tour of their garden and were back at the front of their property waiting for the taxi van to come back. We kept thanking them for what was an unforgettable adventure! This could have been the coolest part of our trip.

The ride back to the lodge was pretty easy. I didn't feel quite as sick...maybe it was the liquor...It was after 6 pm when we got back so we headed out for another great meal! This time we also tried the fresh juice drinks they make. The serving was huge, but they were delicious! Another good meal, after another great day of activities...I'm telling you, Costa Rica is a great place to visit! Once back at the lodge, we collected a couple of beers from the reception desk and settled in for the night. We have a very exciting Friday ahead!

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Photos

Mom planting coffee beans
Being the coffee addict she is, I'm sure she will have to make a trip back to see how her plant is coming along!

Us picking the coffee cherries!
I think they give you coffee before you start the tour so you're all amped up for the work you do later...

Me, the wagon and the Ox
I think I'm safest at this end...can you see the horns on those things?!?!?!?

The Sloth
This is the sloth reaching for the next branch!

On top of the mountain
In the background you can see Santa Elena and Monteverde.

Comments

[Elise]

My kind of day!
Such an awesome day...coffee, horses, sloths, fresh food...... AWESOME! :)