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Published: February 9th 2010
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Monday the 25th of January we travelled from Cusco to Puno on a tour with Inka Express. Along the way we stopped at Andahuaylillas, Sicuani, La Raya, and Pukara. We left Cusco at 7am and pulled into Puno at 7pm. Along the way the views were either beautiful or heart wrenching. The mountains and countryside was absolutely breathtaking, but there was also tremendous devastation and destruction from the flooding and landslides the first half of our journey. Such beauty and such tragedy!
Our first stop was to the small town of Andahuaylillas to visit a small church, which was said to be the Sistine Chapel of South America. The church, both inside and out, was beautifully painted with murals and motifs from floor to ceiling. When we visited, the church was undergoing what appeared to be an extensive restoration project likely to last for quite some time. The town itself was picturesque with a small square, trees and plants, and tiled roofed houses all cradled by mountains in every direction.
Next on our journey we stopped at Raqchi, a pre-Incan archaeological site. There was the remains of what was a ceremonial center dedicated to the sun god. The structure
was nearly destroyed by Conquistadors as they made their way through Peru fighting to claim the lands and convert the natives. What remains of the original structure is most of the center wall, and some of the inner pillars and outer walls. There also remains a fair amount of the foundations of surrounding structures, part of the surrounding defensive wall, and most of the grain storage buildings.
After Raqchi our next destination, after a buffet lunch at Sicuani, was La Raya. La Raya was the high point of our journey at an altitude of 4335 meters (approximately 13,000 feet). From here we took a few minutes to view the surrounding snow covered valley and mountains, and to throw a few snowballs.
Our tour brought us next to the small town of Pukara, which is also a culture group that dates to 1600 BCE (before common era or before Christ). While at Pukara we visited a small museum that interprets the Pukara culture.
Our final stop and destination was to Puno, situated next to Lake Titicaca and at an altitude of 3810 meters (12,573 ft). From Puno we visited the Sillustani burial towers, the Carlos Dreyer Museum, two
of the Uros floating islands, a Colla family, and Taquile Island.
Sillustani burial towers were said to have been built upon sacred ground because of the location next to both mountains and a lake. The situation was symbolic of father sun, mother earth, and mother lake and/or the upper, natural, and lower worlds. The towers were constructed by local cultures both before and during Inca rule. After touring the site we had the opportunity to visit a local family from the Colla culture. We were welcomed into and given a tour of the family home. The family spoke the Quechua language and raised crops and animals for subsistence and also produced handcraft items to sell to travelers visiting the area.
The Carlos Dreyer Museum was a block off of Puno’s main square. The museum has on display a collection of ceramic and gold pieces from the Pukara culture as well as artwork and pieces from the modern and colonial eras.
On Wednesday the 27th of January we visited the Uros floating Islands and Taquila Island with a local tour company. The tour began at 6:30 in the morning and lasted until 5:30 in the afternoon.
The
floating islands were constructed from reed that grows in the shallow areas of Lake Titicaca. It was definitely strange to step off of a boat and onto what was essentially an island made of piles and bundles of reed grass. Fortunately, the ‘ground’ was sturdy and I neither fell through nor sank to the bottom of the lake. All of the homes on the island were likewise constructed from reeds. The people who live on the island generate electricity from solar panels and, like most villagers elsewhere, produce handcraft items to sell to visiting tourists.
Taquile was a natural island located two and a half hours by boat towards the center of Lake Titicaca. The town, of the same name, was located on the top of the island, which was basically a big hill. To visit Taquile village travelers must first hike up to the top of the island; quite a hike, especially given the high altitude. From shore to hilltop, it was over 500 steps. The islanders are well known for their intricate textiles. While in the town square we had the opportunity to visit the island cooperative shop where visitors can purchase the handmade textiles, which were
beautiful and very well priced.
The following day we flew from Julica airport (45 minute drive from Puno) back to Lima. It was very refreshing to be back to sea level where it was much easier for us to breath, but not so great to return to the congestion and pollution, which makes it nearly equally difficult to breath. Such is life; win some and lose some.
We had a wonderful month in Peru. Lima was full of museums, parks, restaurants, shops, and churches. And, 75 degrees in January is just awesome!
We are certainly fortunate to have family in Lima and feel blessed to have had the opportunity to become acquainted with them and celebrate New Years and the wedding of Angela and Miguel in their home. Our thanks go out to the Cuba Cusquisiban Family for welcoming us into their home and their family. We had a wonderful time!
Cajamarca was clean, green, and beautiful; like Wisconsin, but warm and surrounded by mountains. Okay, not so much like Wisconsin, except for the green pastures, cows, and fresh air. If nothing else I was happy to be reminded of home.
It was equally educational
and enjoyable to tour the many archaeological sites throughout Peru. The sand dunes surrounding Ica were stunningly surreal. The Colca Canyon and the mountain valleys of the altiplano were majestic and beautiful. We did not visit all of the places we would have liked to, but we definitely toured a fair portion of the country and we have reason to return.
We counted our blessings many times, especially after having been hours ahead of so much tragedy for many days. While in Arequipa we were slowed by a bus strike and had to rethink our travel plans. Because of the bus stop we decided to first go to Cusco and to Puno thereafter. Had we went to Puno to first we may not have made it to Cusco at all because transportation to and from was cancelled due to the natural disasters. Or, if we made it to Cusco after Puno, we could very well have been stranded at Machu Picchu, Aguas Calientes, or somewhere along the way. Or, even worse still, we might have been toppled by a landslide or washed away by a flash flood. The gods are on our side 😉
We spent three
days in Lima before returning home to Wisconsin. We love to skip winter, but it is always nice to return home, even in the winter!
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Jim Albert
non-member comment
Dreams can come true
Hi Leila, Reading all your blogs, which have such descriptive detail and pictures of all the places you visit give me great satisfaction. It's like reading any good book which wisps you away into what for me is a land of fantasy, places I would love to go, but probably never will. And for you, MUST BE A DREAM COME TRUE. Your blogs are like reading two stories in one because it tells about your personal experiances during your travels as well as a story about those places you visit and their people AND you do it well. You are very gifted Leila and it makes me proud that we bear the same last name. I'm so happy that you are able to follow your dreams and I wish you the best of the best always. Hugs, Uncle Jim