Hiking in Sintra

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The day dawned as what I've come to believe is a typical winter day in this part of the world - overcast, occasionally drizzly, but warm (60s) unless the wind whips up. Matthew said that this would be a nice place to live simply because the temperatures are so moderate. That is its appealing aspect (although I still say I would choose Prague as a place to live, if I were to choose some non-Portland place). We wore our lighter jackets, more suitable for rain, hoped that the clouds would hold off on their forecasted showers for at least a few hours, and headed for the bus. We were told to take the 418 to Sintra, so that is what we did. It seemed a expensive (7e per person round trip) for a bus fare, but it probably would've been about the same had we taken the train to Lisbon, walked to another station and taken another train to Sintra. (And this way was probably a bit more direct.) Besides, we usually take one day-trip away from our main destination, so we'll consider this that day trip (even though it's a lot closer than our day trips usually are). It did take us the full day to journey there, walk around, and journey back.

Sintra was filled with tourists from all over. The town is cute and charming and its attractions are plentiful for such a small area, making it easy to see why modern-day Sintra is built upon the tourism industry. We saw more shops lining the streets selling souvenirs than anywhere else on this trip (but I've been a good girl and have stayed out of the shops - no buying souvenirs this trip! Just good memories and pictures). There were numerous cafes, including one named after Lord Byron (who apparently loved this city), and cars and tour buses as far as the eye could see. We knew from our guidebooks that Sintra's claim to fame was as a retreat for the wealthy and the nobility. It also boasted numerous palaces - now also tourist traps. Because the palaces charge an entrance fee we did not want to go inside, just look around and take some pictures. Of course to get to the Pena Palace and the Moorish Castle, one needs to either take a taxi, a bus, or walk. We decided to walk. We had no idea what a hike it would be! We followed the signs to Pena Palace, climbing a steep, narrow, paved road and dodging traffic and bicyclists the whole way. I am sure the drivers thought that we were crazy, and there was a point in our hike in which I was inclined to agree. We looked up and realized that the Moorish Castle (built pre-12th century) on the top of the hill was still a long distance away - and we were planning on climbing to Pena Palace, which was even further. (It was on this hike that Matthew decided we could write our own guidebook called “The Cheap Masochist's Guide to Europe.”) After a long trek (in which I had flashbacks to walking at Ha Long Bay because of the temperature, overcast sky, and extreme humidity), we finally made it to the top. The view, or what we could see through the mist, was spectacular, and so we enjoyed it for a moment before beginning the trek down. As it turned out, the trek down was a bit more straightforward - we could take a trail past the Moorish Castle and it would only take about half a mile before we were back in Sintra. It was half a mile of wet cobblestone stairs, so it took a while, but it was much more direct and we made it to town without feeling too winded.

Back in town we walked a bit to see what we could see and search for a place to eat lunch. Being a tourist town, some of the restaurants and cafes were a bit expensive (at least for what they were offering), so we ended back at the train and bus station. Pizza Hut almost became the meal of the day - and it probably would have been good after our experience with the mall food Pizza Hut yesterday - but we found a Chinese restaurant across the street. After looking at the menu and seeing that the food names looked authentic - no Kung Pao Chicken, General Tso's, or deep fried orange chicken for these American tourists, thank you! - we decided to try it. The food did not disappoint! We split a spring roll and I had an omelet with shrimp and vegetables while Matthew had rice with squid and mushrooms. The chili sauce was nice and spicy and the food was good and very filling - we had a hard time finishing everything. And yes, it was authentic, more like Powell's Seafood than Chen's Chinese Kitchen. Yum!

We barely missed the bus back to Estoril, so we sat in the bus stop and waited for the next bus, thankful that we brought along reading material. With all the train rides and bus rides and metro trips we've been able to do quite a bit of reading on this trip, which is nice. And I think that for the first time in my travel experience I have managed to pack just the right number of books.

We arrived in Estoril as the rain started...and then stopped. I'm not sure it can quite make up its mind, but that's okay with me. We walked up to our hotel and made it without getting soaked, so that was a small victory for a day that had a wet forecast. Now we sit here trying to relax a bit, rest for a while. Matthew's icky bug seems to have turned into a head cold, so he's not a happy camper. I feel a bit of the sore throat that he had and have a lingering headache that I hope a good night's sleep will cure. Tomorrow is our day to explore Estoril and Cascais, so we want to be well-rested.

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Photos

Moorish Castle in Sintra
We have to walk all the way up there??

Sintra
A view from the hilltop near the Moorish Castle in Sintra

Do we look winded?
This was taken after our hike up -- and then back down -- the hill to see the castles above Sintra.

Comments

[Lani]

Sintra!
I think the ceramics they make there are exquisitely beautiful. Bought one to give to a friend and then couldn't part with it once back again. I'll try to keep up with this. You're so smart to do this as you go along, photos and all. Don't forget to try to drop by "Hogan's" for a quick half and a packet of crisps. I'm coming to Portland, hopefully staying with you, Jan. 12. Sam said he'd pick me up. I want to go see my friend Joan in Myrtle Point and may try to fly with her husband 1/13 when he goes back home. Love!