Big Ice: Perito Moreno Glacier


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Published: December 27th 2009
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Our first view of Perito MorenoOur first view of Perito MorenoOur first view of Perito Moreno

Are we really going hiking on that?
Chuck is napping so I'm solo for this entry! The glacier itself and the sun and clouds on the amazing array of blues and greys produced by the ice meant that Chuck took over 400 photos that day. It was a "gap day" between our adventure in Torres del Paine and our Christmas week in the Falkland Islands, but it ended up being one of our most exhilirating days! We felt like we were coming home when we arrived back in El Calafate, with the familiar short-legged stray dogs and the amazingly helpful hostelkeepers at Che Lagarto. The tour bus picked us up at 7am and took us to nearby Los Glaciares National park. We did the walkway tour of the glacier, thinking "are we really going hiking on that vast, intimidating expanse of ice?" We then boated over to the glacier and were fitted for crampons (big heavy iron ones unlike the lightweight flexible ones our guides wore! Apparently ours were made by a local metalworker). We hiked for about an hour up to an area that was flat enough to walk on and away we went! We were happy to see that the guides were taking us on a
Ice as far as the eye can seeIce as far as the eye can seeIce as far as the eye can see

In the distance are the Andes and Chile
more strenuous route than we had initially pictured. We were going up and down valleys, across crevasses and through fast-flowing streams carved out of the ice. We got lost at one point and it took the guides about 15 minutes of climbing up the nearby peaks of ice to determine the best route to the center where we were to eat our packed lunch. We were on the glacier for about 3 hours and it still stretched on before us. It takes about 4 days to walk to the end, which takes you over the Andes into Chile. As an added final touch, we were served whisky chilled with glacier ice on the boat back! A great way to get up close and personal to the daunting glacier, and Chuck's appetite is now whetted for ice climbing back home (GREAT!) That night we took the 3am bus to Rio Gallegos where we had a 5-hour stopover (enough time to have a cafe con leche and explore the colourful little town which is capital of Santa Cruz province) before our bus to Punta Arenas in Chile. We had an amazing seafood dinner and a bottle (or two) of wine before flying
Glacier ruptureGlacier ruptureGlacier rupture

Several years ago the glacier "ruptured" at this ice bridge. We weren't so lucky (or unlucky) to see something like that!
to Mount Pleasant Airport in the Falkland Islands on December 19th. Coming soon to Chuck and Rach's Excellent Adventure.....penguins!!!


Additional photos below
Photos: 21, Displayed: 21


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Boating to the trailheadBoating to the trailhead
Boating to the trailhead

This photo gives an idea of scale. It is truly massive!
Little IceLittle Ice
Little Ice

These people are doing an hour on the ice while we did 3 hours.
Walking over a soft spotWalking over a soft spot
Walking over a soft spot

This was a very strange leap of faith for those of us who are used to walking on frozen lakes!
A helping handA helping hand
A helping hand

Chuck didn't need any help stepping across the big gaps....
CrevasseCrevasse
Crevasse

Lots of these crevasses had sounds of rushing water coming up from far below....
That's a big jump!That's a big jump!
That's a big jump!

I look a bit like an invalid in this photo but it was a big gap!
Rain rolling inRain rolling in
Rain rolling in

Luckily this cloud got caught in the mountains and never reached us
Amazing waterfallAmazing waterfall
Amazing waterfall

This waterfall was right over the trail and was chilling in the morning on our way up but refreshing on the way down! (Not as refreshing as the whiskey though!)


3rd January 2010

Wow
Third time I am trying to send so will do quickly. Amazing scenery. Weather just like here. Congratulations! I know you will be well suited and happy. Take care and love aunt Lee

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