Advertisement
Published: December 18th 2009
Our Irish Shadows
...they were smiling!Ireland: Counties Clare, Limerick, and Cork
Chuck subscribes to the travelzoo website. He receives weekly promotions of discounted airfare, hotel rates, entertainment, and travel packages. In July Chuck was notified of a travel package to Ireland through Sceptre Tours, I looked into it and loved the idea, we contacted our friends Andy and Patti (we will call her “Paddy” for this blog; seems fittingly funny), and within days our reservation was reserved and confirmed. (www.sceptretours.com) Five months later and we were leaving on a jet plane headed for the Emerald Isle.
The package we booked, with all taxes and fees, was $800 per person. Our package included airfare, vehicle, and 3 bedroom villa for one week. Our villa was situated on the grounds of Adare Manor Hotel and Golf Resort. (www.adaremanor.com) The villa, the manor, the grounds, the surrounding region was simply awesome. Everything was the best of the best; stunning, majestic, beautiful, historic. Simply and seriously awesome!
We arrived to Shannon Intl Airport, County Clare, Ireland the morning of Tuesday 08 December 2009. It was dark and brisk, but better, it was warmer than the weather we had left in Minnesota
and it was exciting to begin our adventure in a foreign land. There is something invigorating about being away from one’s home, distant from what is familiar, and immersed in the unknown.
We began at the Dan Dooley Car Rental. We opted for one driver, ME, and improved insurance coverage; you just never know! We received a quick driving lesson; STAY LEFT, and we were on our way.
Driving in unfamiliar territory is always a test of wits. Driving in Ireland for the first time tested my wits, my nerves, my patience, my - everything and all. The first day, SHIT was my most used word while driving. But, you become acclimated, accustomed, and you make your way through! Most importantly was to STAY LEFT. Also, driver sits on RIGHT side of vehicle and shifting was done with LEFT hand. Signage; although it was different, it was clear and sufficient. Roundabouts; if you become disoriented just keep going round till you figure out which way to go! Don’t be in a hurry. Remember it is a vacation and not a race. If you don’t care where you are, you cannot be lost!
We made it to our villa (again, awesome) and took a nap to adjust to the time change, then we walked around the grounds, went to the market for supplies (snacks and drinks), and for a few pints in Adare.
Adare is a village of approximately 2500 residents in County Limerick of Southwest Ireland. The village was charming and its people were welcoming and friendly. There were two markets, a handful of restaurants and shops (these seemed to close about sundown), green areas, historic structures, and a heritage center.
A note about prices; everything was more expensive than at home in the States. Typical meal was upwards of $15, wool sweaters were upwards of $90 adults and $30 kids, and jewelry was very pricey. For souvenirs there were the usual items selling for the usual prices; $10 T-shirts, $5 key-rings, magnets, and coffee cups.
Wednesday 09 December we drove to see the Cliffs of Moher, about an hour and a half drive from Adare. (www.cliffsofmoher.ie) Unfortunately the rain clouds arrived to the Cliffs about the same time as us. If you don’t like the weather in Ireland, wait around, it
may change! We looked around the shop, visited the site museum, had some coffee and cake, and then the clouds broke enough and the rain slowed enough for us to enjoy some magnificent views of and from the cliffs and O’Briens Tower. The Cliffs and O’Briens Tower, built in the 1800s, overlook the North Atlantic. The Cliffs stand nearly 700ft over the ocean below, stretch for five miles, and are among one of Irelands most visited sites. O’Briens Tower was actually constructed as an observation point for travelling tourists. Even in the wet and cold weather, we enjoyed our visit to and the views of Moher.
The next day we decided to visit Limerick City, which is approximately half an hour drive from Adare. Limerick City is the third-largest city in the Republic of Ireland with a population of just over 90,000 persons. Limerick is situated on the River Shannon and was first settled by the Vikings circa 900 AD as a base of attack against the surrounding areas. The Normans later redesigned and settled the city circa 1200 AD and built the now historic sites of King John’s Castle and St. Mary’s Cathedral. In addition to
the two sites, we toured the Hunt Museum, all located in the city center.
King John’s Castle was constructed circa 1200 as an Anglo-Norman fortification. Features of King John’s Castle include a medieval courtyard, towers, gatehouse, an active archaeological excavation as well as a completed and interpretive archaeological site, historical exhibits, and views of the River Shannon and Limerick City.
St. Mary’s Cathedral was founded during the 12th century. The cathedral is now the oldest building in Limerick used daily by members of the Church of Ireland. St. Mary’s features a historic cemetery, organ and misericords (carved oak seats constructed circa 1500 for members of the clergy) as well as an abundance of commemorative plaques, beautiful stained glass windows, statues, and carvings.
The Hunt Museum has on display a collection of approximately 2000 pieces of art and antiquity. The museum is housed in what was an 18th century Custom House. The collection features pieces ranging from the Stone Age through to the Modern Era including works by Picasso, Yeats, and Leonardo de Vinci.
Our day in Limerick concluded with a walk around the City Center looking at lighted
Blarney Castle
Blarney, County Cork Christmas decorations, and walking through local shops and stores.
Friday 11 December we made our way south to Blarney Castle and Woolen Mills. The two are located in County Cork, just outside of Cork City. The drive took us about two hours. Blarney Castle is situated on the River Martin in the Village of Blarney. (www.blarneycastle.ie) Blarney castle is the third structure to have been built on site. The first was a wooden structure built during the tenth century. The second, which was the first stone structure, was built circa 1200. The existing structure was built in 1446 by Cormac McCarthy.
Most people who travel to Blarney do so to kiss the Blarney Stone in order to receive the gift of eloquence. The Blarney Stone is located on an outer wall at the top of the structure and kissing this stone requires visitors to bend over backwards over the edge of the top of the castle, six stories up. To make it to the top of the castle and to the stone, visitors first walk through the interior of the castle climbing precarious spiral stairways made of stone. Once to the top there is
a walkway, of sorts, circling the battlement and castle walls. If a person has the slightest fear of heights, this will definitely result in weak knees, since the walkway is maybe two feet wide and straight down on either side. I decided to crouch down and look only forward as I made my way from one side to the other, which is actually the only option (one way up and one way down).
After surviving the castle-top battlement and precarious stairways adventure at Blarney Castle we went across the street to the Blarney Woolen Mills for a bit of lunch and shopping; this I can do with ease! (www.blarney.com) Blarney Woolen Mills offers visitors with an opportunity to purchase an assortment of Irish products, including woolen clothing and blankets, crystal, linen and lace, and of course Irish themed t-shirts, candies, and trinkets. In addition to the Blarney location, there are stores in Killarney, Dublin, Bunratty, and Tipperary. The selection was large, the prices were relatively reasonable, the merchandise was organized, and the staff were friendly and helpful; certainly a store worth visiting.
Saturday the 12th of December we decided to visit the sites in
Adare. The Tourist Office and Heritage Center is a great place to learn of places to go and things to do. We had obtained an Adare guidebook from the Adare Tourist Office. The guidebook listed the Adare manor house, two churches, two priories, a park, a bridge, a castle, and a friary as historic and cultural sites to visit.
The building of Adare Manor began with the construction of a family home by Mr. Thady Quin at the end of the seventeenth century. In 1832 the second Earl of Dunraven and great-great grandson to Mr. Thady Quin, incorporated some of the walls of the family home into the grand manor house which stands today. The manor is truly magnificent with ornate gardens, a trout stream frequented regularly by swans, a wide assortment of trees, massive fireplaces, chandeliers, and carved stone gargoyles and inscribed walls and parapets. The manor also features 52 chimneys (one for each week of the year) and 365 leaded glass windows (one for each day of the year). The manor house remained in the Dunraven family until the 1980s when it was sold and transformed into the beautiful resort hotel we admired during our
visit to Ireland.
Although we were not able to walk through all of the Adare religious buildings, at the very least, they were almost always in sight as a reminder of Irish history and heritage. Religious building styles ranged from simple and grandiose. During our visit we walked through the Trinitarian Priory, now the Roman Catholic Church. This building was constructed circa 1230 as a local base for Trinitarian Friars, who worked at converting locals to Catholicism. The monestary was suppressed by King Henry VIII in the 1500s as he sought control of the area and the spread of Anglicism. Three hundred years later the building was restored by the first Earl of Dunraven as a Roman Catholic parish church, which is how the building functions today.
Main Street Adare is home to many shops and pubs, which we frequented on many occasion during our trip. All of the shops were very charming. Paddy and I had a nice time, many times, walking through the shops looking at all of the merchandise for sale. Of course at the end of each day we all walked along Main Street Adare stopping off at O’Collins, Aunty
Lena’s, and Chawkes’ pubs for a few pints. It is thoroughly entertaining and insightful to sit and chat with locals while listening to a traditional setting of Irish Music or watching a game of Rugby.
The Saturday we were in Adare there was a Farmers Market taking place at the Village Hall. Like Farmers Markets of most places I’ve seen, local farmers and artisans gather together at a designated place to sell their goods and products. There were fresh veggies, jewelry, eggs, stew, baked goods, and handmade soaps. We decided to purchase eggs and veggies in order to make use of the kitchen in our villa by making breakfast for our last day in Ireland, the following morning. Whether at home or in Ireland, there is just nothing better than fresh farm raised food.
Our last day in Ireland was spent at Bunratty Castle and Folk Park. Bunratty was about three quarters of an hour drive from Adare. The castle is considered a large tower house and was built in 1425 by the MacNamara Clan. Over the years the building was destroyed in battle and subsequently rebuilt a number of times. The castle, as
one can see it today, was restored to its medieval state in 1954 and now houses a large collection of 15th and 16th century furnishings on display for viewing as visitors make their way through the castle rooms. The folk park is set on 26 acres and portrays 19th century life in both urban and rural Ireland. The park includes an assortment of traditional homes (ranging in style from lower to upper class dwellings), blacksmith shop, school, post office, doctors office and house, pawn shop, draper, hotel, water mills, and a pub. Period skills, traditions, and trades are practiced daily throughout the park bringing Irish history to life for visitors. Bunratty Castle and Folk Park was a great way to conclude our trip and should provide any visitor with a unique and in depth experience.
We were in Ireland for one week and we barely scratched the surface. We made our way through only parts of three counties (Clare, Limerick, and Cork). All of the places we visited were stunning, impressive, and beautiful. The people we met were friendly, welcoming, and equally beautiful. We enjoyed getting lost and we enjoyed finding our way. The weather was
Chuck, Leila, Paddy, Andy
Aunty Lena's Pub, Adare, County Limerick wet and cold, but it was warmer than at home and when the sun shined through the clouds it was all the more appreciated. Plus, without the cold wet weather we likely would not have enjoyed so many evenings in the local pubs. One great thing about only scratching the surface is that it provides ample reason to perhaps return.
All in all - we had a wonderful time in Ireland and would recommend the trip to anyone. We hope you enjoy our story and all of the images (there are many, so grab a pint and relax)!
Advertisement
Tot: 0.183s; Tpl: 0.024s; cc: 13; qc: 56; dbt: 0.0506s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb
Marmie
non-member comment
hats off to you
I love the hat! would you be my doorman?