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Published: March 2nd 2010
Oh yes, train travel in China; loved by some, hated by some. Of which the latter I would belong to.
I don't know what it is about train travel in China, but it just isn't my thing. Probably simply because of the lack of privacy, which would mean I wouldn't enjoy any hard sleeper of any train in any country...
Anyway, I discovered the wonders of the 'dining car'. Actually never sort of occurred to me before, but after re-reading one of my favourite writer's books (Paul Theroux) I remembered his idea's on the dining car, so decided to look for it. Of course full with 'officials' instead of actual train passengers, I ordered a lukewarm beer, or a few actually (not at the same time though) and read my book. A funny book, got it from a book store in Yangshuo at the last moment; Chinese take away, about the lives of a group of TEFL teachers in Singapore. Easy to relate to and well written, it got me through some of that awful long time I was going to be on this train.
Actually had a nice conversation with a Chinese gentleman though, his English was quite good.
He told me he was a doctor but had stopped doing his profession for reasons I don't want to describe too detailed here, in fear of this site being blocked... It sort of had to do with a certain 'organisation' this man joined a while ago, an organisation that the government doesn't really agree with.
Very interesting man though, and did have a nice chat.
When the watery, lukewarm beers stated taking effect, I went for my compartment.
One problem with Chinese trains: every bloody compartment looks the same! Now, every compartment does have a number, but then you would have to look at it and remember it to find your way back, wouldn't you?
I didn't, not that night at least. So it took a while to find my top bed assigned to me.... (lights go off at 23:00)
The next morning I woke up early, I believe it was 06:30 or so, and went straight back to my favourite place (now) on a Chinese train; the dining car. Bought myself one of these cup noodles you see them slurping out of and poured in boiled water from the nearest hot water kettle. Enjoyed my noodles and read some
more of my book, secretly thinking of hot coffee and and English breakfast.
The last hour before arriving in Wuhan, I crawled back up to 'level three' and had another nap, making the whole trip actually my best train trip in China so far. Stepping out onto the platform in the massive Wuhan station, (which one I don't know, most Chinese cities have more than one station, seeing they're all so huge. E.g.: Beijing now has five train stations...) I carried and rolled my belongings out and tried to find
a taxi that could take me to the only hostel in the city. Due to experience I now always ask the taxi driver if he REALLY knows the place where I'm asking him to drive to. When in the end it shows he actually didn't knew and so lied (like often happens), I get the excuse of being able to be angry at him and therefore refusing him to pay the full amount. Ha ha! Bloody taxi drivers! So, this guy takes me to the OPPOSITE side of the street where I need to be, AND 500 meters or so TOO far! Aaargh! Luckily I walked into a German staying
at the hostel that guided along the way. Tired and sore from carrying the luggage I took a single room in the very creatively decorated hostel. Next to the university of art, it might have been a project of the occupants at the time, I don't know really.
Well, I walked around, that I did... but in all honesty: I found the city a disappointment, a bore really.
Another huge Chinese city, looking exactly like any other Chinese city. I mean, yes there is a river, but at first sight I didn't find anything unusual that would give the city it's own character. I walked up to the
yellow crane tower which had a very steep entrance fee. From there the view was sort of nice, apart from the yellow glow hanging over the city. The pollution seemed overwhelming and constant looking at it from that vantage point. I had just come from a very beautiful and green place in the countryside, that also played a role in my disliking the city. I fell asleep on a bench in the park behind the tower and decided I was tired, unamused and ready for an early night.
The next
morning I had a pretty early flight to Beijing, and an onward connection to Hohhot.
Just after arrival in Hohhot I received some very sad news and had to fly back to Holland the next day.
Now I am missing a very dedicated viewer of my blogs...
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marietje
non-member comment
Joh!
Leuk verhaal en foto's! Tjoeh wat zul jij ontzettend benauwd geslapen hebben in die trein. Tjah er passen veel makke schapen in een hok. tut, tot snel