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Published: August 11th 2009
Jelsa lights emerging
God giving us a great show from our terrace.We left early in order to make the hour drive back to Spilt and catch the ferry to Hvar. We had pre-bought our ferry tickets but on close scrutiny realized that they were not for any particular boat so we wanted to make sure we would get our car on. The line-ups reminded us of the pandemonium on the docks of Athens but to a much lesser degree. After a couple of u-turns in the middle of traffic, we managed to get ourselves in the right line (we think) to get the 11am ferry to Hvar. The person that guided us into position (unbeknownst to us) was a squeegie guy in disguise. What we thought was amazing ferry service as our windows were being cleaned turned out to be a fee for service. Ah, well, you live and learn and we were supporting the local economy.
It was a beautiful 2 hr ferry ride out to the island. With 1,400 islands off the coast, we have begun to take for granted the incredible beauty of all that we are seeing around us. This has the feeling of the Whitsundy Islands in Australia or our own Gulf Islands (the big difference
Island Coves
One of many island coves that take your breath away. being the incredibly deep aqua marine blue colour and more importantly warmth of the water here). We had booked a place in Jelsa on the island and were not really sure how to get there (it had been booked through an agency and we didn’t have directions). We figured that Jelsa didn’t look that big so someone should be able to tell us. Marla again was left to the fact finding part and Trevor was required to look confidently European as he illegally parked pretty well everywhere. The post office managed to ring our guy and he came down to get us. We went through several iterations of (oh, we are a long ways from the town, oh, it will be a nice view, oh, it is a long walk to town) as we wove our way for 10 minutes from what we thought was the center of town. The trick is that the topography and layout of these towns is so difficult because they are perched high on cliffs. We finally arrived at our place and were again delighted to see the view and location of our palace for the next 4 days (it is tough because you book
Fortress Spanjol
View of the castle and accompanying walls from Hvar town. these places on the internet without a lot of knowledge of where you are going). We had trouble getting accommodation on Hvar because everyone wanted a minimum of 7 days. This is why we are away from the main area (Hvar town) or the port Stari Grad. It turns out we are delighted with our selection as this is a bit quieter (with nicer water access for the kids) while still having energy and life, with an active harbour.
Hvar island is known as the island of choice for many international jet setters. Part of the reason for this is a wonderful blend of history, beauty and climate. The island ienjoys 2724 hours of sunshine a year (more than anywhere else in Croatia) along with luxuriantly green hillsides that are filled with brilliant patches of lavender, rosemary and heather. The sunshine is such a selling point and so reliable that hotels give discounts for cloudy weather and refunds if it snows (apparently this happened in January 2005). During our self-paced driving tour of the island, we enjoyed the incredible 13th century castle overlooking Hvar town that served as a protective fortress. Hvar had been an ideally situated nesting place
Prisoners in the castle dungeon
Two of these prisoners have been sentenced to death, one is getting out tomorrow. You guess! for pirates with its myriad of protective and hidden coves and it wasn’t until the Venetians eventually cleared out the riff raff in the 1400’s that Hvar town was resettled with the castle and town truly taking shape. The present day city is situated on a beautiful curved, south facing bay looking out across the Adriatic dotted with islands on the horizon. Below the castle is the stereotypic cluster of orange tiled roofs surrounding the traffic-less marble streets that make this an attractive destination for Europe’s elite. The Connor’s were in agreement that our “little sister” town of Jelsa was much more suited to our liking and so we spent most of our island stay pretty close to home.
Croatia is such an interesting dichotomy of ancient and modern. Driving along crazy winding roads on this quaint idyllic island, we stumbled upon an incredibly modern 1.5 km long tunnel taking us under the crest of the island to Hvar town. The next day, we made our way back across the island in the other direction, driving through a town clinging to the hillside in which streets can barely handle one car (even the open sections of road require cars
Morning ritual
Morning coffee in the harbour. passing with a few feet to spare) and we run right into a kilometer long single lane tunnel (stop light alternates traffic) which looks like a couple of kids have dug it out of the mountain - jagged rock sticking out from all sides with the term claustrophobia taking on a new meaning. The game of holding your breath while in the tunnel saw all participants, including the driver, extended to the max before finally exiting. Out the other side of the tunnel, we were greeted with a spectacular west facing view of the Adriatic and multiple switchbacks taking us down the steep cliffs to sea level. Towns are astoundingly dotted all along the hillside in century old settlements. Our island explorations lasted only so long as the troops needed their daily playtime in the sandy cove that we discovered just minutes from our apartment. The whole bay was filled with people enjoying themselves in and out of the water with the major pastime being hitting a ball back and forth (with the palm of your hand) to each other in the shallow cove. The kids (and Trevor) are amazingly amused for hours with such simple activities and don’t seem
Skill supreme
Picture doesn't capture the speed of the wind and narrowness of the harbour but trust us, these guys were good. to need the excitement of a Jet-ski. We quickly caught on and purchased our own ball which has been a great investment occupying many hours of time. Marla meanwhile continues to find bliss floating around on her air mattress but did enjoy a bit of ball time.
A quick overview of the Connor happenings while enjoying the laid back island pace include:
Day 1: Parents go for long walk around the promenade (which reminded us of the Seawall) watching the sunset as night descends on the town of Jelsa. Kids survive on their own without internet through lots of backgammon and reading.
Day 2: Marla starts the daily ritual of getting up early, having coffee overlooking the sea and returning with fresh bread for a breakie of meat, cheese, and veggies on bread (a healthy dose of Nutella worked its way in as well). Marla notes that coffee is quite a treat on this trip compared to Turkey and Greece with 5 weeks of Nescafe. Here, people seem to put a very high priority on coffee, alcohol and cigarettes, and there are full cafes with people mingling at all hours of the day or night.
Days
Coastal village
One of the coastal towns hanging on the cliffs. 3 and 4: Spent exploring and on the sandy beach for the whole afternoon. Evenings cooked both nights at home (better than our last restaurant) and caught up with family and friends on internet. Enjoyed evening walks in town along the water including the array of home made wine vendors (where people bring their own plastic bottles to fill up from the kegs) as well as shops selling bottled oils and vinegar, lavender and other local wares- pure magic. The activity of the harbour never ceased to attract our interest. Watching several large boats under full sail in strong winds, manage to navigate their way through the narrow inlet into the harbour, was truly spectacular.
All in all, Jelsa on Hvar island was a incredible place to spend 5 days. We are sad to go but are ready to continue our voyage up the coast. Travel like this is the antithesis of home where we wear no watches, eat each meal as a family, and spend every day with no agenda letting the day unfold as it may.
Kids Corner:
Matthew: Loving every part of this, especially the sandy beach in Jelsa. Loving the lasagna and pizza here,
Jelsa town
Jelsa town as seen from our terrace. it beats not knowing what kind of meat you are eating. I miss everyone back home but the internet helps (when we have a connection).
Sydney: I am having a great time. We have laughed so much as a family and the water is so warm. Court and I can spend all day diving for sand and shells. Someone needs to tell those European men to stop wearing speedos (it is cute on the kids but ….). Let’s just leave it there.
Courtney: I finished my book and I need to let everyone know, YES!!!! We have had so many laughs on this trip, sometimes it hurts. Flat Stanley sure looked great on the air mattress. Oh yeah!!
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Alison
non-member comment
great...
So great to hear and see your wonderful holiday! You guys look like you are finding amazing places and having a terrific gift of a holiday. Our love to all of you. Al, Dave, Chris and Sandy.