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Published: July 27th 2009
Me and St. Peter's Square
The obelisk was stolen by Rome from Egypt and placed in the center of Nero's Circus. Many Christians were burned alive around this square during ancient times.Hi Everyone!
Today is my birthday, and I get to spend it in Rome! My hostel here used to be a convent, and in the courtyard I can hear an Italian diva giving a concert. Rome is a fascinating city on many levels. There is an unbelievable amount of history here. Rome is at the heart of the birth of western civilization as we know it. It is like one giant open air museum that people just happen to live in. Unfortunately, the weather here is torturous. The sun is baking temperature and I feel like I am playing hopscotch with any shade I can see. If this is what they call ‘dry’ heat I think it sucks. I think it would be more acceptable if Italians believed in air conditioning but apparently they see it as some sort of myth. Alot of businesses close down for the entire month of August and everyone takes a holiday. I can see why.
On Sunday I went to see the Vatican museum. (They don't have air conditioning either.) On the last Sunday of the month it is free. Anticipating the crowds I planned to arrive around 8am because they open at 9am. I
thought I would be one of the first people in line and I could see the Sistine Chapel and get out before the crowds got too bad. I think my plan might have worked if 2000 other people hadn’t had the same thought. When I arrived and hour early there was a line that stretched down four blocks. The museum is only open until 12:30 on free days and I wondered if I would even get in. Luckily the line moved quickly and I was able to get inside around 9:30am and I left around 11:30. There was still a line of people all the way down to where I had started. I have to say that it was worth battling the crowds to see the greatest artwork in the world (not to mention saving 13 Euro). I have seen pictures of the Sistine Chapel ceiling but I have to say that it was not what I expected. The room itself is rather cave like. There are only a few windows near the top of the ceiling and the chapel seems to be in the middle of the building. I think I expected the room to be bigger and perhaps
McDonalds
Classy McDonalds in the piazza Rubblica. decorated in an elaborate way to compliment the paintings, but it was not. Although I suppose that even if it was decorated beautifully no one would notice or remember.
After the Vatican museum I walked a few blocks to St. Peter’s Cathedral (Basilica di san Pietro). This church was designed by Michelangelo when he was 72. It put the crowning touch on his rich and varied career. In front of the cathedral is St. Peter’s Square (which is oval) designed by Bernini on the sight of Nero’s circus. This is where the apostle Peter was crucified up-side down. His remains were buried in a nearby cemetery and then dug up and moved to a crypt underneath the cathedral (although no one knows for sure if they moved the right bones). The square has 140 ten-foot statues of saints ringing the top.
The cathedral itself is magnificent, and more in keeping with what I thought the Sistine Chapel would look like. The dome soars 390 feet to the top. I wonder what Peter would have thought of someone building a massive building dedicated to him. They were holding mass while I was there so I didn’t get a close look at
Windows in the Sistine Chapel
Michelangelo was commissioned to do this project by Pope Julius II the alter. The pope gives mass here on certain days and times, heck he could have been leading the mass that I was ten yards from. I didn’t join the mass, partly because I am not Catholic and partly because I didn’t want to spend an unspecified amount of time listening to Italian.
What I really went to St. Peter’s to see was Michelangelo’s
Pieta. This statue was carved by Michelangelo when he was 24. It is the artist’s only signed work. He carved his name across Mary’s chest when he heard that people were attributing his work to another sculptor. The statue depicts Mary cradling Jesus’s body in her arms. Mary is disproportionately large compared to Jesus. If she stood up she would be seven feet tall. I really love her face; it’s devastated and yet serenely accepting. Unfortunately in 1972 some crazy guy attacked it with a hammer and now they have it behind glass. The best part of statues is being able to walk around them and appreciate their three dimensions. I am looking forward to seeing
David in Florence but I think this will remain my favorite Michelangelo sculpture.
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Bob Carlsen
non-member comment
A new subscriber
I was looking at blogs about Rome...my son is going to university there for two years starting one month from now. I read your previous entries and your plans for your trip around the world all from earnings from Walmart. Good for you! I can't think of a better way to spend your money...better than a new car! I like the way you write, with occasional philosophizing about te travel experience. I lived 18 years in Asia and 18 years in Europe and am a travelholic, so will enjoy traveling vicariously until my next trip.