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Published: February 19th 2006
Well I had a great adventure on Saturday and Sunday. I stored my gear at the lodge I'm staying at, packed my backpack and headed out for a tramp (Kiwi term for hiking). The Routeburn track is one of New Zealand's "Great Walks" and also where some of the "Lord of the Rings" was filmed.
I took the Tramper's bus to the trailhead and started off around 10am. I was pretty tired from the bike and hike from the day before and wasn't sure if I had the energy to hike 4 miles into camp and then another 8 miles Round trip to a view point.
The hike in was wonderful. I crossed a couple of suspension bridges as I followed the Routeburn river. The river was strewn with large grey white boulders and emerald green water. The forest was very much like a forest in the northwest but the plants are different. I hiked through large stands of beech trees. The path was lined with ferns and other small forest floor plants. It definitely had a mythical quality to it.
The well groomed trail steadily climbed up the river valley. I crossed the last suspension bridge before camp. I arrived at Routeburn Flats Hut and campground around noon. The hut and camp were 5 minutes off the trail. The campground was at the edge of a large flat meadow area with a stream that went up another valley. The grasses were golden colored with large mountains of treed hills surrounding the valley. At the head of the stream was a large distant glacier crested mountain. This was my camp view. I couldn't believe it. I set up camp right at the edge of the forest in case the weather turned. The trees would provide some protection. The camp has a covered eating area and a outhouse as well as picnic tables along the front of the camping area.
I set up my tent and then took a nap trying to muster up enough energy to hike up to Harris saddle which was another 2000ft up the valley. I awoke in an hour feeling rested and ready. Although I could have easily just hung out and rested I just couldn't miss the possibility of a 360 view of the surrounding peaks and possibly the Tasman Sea.
The hike was moderately steep up to the next hut called "Routeburn Falls Hut'. Talk about paradise. The hut is built on stilts. It has the feel of a treehouse perched on a steep hillside. It has 40 bunks, a kitchen, and bathrooms. To decadent for a backcountry hike. I had tried to book the huts for a through hike of 60km on the track but they were all booked which is why I was just doing the overnight hike. Anyway behind the camp was a rock climb past a series of beautiful waterfalls and deep pools. The terrain changed from deep forest to high alpine rock and plants. The trail became steeper and traversed over smooth rock up the river valley. Above the falls the river valley opened up into another relatively flat area. The trail traverses the side of the valley and crosses small streams, winds through beautiful native alpine grasses and flowers. The trail crossed under a stone arch made of two large stones that rested on each other and continued to climb. Every step was wonderful. It was so beautiful. The surrounding mountain peaks were jagged dark stone. I imagined castles and dragon's laires and I climbed.
The trail wound along the hillside. In some places it was perched on one rocky ledge with a cliff on oneside and very steep hillsides on the other. I finally came around to Harris Lake. Here was a scene from a fantasy novel. A small lake nestled between peaks to the north and the meadow to the south. At the northern end of the lake was a frame of jagged peaks with a 500 ft waterfall cascading down from the jagged peaks to the valley floor and flowing into the lake. It was breathtaking. I just had to stand there in awe for awhile taking it all in.
Then the trail wound above the west end of the lake and then climbed to the Harris saddle. From there I could look down the valley literally to my camp on the meadow floor. The view was stunning and boy I had climbed along way!
The saddle then drops down the other side a few feet to a shelter. Its just amazing how well built these structures are for backcountry huts. An israely couple arrived at the same time as I did. They were heading many more miles to the Mackenzie Hut further along the hike. It was cold at the top. The west side of the range was socked in with clouds so no view to the Tasman see but that was ok. I hunkered in the hut for awhile hoping the clouds would lift and I could hike up Conical Mountain for teh 360 degree view but it just wasn't going to happen. So after a snack I headed back out to meander back to camp.
On the way up I had passed a number of hikers including one of my fisherman rescuers, the Texan. Its funny how I've started to feel like a traveling community as I cross paths again with people I've talked to along the way. Anyway on the way back down there wasn't a soul. I felt like I had the whole valley to myself. I imagined elves and nomes, maybe a hobbit or two hiding and watching my passage. I took my time and photographed the surrounding terrain and native alpine plants. It was 5pm when I left and I had plenty of time until dark. It was nice to have relaxing walk after pushing hard to get to the saddle.
On this side of the mountains it was relatively warm and quiet so I didn't feel in a hurry to get warm or make it back to camp. I finally made it back to camp around 8pm. There was a small group of about 12 people congregating in the camp shelter. I went back and brough my dinner over and joined them. I sat with 4 young Israelis. I got asked where I was from and when they heard that I was from Seattle I got asked about the geat "Grunge" scene in Seattle. I can say I'm from Seattle in the USA and everyone I've talked to has heard of Seattle. Starbuck's Coffee, Microsoft, Adobe, Grunge are familiar associations with Seattle.
I had a great backpacker's meal of Chicken Tikka Marsala. The backpacker's meals are pretty good and they are light. Got to love that. It wasn't long after dinner that I was ready for sleep. I slipped into my sleeping bag with a view of the mountains as I closed my tired eyes.
The next day I hiked back out, caught the tramping bus to Glenorchy, the local town. There I had to wait 3 hours to catch the boat back to Kinloch Lodge so I looked around, had lunch at a cafe, and then headed down to the lake. I found a nice comfortable spot under a large tree by the lake and just relaxed until the boat came. The owner arrived with his two very cute kids. We waited for another couple and then headed across the lake. I had the rest of the day to relax. I finished up my trip itinarery, did some laundry and then sat in the hot tub for about an hour. It felt great to just relax.
I'm staying here today and relaxing then its back on the road tomorrow for a bus ride to Franz Joseph glacier for a some glacier hiking. So with that I'll sign off and go get some quality hang time in. Stay tuned for the next adventure. Glacier Climbing on the Franz Joseph glacier.
Backyard Adventure Girl
Lisa
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Laurel
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Grunge! Haven't heard that term for a while. Sounds like the vacation is proceeding smoothly. I repeat. I can hardly wait to see the pictures. Have fun.