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Published: June 20th 2009
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Entering an information centre is unusual for me. Not because I think I know everything but because they are useless and the people inside them generally know less than any tourist. But as I entered the centre, the first of 4 backpackers, I realised I didn’t even know where I was?
Amman, Jordan’s capital doesn’t have anything really mind boggling from its history so really one or two days is good enough before moving onto somewhere else. But there are some worthwhile day trips from here.
After Syria I couldn’t do anymore castles. So I did 2 day trips from here. The Dead Sea is the obvious option but that can be incorporated with 2 more sites. Mt Nebo (or Nemo I kept saying) and this other place (As I knew it at the time).
This ‘other place’ is where I entered the tourist information centre. The lady says, “How can I help you?” I go “Yeah… Ahhh….” Turn to the 3 others “… Ummm what is this place again? What’s supposed to be here?” The joys of no guide book and here say.
Turns out I was in Madaba south west of Amman and a popular tourist
stopover because of its Byzantine era mosaics. It’s a quite town and an alternative to stopping in Amman. The main attraction is St George’s Church & Mosaic Map. It’s a Greek Orthodox Church, which in 1884 unearthed a map on its floor showing major biblical sites. It’s said it was constructed in 560AD. Only 1/3rd of the map remains. Its significance is that it features Old Jerusalem in the middle.
Now for those of you playing at home and don’t know what a mosaic is. They are small stones of various colours put together to make a picture and when it’s done properly it looks impressive. The other mosaics around the church show incredible detail too. More like a painting from a distance.
From there it was Mt Nemo this is where Moses looked out towards the Promised Land. There are some mosaics to see here too but that was a breeze through and I went to a lookout. No one was there but me looking out to what I thought was Israel. A dry hilly landscape with some small villages in the distance, hardly appetising. Soon I realised I was at the wrong spot but it was
nice to have that brief moment of solidarity. At the tourist spot there’s a haze in the horizon, dry desert land and the Dead Sea. Hardly looking Promising.
After that it was down to the Dead Sea. I was with a Dutch couple and the guy said before we go in. “Well I suppose this has to be a once in a lifetime experience.” As you enter it feels salty and pasty but water all the same, a lean to one side and it’s an immediate float. I can’t float for shit so its nice to not struggle for once. It doesn’t take too long for cuts to show up on your body. Some I never knew existed. It’s also best to try and avoid contact with the face, as the taste is awful like a sour salty taste. It’s even worse when it gets into the eyes.
Floating along slowly falling asleep, a drip came from my hair cascading its way around my eye socket and into the inner corner of my eye. An excruciating 1-minute pain. It’s like Jean Claude Van Dam getting up after Chong Lee throws white powder into his eyes in the movie Bloodsport.
When we left I was so salted up my face felt like it was aging like Moses! Even two days later with my second wash of my hair, salt was getting into my eyes. Really, it is a once in a lifetime experience. I was going to be the Aussie larrikin and wear some floaties around my arms but couldn’t find any so maybe there is another time.
There was another ruined site - Jerash and unfortunately I had seen one too many ruins. It is probably the best example of the scale of an ancient city. With a Hippodrome (not as good as Lebanon’s) 2 Roman Theatres (not as good as Syria’s). I did however find a way to get in for free (not that I deliberately did it) but if you enter at the Jerash Festival office gate. Ask the guy where can I buy a ticket? He’ll point you to the Hippodrome area. When you get there you have had enough of the hot conditions and say to yourself “Well shit if they want my money they should make the office easier to find.” And enjoy the site.
Jerash was the same day I went
around Amman. In the afternoon towards sunset the Roman Theatre (yes another) is a great spot. It is the highlight of Amman city. It was just a shame that it was 3 theatres in a row. The next morning the citadel up on the hill provides a great view down to the theatre and the morning light shines on it best. The museum has some Dead Sea Scrolls on display but that’s all really.
Compared to Beirut and Lebanon in general, Amman had a calmness to it. The tempo of the city allowed you to go at your own pace at either side of the spectrum. On a rushed trip Amman can be missed yet all the above sites are all worthy of a visit. I would suggest doing the Israel side of the Dead Sea though. Much prettier, convenient enough public transport and the women there are hotter. So Amman really was a way to get to Israel.
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Wildebeast
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Amman
Love the new entry, tell me did you mean to type Mt Nemo in paragraph 6? If so, you are a comic genious!