Harbour city of mosques

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From Ankara, the capital city, we caught an overnight train to Istanbul where we have spent a few days admiring the harbour city. We stayed at a guesthouse in the old town which was adorned with Turkish and Persian carpets. The old town has a vibrant nightlife, which we participated in with our friends from our recently completed tour. Turkish wine is not as fine as the Aussie stuff, but it sure has the same kick!

The Blue and Aya Sophia mosques are huge buildings that really give an insight into the Islam religous beliefs. Islam is one of the 3 Abrahamic religions as are Judaism and Christianity. It is based on the belief of the One God and the guidance revealed by God to the prophets, including Abraham, Moses, Solomon, Jesus and Muhammad. Muslims prefer to use the Arabic name for God "Allah", because it has no plural or feminine association. We visited both mosques that are a major attraction of the city with their huge domes and painted interiors.

The Aya Sophia mosque was once a Christian church, when the crusaders had reigned over Constantinople, and there are many Christian Byzantine mosaics still appearing on the walls and ceilings adorning the mosque. There are images of Jesus and Mary with a few crosses marked as well. The building was altered with additions of towering spires that are typical of mosque architecture and large, golden and round Arabic Islamic signs hung around the inside of main part of the mosque. The building has been kept in great condition and is now a museum.

We went underground to have a look at an old cistern due to other people's recommendations. We found a huge cavern supported by pillars that contained water with large carp living in it. The Romans built it under the city and it is still in remarkable condition. The lighting made it eerily beautiful and at the end of the cavern at the base of two different pillars are the carved heads of Medusa - the women whose hair was made of snakes and whose stare would turn a human into stone. It is unclear why these heads are here and why they are on their sides.

It was fun to walk through the city's Grand Bazaar, which has become too commercial and expensive, and the spice market, which has many different spices and foods to buy. We stocked up on dried fruit, nuts and Turkish Delight during our visit. For lunch we hung out on the river eating mackrel burgers served off small, rocking boats that cooked up the fresh catch to customers who sat at mini tables to eat the cheap meal.

We have very much enjoyed our time in Istanbul and would recommend it as a city to visit if you are over this way.

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For those interested in learning more about Islam...

Muslims believe that Allah created the angels in a way that they cannot commit sins and have no gender. They have the belief that messengers and prophets were sent by Allah to all people. All prophets were human beings, who, as chosen examples for their people, committed no grave sin. Muslims accept Jesus as a prophet, believein his virgin birth and respect him very much. The Qur'an was revealed to the last prophet, Muhammad through the Archangel Gabriel. It is their holy book and the verses are never found to contradict modern science.

There are 5 pillars of Islam:

1. Shahada (testimony) - the declaration of faith where the faithful pronouce "There is no god but Allah, and Muhammad is the Messenger of Allah"

2. Salah (5 daily prayers) - Daily prayers are offered 5 times a day as duty towards Allah. Male Muslims are encouraged to perform their prayers in the mosque in congregation and the female Muslims are free to pray where it is most convenient (this was most likely due to their household duties back in old times).

3. Sawm (Fasting) - Ramadam is the fasting month where they abstain from food, drink, marital intercourse, evil intentions and desires from dawn to sunset. It teaches love, sincerity and devotion and helps the wealthy to understand the difficulties of those who suffer from hunger.

4. Zakah (Purification of wealth) - Material obligations apply to those who can afford it. Zakah is the annual payment of 2.5% of one's net savings and commercial assets held for a year as a religious duty and purification of one's wealth. The money is to be spent directly on poorer sections of the community in an attempt to get rid of inequality. Islam always encourages Muslims to share their material opportunities with those less fortunate, however the minimum is to give Zakah.

5. Hajj (Pilgrimage to Mecca) - This duty is to be performed once in a lifetime if one can afford it financially and physically.

The prophet Muhammad brought about many changes to his society. He was a champion for the equal rights of women, removing the husband's 'ownership' of the wife. He was a protector of orphans establishing proper treatment for them and he was also an environmentalist, teaching his followers to his followers to love and respect nature. He forbade the overloading of any beast of burden and he was concerned with social health and helped eliminate the use of alcohol, intoxicants, slavery and gambling.

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Photos

Christian Mosaics
Inside the Aya Sophia mosque

Inside the Blue Mosque
This mosque is still in use and a prayer session was occuring when we were there.

Cistern
Built by the Romans

Archways with columns in Cistern
Underground in Istanbul

Medusa Head
At base of column in Cistern

Comments

[Richard Huckett]

Lion's Milk
Hi RaeDan Have been following your peregrinations in the Middle East via John Boy with much interest. Many of your tour highlights very nostalgic for me. Well written and illustrated travelogue. Congratulations.. Sad to hear your comment about the wine in Istanbul because I went native and sloshed down the Raki. Loved it but learned what happens when you drink Lion's Milk. Turkish Saying correct. "From Lions to Lambs in too many glasses! All the best Richard.