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The snowcapped mountains and blue water and minus 2 degrees celcius! That is right people, we have made it from Buenos by plane, a much shorter journey of 3 hours ish to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the WORLD! A slight shock from the warmth of Buenos Aires but Brim and I came prepared with warm clothes and waterproofs 😊
At the Airport Brim was worried about me and swine flu questions, no coughing, sneezing allowed! Thankfully no questions asked except where were we staying in Ushuaia! The lady did not recognise it but the taxi driver (no buses from Airport in case you thought we were getting lazy) found it with no problem.
The hostel, Posada Costa Serena, was more of a B&B than a backpacker hostel but it was warm with fresh towels every day with just Brim and I sharing a room so could not really complain. Ushuaia is a mix of beautiful chalet type houses and frankly lots of graffatti and an alarming love of corrugated tin roofs however the backdrop of snow capped mountains and the Beagle Channel are wonderful. Not to mention the clear air and lack of pollution from a million city
Plane from Buenos to Ushuaia
she really shoudn´t sleep whilst I am awake with the camera :)buses too 😊 I know, I know, don't talk about buses!!
Anyhow, we spent a few days in Ushuaia altogether. I had my passport stamped with confirmation I had been to the southernmost city in the world and we even managed to post off some postcards...fingers crossed they make it from the edge 😊
On one day, we took a boat tour along the Beagle channel. The boat tour passed a number of small islands including seal and sea lion colonies. The bird island of nesting Cormorants was somewhat bare and the tour guide was a bit at a loss to explain why! Anyhow, the seals and sea lions by far were the best highlight. The captain (having obviously done this before) started turning the boat in 360 degree circles quite quickly to create a good set of waves behind us. The seals loved this and would jump in and out of the water just behind and to the side of the boat as we went around and around. It was really brilliant. The boat, because it was quite small (only a group of 9 of us with captain and tour guide) manged to get quite close to
the seal island and we could watch them all sunbathing and squabbling for good rock space in the sunshine 😊 I am not going to lie to you folks...as a day goes, it certainly beats working for a living 😊
On the way towards Bridges Island, the Captain, bless the dear man, even let me take the helm and steer the boat!!!!! NO, there were no Titanic moments and in fact I think he was quite impressed at my cool calm and sea leg like abilities 😊 Reaching Bridges Island we desembarked - oh how the nautical terms just come so easily to me now I have tasted life on the high seas 😊 - and with our guide had a very short walk on the Island. To be honest we only walked about 50 meters before the guide stopped us to tell us in great detail of the vegetation of the Island and the naked Aboriginal people who had lived on the Island when Darwin sailed that way all those moons ago. As part of the group on the boat was a father and daughter, the father seemed intent on asking alot of questions. He was intent on
finding out what the naked people did for rope and shelters. When he started asking about how sea-weed reproduced I was trying to keep from laughing out loud as Brim, under her breath to me, was getting a little bit inpatient with his questions! 😊 Anyway, a short walk onto the shore to look at shells and skim some rocks into the water (having dipped our fingers into the southern most waters...I forgot to film the bit where Brim stripped off and started to swim, sorry) we re-boarded our vessel and went back to the main shore.
The other main trip we did was to catch a bus to Torre del Feugo national park. Having asked at the tourist information we went to the bus station and waited. Just across the road some locals whistled and waved at us shouting "ride to park 50 pesos". We walked over and found out that they offered the bus service we had been waiting over the road for! oops. Anyhow, we asked the driver where he stopped in the park etc., he, in good humour, told us about different routes, times of bus return etc., when suddenly he said "look just give
me your money and I will give you the tickets, come on now". We handed over our cash and went with it - using his pen to make a note of the bus names and pick up locations. After a 30 minute journey or so we reach the park. The bus then, on, at times, sheet ice, makes its way into the park to drop us off at one of the lake areas. The weather, although cold, was not too bad with a bit of sunshine poking through the coldy skies. Having decided our routes we went a walking in the park. The trails were pretty good although some parts icy and the woods themselves pleasant although eerily quiet at times. In the whole time we were in the park we only saw 3 birds, a couple of ducks and a few bunnies! Alot of the trees were bare with winter and in our wanderings we couldn´t help but feel a bit sad at not seeing more animals. Anyhow, a beaver dam, peat bog formations later the rains started as we headed back along the road to get the bus. The icy road was not too bad, provided I walked
like a snail, poor Brim having to wait for me as I skidded along behind her! We stopped at the Black Lagoon - rubbish, as I think I exclaimed at the time and finally reached the bus. Having walked for 3 hours I was shattered Brim telling me we had actually only done 5 miles...felt more like 50 but really pleased we did it, although next time going to come at a time of year where we actually see some wildlife! 😊
Other highlights of our stay in Ushuaia include trying a sup of Cape Horn and Beagle beers. Most days we would frequent a bar called the "Invisible bar". It was quite nice with a homely fire and music playing in the background. However, on one night we went to a different place, cannot remember the name, and as we sat, the bar became busier and a man handed around a business card. A lady was setting up with a mic and lecturn and Brim and I thought she may sing or play some music...nope she started some kind of discussion or even political campaign speech, in Spanish. Brim and I were in the middle of the bar
and managed, after noticing the locals staring at us on a number of occassions, to esacpe before being asked a question or something!!
We left Ushuaia on Wednesday morning at 5am....yes, very early and arrived in El Calafate, (where I am typing this update) on midnight of the same day. At the Rio Gallegos bus station a stop along the route I watched the Barcelona and United game. Enough said.
Now in El Calafate and going to see a glacier tomorrow. Think I will need further layers!!! 😊
Please keep your messages and comments coming.
take care all, Bartoni one (aka chica - as the locals like to keep calling us) x
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Bartoni
Sharon Barton
I think we are in a country called Argentina
Ola Senorita, Thanks for the pins and for keeping your fingers crossed for the football the least said the better :). Currently in El Calafate but moving north today to Puerto Madryn. There are alot of Argentinan flags, pictures of Diego Maradonna and Eva Peron, for breakfast it is usually just bread and Dolce Leche, and everyone drives on the wrong side of the road...there are also alot of stray dogs here so we think we are still in Argentina but may in fact be heading to Wales as there is a Welsh village near Madryn! More updates soon. take care, Sxx