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Week 25 & 26 in Greece
Sat 25th April we intended to catch the train from Salonika to Athens but all the trains had been booked as had an the 10 am bus, so luckily they put on another bus at 11am and we got to Athens around 6pm. The bus stopped close to Omonia Metro Station, and you buy a 90 cent ticket to Pireas and follow the green line to the correct platform. The Pireas station is an old enclosed station one like those at Gare de Lyon. You walk out of the station to the wharf area and a free bus run by the port authority takes you around to the various ship berths and you get off at the desired one. The Hellenic Seaways ferry to Vathi, the main port for Samos, was still unloading trucks and car from Samos. So it took some time to get aboard. We left at around 8pm and got into Vathi at 6am. We had a cabin, so had a very comfortable sleep. We are past doing the sitting up trick all night. As it was so early when we got there, we walked around for a bit trying to find
Vathi's narrow streets
A good aerobic workout using the steps in these Vathi streets the hotel with Bill’s directions. We couldn’t, so rang the hotel and the lady came to pick us up. After dropping off our luggage, we walked down to the port to await Janice and Bill’s arrival from Turkey. Their ferry came in around 10am. Then we arranged a hire car- 30 Euro a day for the 4 days and Bill and Michael designated drivers, but as had driven in most European countries, Bill was the driver for the four days.
We drove to Pyrgos, a village in the centre of Samos to see Coula's relatives and took some photos of them and then headed to Pythagorion where we had a souvalki .There is a statue of Pythagorus at the port which incorporates the right angled triangle.
We had coffee at Karvovasi the other Samos port and circumnavigated the island back to Vathi. We had a meal in street behind the harbour frontage. Bill was ranking mousakas and had eaten five different ones in his time in Greece. Michael asked the waiter about the Greek blues music- rebetika, being played in the restaurant.
Hotel Diana had catering facilities so we could make cups of tea and prepare our own breakfast in
the courtyard at the rear of the hotel.
We bought some food for lunch at a supermarket and as it was Monday, when most Museums in Greece are closed, we drove out towards Pythagorion. Bill took a little movie of town square activities which involved the children sitting on a bench swing attached to a large tree which was to ward off evil spirits and a woman gave us some gelatinous soup for the same effect.
We had lunch sitting on lifesavers lookout on the beach at Ireon. We were the only people on the beach, as the beach café close by was still “getting ready for the season” which means a spring clean and getting out the café tables and chairs for the approaching summer. Hera Museum was also closed but we could see the famous column from outside the fenced enclosure.
We did some more sight seeing and ended up climbing up hills to village of Pagonda. This is was the birth place of Janice and Bill’s drycleaner from Williamstown. His wife said if they go to Greece, they must visit this village. The owner of the local cafe/bar appears to be local historian and initiated a “SOS
Pagonda” on the internet, as originally there were over a thousand people living there, but now less than 200. Most of the young people from the villages on Samos head for the larger cities or the mainland looking for work. Prior to having our hot chocolates, we had checked out where they crushed the olives and wandered around the village. We spoke to an older inhabitant who had lived in Sydney for seven years. He told Michael the call of home was too strong.
We returned to the hotel and then drove to Kokkari , about 10 km from Vathi where we had dinner in a restaurant on the beach. They had a fire going as the weather was pretty cool in the evening. There were also two cats and a dog in the restaurant. The restaurant gave us free dessert- a sweet glutinous milk slice. I think this was because we were good sports when the two cats jumped out from under the plastic wind shutters and scared the living daylights out Michael.
Gwen asked for an extra blanket at the hotel as the weather had turned a little cooler. We also used shutters which blocked out light
and noise, but as we were not near the main harbour street, it was not too noisy.
Gwen and Michael went to the archeological museum in Vathi. It is a great museum and showed how Samos was an important trading town thousands of years ago. We then drove to Manolates. This village was high in the hills, with natural water springs running by the roadside. We could see why the Germans like to come and buy up property here, as it is cool and forested. The main agricultural crop is grapes which are grown on the terrace hillsides, enclosed with low fences made from local rocks.
We utilized the main parking spot and set out to explore town on foot. There were some pottery and jewellery shops. Michael had a chat to an old man of the village while Bill climbed to a tavern at the top.
We took our packed lunch out and discovered we had left most of the food in the car! So change of plans meant we had an amazing lunch at this cliff top taverna.
We had what was on offer - Two sorts of meat balls, salad, chips, dolmadhes and tzatziki.
Huge pieces of
carrot cake cooked for tourists was our dessert.
We drove to Gagou beach, close to the town centre so Janice could say she has been in Aegean Sea , even if it was just dipping in her foot.
Then we drove up to a hill town called Mytilini . Getting out of car we noticed smoke. Bill had driven with the handbrake slightly on! We left it to cool and walked around town and had coffee and the car seemed not to have had any lasting damage.
Back in Pythagororio we saw the statue of Pythagorus and had lunch at a local restaurant. We had lamb cooked the way the partisans cooked it- called Kleftica and it was yummy.
Them to airport for the half hour flight to Athens. We left little "Mobster" (car) outside the airport gate. It was called that as its number plate started with MOB.
When we arrive in Athens, some train stations on the airport route were closed for renovation work and it took some time to arrive at Larissa Station, the main railway station for travel to Northern Greece. Our hotel is close to this train station and also close to Michael's cousin. We
Vines on Samos
The vines are kept low to the grown to reduce evaporation and to prevent wind damage met Ermina and Andreas and also their son’s girlfriend Irene.
Thursday 30th April was our tourist day in Athens. We saw Ancient Agora, Acropolis, Parthenon etc. Janice especially liked the changing of the guard ceremony. The guards were wearing their winter uniform. It is based on what the mountain fighters wore in War of Independence. There is a photo opportunity for the tourists, but if they get too close to the guard, he stamps his rifle beside him, as they must remain silent whilst on guard.
It was fairly warm and lots of tourists about. We walked around the old area of Plaka.
On our return to the hotel on crammed Metro at Monasteraki metro train, we had two robbery attempts. A woman put her hand into Bill’s pocket. Gwen had her bag slashed in 2 places, but nothing was stolen. Obviously these people have pickpocketing down to a fine art. Michael’s cousin later said to wait for the next train, if the metro is very crowded.
Tomorrow is a general strike and May Day so we were concerned about Janice and Bill getting out to the airport to fly back to Australia, as the trains and some buses were
not running.
We did not need to worry, as the taxi got to airport by 9.15am and flight was not until 13.15pm.
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Happy memories of Samos
I have just read your Samos entry, and it reminds us that we need to take the photos to Irene. Irene and her late husband George said "You have to go to Samos. It is the best Greek Island". We did not visit many - so not sure if this is true, but I prefer the traditional atmosphere rather than the touristy ones. Janice x