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Published: February 25th 2009
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Hello from Siem Reap!
We made it for the big 40th birthday and united two ancient relics for the occasion, Mitchy and the beautiful temple of Angkor Wat.
It took 6 hours on a bus from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap and our little natives were a bit restless for the first half but settled along the way. We had a stop at one of the larger towns about two thirds of the way for some lunch. We are getting a little less apprehensive about eating wherever we land and had a great meal at the rest stop. We are yet to brave any market stalls and I don't know that this will change but as the only time I have had food poisoning I gave it to myself perhaps I should have a go...
Siem Reap is about 20 minutes by tuk tuk (of course) to the temples. I had hoped that there would be a book called 'temples for dummies' but amongst the masses of book sellers and variety of books there was no such thing. As I understand it the temples were built as 'homes' for the immortal gods of the Hindus as well as Buddah.
The kings of the times would try to out do each previous temple and this culminated in Angkor Wat, the biggest of them all. The temples are between 900 and 1100 years old.
We spent the first evening at Angkor Wat and it is as spectacular as you expect. The sun set while we were there which was beautiful. We then had a tuk tuk drive through the forest in the dark back to Siem Reap, which was good preparation for the 05.30 start the next morning.
Our tuk tuk driver picked us up the next morning and took us to the base of a hill and we all walked up in the dark, the children were a little apprehensive as we could only really see by torch light at the beginning of the walk. Later Olivia said that it was her favourite part but that she had been worried about the bats. This was the one scenario I had not come up with so was glad she hadn't mentioned it on the walk as I may have been a bit apprehensive too!
The hill looks down onto Angkor but at a bit of a distance, there
are actually the remains of a temple, Phnom Bakheng, which we weren't expecting so we explored this while the sun came up. It is amazing that you are able to explore the temples so closely despite the fact that the protection of them is now a priority. In Australia we imagine that there would be an exorbitant fee, a strict tour regime, guards at every turn, and ropes and signs everywhere, maybe that is a good thing but it is great to wander around and explore at your leisure. Having said that it doesn't seem quite right that the kids are able to clamber on these ancient buildings which are over 1000 years old.
We decided as it was the big birthday we would treat ourselves to the balloon ride (tethered) near the temples, the kids acted as if it was something they did every day, not a sign of nerves! Unlike the American guy who we had to land for (after commencing the flight) to pick up and who then said 'what happens if the cable snaps?' The view was great, although it was a bit smoky at the time of the day that we went.
We
visited four temples, Angkor Wat, Phnom Bakheng, Bayon and Ta Prohm. Angkor Wat was our first and last visit, it is very majestic and the walk across the moat and along the bridge I think is the highlight, in no way is the inside less than spectacular but the walk in has the excitement and anticipation knowing that you are walking on sacred stones that lead to what is possibly the largest religious building in the world.
Our first temple after sunrise was Bayon, listed as the most ‘weird’ of all of the temples. It is the temple of faces and is spectacular in the way the faces are so huge and imposing but also so friendly. After this visit we were too exhausted to get out at the elephant terrace but looked like six exhausted, sweaty Australian tourists parked beside the terrace in the back of the tuk tuks.
By the time we got to Ta Prohm we were a little more invigorated and it was beautiful under the forest, this is the temple where the trees grow through and on top of the temple. It is also the scene of Tomb Raider with 'Angelina'. It was
Ta Prohm
"Tomb Raider" a beautiful temple where you see the majesty of humans and nature intertwined. We had aimed to beat the crowds to this one but it was more like elbow the other tourists out of the way to 'the spot' for a photo. We were slowed down for a few photo sessions involving us (we are getting quite used to being stopped for photos of us and the children!) and for Mac to be given a bag of Cambodian pancakes by a tourist guide, (quite delicious)!!
For our last stop it was back to Angkor Wat through the back which felt like a secretive entrance through the forest, lots of beautiful bird noises. We were all exhausted by this stage, the kids from their early start, walking, climbing and the heat, and mitchy and I from piggy backing two exhausted little boys and fending off two young girls! However as if by miracle as soon as the children saw the steps to Angkor Wat they were all off like a shot.
Lonely Planet says that it is sacrelige to only take one day at the Temples but I think that our one day was perfect. We would definitely
come again and spend longer using a guide when the kids are at a different stage.
Our present to Mitchy was a Mitchell family rewrite of a Miley Cyrus song performed at our hotel room, with all on vocals and Finn doing the hip hop intro. I think Mitchy loved it and there may have even been a tear or two (or a bit of dust?!) in his eye.
We ate that night at a café called the Khmer Kitchen which was great (more about that later!). And then headed back for a good nights sleep which Mitchy needs now that he is old!
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Sue Miller
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keep up the great blogs
hi guys, sounds like you are having a wonderful time!! Deb keep up with the blogs - they are very entertaining and loving the photos. lotsa luv to the kids and mitchy! Sue xxxxxx